If you’ve ever dreamed of waking up on a sailboat rocking gently on crystal-clear water in your own secluded Mediterranean cove, free to enjoy a quiet cup of coffee and a morning swim far from the hustle and bustle of overloaded cruise ships, you’re probably ready to charter a private sailboat in the Dalmatian Archipelago. As my family recently discovered, even if you’re not an experienced sailor or a celebrity awash in mega-yacht cash, a dream vacation sailing in Croatia is easier to take than you might think.
As my girls and I can attest, there is no more relaxing way to travel than by sailing on your own boat, especially if your destination has calm waters and ample options for mooring, anchoring, or tying up to waterfronts rather than in busy marinas. The Dalmatian Archipelago near Split has all of these, and within closer proximity than similar destinations like Greece, where you’ll spend more hours traveling between harbors. Even better, you can easily hire a skipper to do all of the sailing for you.
The Islands Near Split
The islands on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast are among the most scenic in the Mediterranean and have been used as backdrops for many popular films. (A recent Mamma Mia sequel, for example, was filmed in Vis.) Most who visit Croatia’s Adriatic Coast for the first time are reminded of Greece and fall in love with its sun-drenched rocky coasts and cliffs plunging into emerald and topaz waters.
Read More: 8 Beautiful Islands in Croatia That Are Ideal Destinations for Your Vacation
What to Expect Above the Waterline
Above the waterline, the Dalmatian Archipelago is sleepy compared to other parts of the Mediterranean. Most of its islands have been left natural and are only sparsely populated. Past the quiet shores of Šolta and the Pakleni Islands with their few signs of civilization other than old stone walls, you’ll find quaint seaside villages with cobbled harborside lanes like Vis and Stari Grad, along with a handful of bustling dining and party hubs like Hvar and Split.
So the Dalmatian Coast has plenty of options to let you mix several nights out on the town with relaxing days spent swimming and sunbathing.
Water Activities and Swimming
And you’ll certainly want to enjoy the water there. The clarity, plentitude of fish, and extra buoyancy provided by the Adriatic’s higher salt content make Croatia’s coast excellent for snorkeling, and on calm days in its coves, the water is perfect for paddleboarding as well. Although the region has relatively few sandy beaches, most visitors and locals swim and sun themselves either from rocky outcroppings or ledges carved into them, many of which are short walks from the waterfronts where you’ll tie up.
Split as Your Gateway
Split makes an ideal gateway to the region. A busy tourist stop for the cruise ships known for its seaside Roman palace and café-lined Riva (waterfront), Split has two marinas catering to pleasure craft, which also host charter companies who will provide all you need for your sailing vacation. The islands of Vis, Hvar, Brač, and Šolta are all less than a half day’s sail from Split.
Why Sailboat Travel Is Unique
Having previously explored Europe only in trains, hotels, and Vrbo rentals, my family quickly appreciated just how different traveling by sailboat can be during our weeklong charter this past June. Some of those nuances required flexibility that may be a challenge for some travelers.
For one, indoor living and storage space is at a premium on a sailboat. Even if you book a larger ship for fewer people as my family did, staterooms can be small, with most space taken up by a sleeping berth hardly large enough to comfortably accommodate two adults. Instead of a closet and dresser, you’ll likely have to make do with a storage locker with several small shelves and limited hanging space (although staterooms are typically lined with additional shelves).
Bathrooms, called heads, are often no bigger than a closet and often contain a toilet and shower in a single room. The open space in the center of the boat usually combines a small kitchen (called a galley) with a salon containing sofas for lounging and a table for dining.
Household appliances are also more limited than you have at home. Ovens, refrigerators, and stovetop ranges are smaller, and unless you’re docked at a waterfront with access to electricity, you’ll need to go without air conditioning at night. You likely won’t have a dishwasher or washing machine for clothes (although most marinas provide some access to laundry facilities).
Comfort and Connection Onboard
But we never felt stuck in pre-industrial era discomfort.
We had reliable wireless internet, even while at sea, and with ample electricity to repower portable devices, my daughter never had to reduce her daily screentime. Limits on interior space were more than offset by the spacious, shaded outdoor cockpit, where we preferred to eat our meals anyway. Bathing suits rinsed by our freshwater outdoor shower were hung overnight to dry in the breeze, and the fold-down transom was a perfect swimming platform and gangway to the waterfronts where we docked.
Even on nights moored offshore when we had to go without air conditioning, our boat had plenty of hatches (windows) allowing cool evening breezes to circulate below deck, which also had screens to keep out the occasional mosquito. And when tied up at shore beside other boats, our neighbors were always quiet.
A Typical Day Sailing in Croatia
Our first full day at sea offers a taste of what you can expect on a typical day on a week-long sailing charter from Split.
After arriving at the marina in Split and being taken by our charter company to shop for provisions at a local grocery store, we set sail in the early afternoon and spent about two hours cruising and jibing (once the wind cooperated) to the nearby island of Šolta.
The skipper we hired for the week booked a dinner reservation at Lero, a small restaurant nestled halfway up the cliffside in a secluded cove at Jorja Bay. The restaurant provided a handful of mooring balls for use only by its patrons, so several hours before sunset, we tied our bow to a mooring ball and our stern to a line running from a boulder on shore. We then pulled out the paddleboards and snorkeled for an hour, before showering and waiting for the restaurant to pick us up in its tender to take us to shore for one of the finest sunset dinners of our trip.
Exploring Seaside Villages
After a peaceful night sleeping at sea with only a handful of other sailboats moored nearby, we woke up late and had coffee and yogurt in the cockpit. After our skipper rose and made his own breakfast in the galley, we swam for two hours more before setting sail at noon for Vis. We reached Vis after a speedy but relaxing two-hour sail and tied up stern-first to the downtown Riva between other sailboats.
We then set off to explore Vis, strolling down its secluded cobblestone alleys among quiet shops and cafes with gelato in hand, before heading back to the ship to change into bathing suits for a quick dip at the nearby beach. Our skipper then booked us another dinner reservation in town, as well as a taxi to a nearby winery. We then enjoyed another wonderful dinner with our skipper and a sunset stroll on the Riva, before ending our night gazing at stars from the bow of our ship.
Each following day was a variation of the same, with each meal, town, and swim being more satisfying than the last.
Planning Your Croatia Charter
My family had an excellent experience with Sail Charter in Croatia, a family-run company that offers a variety of ships at different rental rates. With sailboats ranging in length from 37 to 57 feet, our family of three selected a Bavaria 46 and hired a skipper to join us for the week. (Sail Charter in Croatia also offers the option of hiring a hostess who also stays aboard the ship.) Our ship had four staterooms—including two in the bow that we chose to combine into a master cabin that my wife and daughter shared. The skipper and I each had our own aft staterooms, and each stateroom had its own head.
The fee for the one-week boat rental was €3,570.00 (about $4,050.00), which included taxes and a discount for booking early, but did not include the additional fee for our skipper (€1,540.00 (around $1,750.00), plus his well-earned tip). These costs also did not include marina fees, meal expenses, a small charge for renting our paddleboards, and the cost to refuel the boat with diesel after we returned (around €120 for the week).
These amounts also did not include airfare to Split or Uber transportation to and from the airport. Split has an excellent airport with connections to most European hubs, as well as three weekly flights to Newark in the United States. Getting from Split Airport to your marina or charter base is easier with professional airport transfers.
We were so glad we hired our skipper, Marino, who introduced us to Croatian culture and heritage and felt like a member of the family by the end of our trip. He not only handled all of the sailing, but chose our itinerary—for once, we did not have to plan any part of our trip beyond booking the charter. He also provided excellent docking, mooring, and restaurant recommendations—including secluded restaurants where we could moor for free so long as we dined at the host’s restaurant.
Need a hand planning your trip? Here are the sites and services we rely on most, from booking tools to travel products we love.
Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:
- Sun & Sand: A Guide to the 13 Best Beaches in Croatia
- 15 Surprising Facts About Croatia That Will Make You Want to Visit
Author Bio: Rob Rogers is an attorney and award-winning writer from Winter Garden, Florida and author of Finding My Way Home: Fighting Depression Backpacking in Central Florida. He also writes a blog, the “Central Florida Backpacking Desk Jockey”, and his articles have been featured in Outdoors Unlimited and on FloridaHikes.com. Links to Rob’s essays and other articles he has written about backpacking can be found on his website, https://RobRogersWriter.com
Want to discover more hidden gems and helpful travel tips? Join our free newsletter for the latest travel secrets and travel articles.
We are reader-supported and may earn a commission on purchases made through links in this article.
