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While most people explore Iceland by car or recreational vehicle, I recently boarded the Swan Hellenic Vega to circumnavigate the geologically active island. The 5-star expedition ship was designed to journey to faraway places and remote polar regions in style and comfort. On the 9-day Iceland in Depth cruise we visited ports of call that vehicles can’t reach because there are no roads.
Swan Hellenic Vega
Swan Hellenic adventure cruises incorporate elegant Scandinavian style in design. Functionality, simplicity and beautiful clean lines can be seen in the interior rooms. The colors schemes are warm understated elegance in each of the oceanview staterooms, balcony staterooms and luxury premium suites.
The SH Vega offers the latest in cruising technology with a PC5 ice-strengthened hull, and extra-large stabilizers. This makes the journey around the island and other expeditions smoother for passengers.
Pre-Cruise in Reykjavik
Since this particular cruise originates in Reykjavik, the capital and largest city on the coast of Iceland, we decided to arrive a day early. Staying at the Reykjavik Keflavik Airport Courtyard Hotel, we were welcomed by Swan Hellenic staff members at a table in the lobby to check passengers in. They also offered a shuttle bus to the epicenter of Reykjavik for guests to explore.
Iceland is known as one of the safest countries to visit, and is among the lowest in the world for crime and violence. Visitors feel very comfortable walking on the rainbow colored pedestrian street leading to Hallgrímskirkja, Iceland’s largest church. It’s one of the most iconic architecturally significant buildings on the island. Be sure to take the elevator and stairs up to the top for sweeping views of the city, sea and nearby hills.
Planning a last-minute trip to Iceland?
Top Experiences and Tours in Iceland:
- See the sights with a tour of Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon Including Admission & Kerid Volcanic Crater
- See glaciers on the Golden Circle & Glacier Snowmobiling Day Trip from Reykjavik
- Explore more with this tour of Northern Lights Yacht Cruise
Where to stay in Iceland:
- Find accommodation with Booking.com
- Find your dream apartment in Iceland with Agoda
- Find a hostel in Iceland with Hostelworld
Back in 2015, the city decided to paint part of the main pedestrian street in rainbow colors as a sign of acceptance and inclusivity. Throughout the cruise, we noticed other cities in Iceland have a rainbow street too.
Other sights to see in the city include the National and Saga museums offering insight to Iceland’s Viking history. We flew over Iceland with our feet dangling while on the immersive and multi-sensory FlyOver Iceland attraction. Participants view a large screen while being whisked away on a visual journey across the island.
Exemplifying the island’s volcanic activity is the geothermal Blue Lagoon spa. It’s located about one hour from the center of the city, but closer to visit from our hotel. Another geothermal experience closer to Reykjavik is Sky Lagoon where visitors can enjoy a relaxing soak and take in the beautiful scenery.
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Day 1: Boarding the SH Vega
As the 9-deck SH Vega set sail, 103 cruise passengers and 122 dedicated crew members became acquainted with each other. Our spacious cabin on the 5th deck had a king size bed fitted with luxury sheets. There were two puffy blue signature Swan Hellenic jackets for us to use while we were on the the cruise and to take home.
Each stateroom has a mini-refrigerator with a welcome bottle of champagne, sodas, and beers. There was also a welcome treat and snacks in the cabin. Since the ship can sail with a maximum of 158 guests, it never felt crowded, and we didn’t have to wait in any long lines.
On the third deck is a Muck Room where guests are fitted for waterproof boots to wear on the Zodiac boats and when hiking in muddy or rainy conditions. Each cabin receives a locker in this muck room to keep items when on an excursion.
The thoughtful dining crew takes care of guests’ needs in three different dining venues. Fine International wines and beers are included with each chef curated theme lunch and dinner. A grill near the pool deck encourages passengers to enjoy an al fresco meal.
There is also a library filled with research and reading materials, and a spa for hair, nail and massage treatments.
Before arriving in a port, passengers are called to the large lounge area and bar for highlights of the day and a briefing of the tour schedule. Swan Hellenic offers one complimentary excursion off the ship at each port, plus enhanced excursions for an additional fee.
Day 2: Dynjandi Waterfall
Reaching a calm fjord and bay, we gathered outside to admire the thundering Dynjandi Waterfalls. This is a popular stop for visitors driving along the waterfront to park and hike to the falls.
A Zodiac boat took us to land at what is known as the ‘Jewel of the Westfjords,’ This waterfall is one of Iceland’s most impressive with tumbling water cascading down 330 feet resembling a bridal veil. This remote region on the island is one of the most photographed spots. SH Vega’s expedition team members were waiting at different levels of the hike to take memorable photos on our cameras.
Dynjandi is a moderate 45 minute hike up along a narrow dirt pathway with steps along the way. Walking back to the zodiac landing, we noticed beautiful purple lupine flowers with Arctic Tern birds nesting on the ground. The Arctic Tern flies from Antarctica to Iceland each year during the summer months to nest and raise their chicks.
These sea birds are very protective of their nesting areas, and will screech in a high pitch and circle those who get nearby, often diving down to peck one’s head.
Read More: Hotel Húsafell, the Magical Northern Lights Hotel in Iceland
Day 3: Isafjordur
This stop was at a port where we could walk off the ship for a half-day of sightseeing. Isafjordur is the largest settlement in Westfjords with a population of around 2,600 people. Known for its fishing industry, there is a Maritime Museum housing some of the oldest buildings in Iceland.
Near the dock, we geared up to ride ATVs through the charming seaside town up old gravel roads to the top of a snow capped volcanic mountain. Coming down the mountain we witnessed beautiful views of the region, plus fields of lupine flowers and the picturesque Tungudalur waterfall.
Other excursions offered at this port included kayaking in the calm fjord to see whales, birds and other marine life.
Afterwards we boarded the ship for a lovely lunch as we cruised over to the private Vigur Island. This was also the day when a group of passengers decided to participate in the Arctic Plunge. With a tether attached to their bathing suit clad body, they jumped from the ship into the Arctic cold water for bragging rights to say they did it.
Vigur Island
Putting our weather gear on to ride on a zodiac boat to Vigur Island, we soon learned why this is one of the most beautiful spots in Iceland. The green oasis in the blue waters of the fjord Isafjaroardjup is teeming with bird life. There are no cars on this island, so the only way to visit is by boat, ferry or ship during the months of May to September.
Even though it’s the second-largest island in the area, it has a population of three people, and over 100,000 puffins. These adorable orange beak water birds breed in large colonies on the island’s coastal cliffs in crevices among rocks and in burrows in the soil.
Island Wildlife
Vigur Island is also home to 7,000 eider ducks that the farmer and his wife and 9 year old son collect. A mother’s eider duck’s down blankets a nest to keep her eggs safe and warm. It’s collected when the nest is empty to fill luxury down comforters.
This island has been the home of two families since 1884. Both are farmers who live mostly off what the island gives. They have a garden filled with rhubarb and other vegetables growing near the historic homes.
While taking a leisure walk led by the island’s owner we saw many eider nests with eggs, and mother eider ducks swimming close to the shoreline with their newly hatched ducklings. Other wildlife on the island includes a rare colony of black guillemots and razorbills
Iceland’s Oldest Windmill and Historic Homestead
Walking up to a windmill, we learned it’s Iceland’s oldest, and was built in 1840. This was used until 1917 for grinding imported wheat from Denmark. It’s been carefully maintained along with a 200-year old row boat, which is still used today to ferry sheep to the mainland.
The farmer, his wife and 9 year old son live in a 1862 Norway design wood house. In 1993, the house was restored by the National Museum of Iceland. The second house on the island was built by a young priest in 1884. There is also a mid-19th century cow shed that the farmer restored into a welcoming cafe and small shop for visitors to enjoy a cup of coffee and slice of rhubarb cake.
During the months of June and July, visitors have to carry a stick when walking around the island to protect their scalp from the nesting high-pitched Arctic Terns. After mid-August the birds leave to fly to Antarctica.
Day 4: Grimsey Island
Due to a change in wind and weather, the Captain deemed it unsafe to visit Grimsey Island. Instead we celebrated crossing the Arctic Circle with a lively outdoor party near the heated swimming pool.
King and Queen Neptune plus some other scalawags sang out “Kiss The Fish” as guests took a turn. It’s a Swan Hellenic tradition to kiss a fish and take a shot of alcohol when crossing the Arctic Circle.
Hrisey
In the afternoon we stopped near Hrisey and rode a zodiac into the small harbor. This small island in North Iceland is a ferry boat away from Akureyri. Hrisey has a small fishing village and a beautiful small church. One of the locals told us where the key was to unlock the front door and step inside to admire the craftsmanship.
The village also has a community swimming pool, small guesthouse, restaurant, and grocery store. Talking to another local, I learned that about 160 people live in Hrisey, and its rich in birdlife. To protect the birds, dogs and cats must be on a leash when they go outside. We walked along a loop trail to take in the fjord views.
Day 4/5: Akureyri
Setting sail for Akureyri, we arrived at 9 p.m., to experience Iceland’s Midnight Sun. The sun stays out into the early morning hours, so we walked around the coastline town exploring shops, the rainbow street and 1940 Akureyri Church up on the hill with stained-glass windows portraying scenes from Icelandic Christian history.
Nicknamed “Capital of Northern Iceland” it’s a popular visitors destination. Staying the night docked here, we boarded a luxury bus the next morning to visit the iconic Godafoss, also known as the “Waterfall of the Gods”. The name refers to an important historic event that happened in the year 1000.
There was a fight between the Christians and the pagan people. At the end of the fight, Christianity became the official religion of the country, and all the pagan icons of the Nordic gods were thrown into this waterfall.
On the way back to the ship we visited the Akureyri Botanical Garden founded in 1912. It’s a peaceful spot where every species of indigenous Iceland plants grow, as well as an extensive array of high-latitude and high-altitude plants from around the world that are maintained and thriving.
Whale watching is a common activity in Akureyri, as is driving to Namaskaro, a striking geothermal field full of mud-pots, steam vents and boiling springs.
Day 6: Seydisfjoudur
Arriving in the East Iceland port of Seydisfjoudur in the early morning, we boarded a 4 X 4 vehicle after breakfast and drove along the waterfront to Skalanes Nature Reserve. Stops along the way included a humpback whale sighting, and a farm that is now an archaeological dig site.
We learned that this area was discovered in 1998, when a team of archaeologists found a stave church and graveyard on a farmer’s land. Later while crossing a stream, we reached Skalanes farm and nature reserve. College students and other researchers stay here at various times throughout the year to collect research.
This unique private nature reserve is located on a once-abandoned farmstead. There is an incredible variety of flora, fauna and 40 different species of birds, including puffins. Holding sticks above our head to prevent a mad tern from pecking at our head, we walked single file on a narrow path through meadows of lupine to the end of the peninsula. Reindeer were spotted in the distance as we drove back into the quaint town.
There are 668 people living at the inner corner of a fjord of the same name. Once a trading center for herring, also known as “the silver of the sea”, this area is surrounded by snow capped mountains and waterfalls. Besides multi-colored wooden buildings, there is also a rainbow street in the center of town leading to a small church. Walking through town we followed a pathway up to a waterfall and took in the views of the area.
Day 7: Djupivogur
One of the oldest villages in Iceland, there is a certain charm to this east coast town of about 530 residents. As our ship docked in the harbor, we were led by a local resident on a walking tour to learn more about the culture and heritage from as early as the 16th century. At the port of Merry Bay, there is one of the most unique outdoor art exhibits – 34 enormous granite egg sculptures. Created by a local artist in honor of the 34 bird species that nest in the area.
We also entered “The Tank”, now an old cleaned out fish liver oil storage tank, that is an acoustical stage. Lit by candles, we sat in seats and listened to a local woman sing Icelandic songs. Her melodic voice reverberated off the walls inside the tank and sounded like a chorus o fmultiple singing voices.
Next we visited a stone and mineral collection shop to learn how the owner discovers agate, quartz and zeolite and cuts these local rocks and boulders in half to reveal the most beautiful design patters inside.
Day 8: Heimaey
Cruising to the Westman Islands just off the south coast of Iceland was one of our most favorite stops on the cruise. As part of an archipelago of 15 islands, Heimaey offers a unique experience visiting the ‘Pompei of the North.’ As the captain maneuvered in-between a narrow channel to the port, there were a multitude of guillemot birds flying overhead.
After lunch on the ship, we boarded a bus to learn how two-thirds of the town was buried in hot lava in 1973. The 5,000 year old volcano Eldfell erupted at 2 a.m., causing 5,000 people to safely evacuate to the mainland.
Visiting the museum Eldheimer, we learned all about the natural disaster and about the people who helped save the town and its people. Inside we received audio headsets to follow along a self guided tour of the museum, stopping to learn about the ruins of homes buried on that horrific morning. The resilient locals banded together to rebuild their homes and lives.
Back on the bus we also learned about the volcanic eruption ‘Surtsey’ in 1963, along the western part of the island. There is a famous “elephant rock” and other islands from this natural disaster. Tall cliffs near the town’s golf course are home to a multitude of puffin, fulmar and guillemot birds. Replicas of Icelandic turf houses made of timber structures with turf walls and turf roof. Turf houses were constructed in the 9th century.
Day 9 Reykjavik
Waking up we enjoyed a light breakfast, packed our bags and boarded a shuttle back to the airport to fly home. Swan Hellenic boutique ships make traveling around Iceland and other destinations around the world easy.
Guests unpack once, dine onboard, and enjoy learning more about each port from onboard historians, naturalists, meteorologists and biologists. One gains better insight about the island’s wildlife, history and geology. Kayaking excursions, hiking trips, and nature walks are all included in the cruise fare.
Besides Iceland, Swan Hellenic collaborates certain cruises experience with partnerships such as Chopra to offer Explore & Restore cruises. This transformative well-being program, immerses guests in holistic travel with daily yoga, journaling, meditation and cultural expeditions, crafted in collaboration with world-renowned pioneer Dr. Deepak Chopra.
What to Pack
Warm clothing and waterproof pants, hiking attire and shoes, a bathing suit, a knit cap, gloves and jacket. Swan Hellenic will give you two warm and waterproof jackets to wear. Be sure to pack sunscreen and sunglasses.
Read More: How to Pack Light for Any Length Trip Abroad
If You Go:
When exploring Iceland, be sure to allow a minimum of one week travel time. It’s best to go during the summer, even if it’s a busy time of the year, the days are long and the weather is at its best. Most of the Icelandic population can speak English, so you won’t have a problem communicating.
Visitors don’t have to tip in Iceland, however the cost of traveling around Iceland can be expensive. Islanders don’t accept dollars, so credit cards are the way to pay. Traveling around Iceland can easily cost $200 a day when you rent a car, pay for gas, find accommodations each day, pay for food and dine in restaurants, pay for entrance fees into different geothermal pools and attractions, it all adds up.
Since 2021, the Reykjanes Peninsula has been experiencing a surge in seismic activity and volcano eruptions. Before arriving in Iceland be sure to check the geological activity.
Stopover Iceland
Those flying across the Atlantic on Icelandair can stopover in Iceland without paying additional airfare. Travelers can stay in Iceland for one day up to one week with the Stopover Iceland promotion.
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Author Bio: Los Angeles-based Jill Weinlein writes about her travel experiences for Go World Travel and other newspapers, websites and Fodor’s Travel. Her areas of expertise include discovering new destinations, culinary reviews, cruising to exotic locales and family travel destinations. Some of Jill’s most memorable trips include riding in a hot air balloon over Napa Valley, zip-lining across a canyon on Catalina Island, climbing the steps at The Great Wall in China, riding a sled pulled by Alaskan sled dogs in Skagway, and attending a Dark Sky Party in Valentine, Nebraska.
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