Paradise With a Past: Discovering St. Croix’s Rich Colonial Heritage

St. Croix is one of the three U.S. Virgin Islands that were purchased from Denmark in 1917 for $25 million. St. Thomas, the most touristy of the islands, is home to the capital.

Over two-thirds of St. John is part of the Virgin Islands National Park. But St. Croix, the largest of the islands, boasts the most fascinating history.

Columbus landed here on his second voyage in 1493, and over the years, the island has been ruled by Spain, England, France, the Knights of Malta and Denmark.

The islands are located in the northeastern Caribbean Sea, east of Puerto Rico. St. Croix, the easternmost part of the U.S., is a three-hour flight from Miami, a 45-minute flight from Puerto Rico and just 25 minutes from St. Thomas.

There are small seaplanes that shuttle between the islands, as well as boats.

St. Croix has been battered by multiple hurricanes, with Hurricane Maria in 2017 being the most devastating.

I visited the island three times last year as a volunteer, and I fell in love with its laid-back lifestyle, friendly locals and beautiful, non-touristy atmosphere.

While unspoiled white-sand beaches surround the island, the interior is home to lush hills and rainforests. Abandoned sugar mills dot the landscape, and the two main towns—Christiansted and Frederiksted—are charming with their historical forts.

First Time in St. Croix

When I arrived at St. Croix’s airport for the first time, I was puzzled to see “Henry E. Rohlsen Airport” instead of the “Alexander Hamilton Airport” listed on my ticket.

A quick search revealed that in 1996, the legislature renamed the airport to honor Henry E. Rohlsen, a St. Croix native and Tuskegee Airman from World War II.

While I knew Alexander Hamilton had Caribbean roots, I hadn’t realized his deep connection to St. Croix. Intrigued, I explored his early years here.

Hamilton’s Early Life on St. Croix

Born on January 11, 1755, in Nevis, Alexander Hamilton moved to St. Croix around 1765. At the time, the island was a hub for sugar and cotton plantations, relying heavily on enslaved African labor.

St. Croix’s history is complex. The island changed hands among various European powers before Denmark’s West India Company purchased it in 1733.

Rachel Lavien and Young Hamilton’s Struggles

Hamilton’s mother, Rachel Faucette Lavien, fled an abusive marriage and later met James Hamilton, Alexander’s father.

The family moved to St. Croix, but James abandoned them in 1766. Rachel opened a small store on Company Street to support her children.

In 1768, both Rachel and Alexander contracted yellow fever; she died, leaving Alexander orphaned at just thirteen.

Separated from his brother, Alexander became a clerk at Beekman and Cruger, an import-export firm. His intelligence and diligence led him to manage the business during the owner’s absence.

In 1772, he wrote an essay about a hurricane that impressed local benefactors, who funded his education in the American colonies.

Hamilton’s Legacy and St. Croix Today

In America, Hamilton became a pivotal figure in shaping the nation, serving as George Washington’s aide, a delegate at the Constitutional Convention, co-author of The Federalist Papers, and the first Secretary of the Treasury.

Despite his ties to St. Croix, the island lacks official markers commemorating his presence. However, visitors can explore a few key sites linked to his youth:

• Christiansted Wharf: The bustling port where Hamilton arrived and later departed for America.
• Company Street: The location of his mother’s store and their residence.
• Beekman and Cruger Building: Where Hamilton worked as a clerk, laying the foundation for his future in commerce.

While no dedicated museums or tours focus solely on Hamilton’s early life, these sites provide a tangible connection to his formative years on St. Croix.

Hamilton’s enduring legacy on St. Croix is subtle yet profound. Walking the same streets he once did provides a unique perspective on the challenges he overcame in shaping the foundation of a nation.

St Croix Tours & Excursions

Other Things to See and Do in St. Croix

Columbus Landing

Christopher Columbus was the first European to land on St. Croix in 1493 and named the island. His landing site, located on the north side of the island, features a plaque commemorating the event.

Rum Distilleries and Sugar Mill Ruins

More than 200 sugar plantations once dominated St. Croix. Many of their ruins can still be seen around the island. Some have been restored, while others remain abandoned, providing a glimpse into the island’s past.

St. Croix is also home to two rum distilleries: Cruzan and Captain Morgan. Both offer guided tours, complete with tastings. I toured the Cruzan Rum distillery and was fascinated by the island’s sugar plantation and rum history.

Snorkeling, Scuba Diving, and Kayaking

Cane Bay Beach, on the north side of the island near Christiansted, is renowned for its excellent snorkeling and scuba diving. Kayaking is popular at the Salt River Bay National Historic Park, which also boasts one of the few bioluminescent bays in the world.

Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge

Located on the island’s western end, Sandy Point is a nesting habitat for endangered sea turtles. The beach is closed from April to September for the nesting season, but it remains one of the most beautiful white-sand beaches in the Caribbean. The last scene of The Shawshank Redemption was filmed here.

Christiansted Fort

A national historic site, the beautiful fort offers tours. It is where Alexander Hamilton’s
Mother was jailed for abandoning her first husband.

Point Udall

It’s the easternmost point in the U.S. and has a large sundial and beautiful views of the rolling green hills, the ocean, and Buck Island. It’s a scenic 30-minute drive from Christiansted.

Hiking

Hiking is a great way to explore St. Croix’s natural beauty. The rainforests on the island’s western side are stunning. Popular hikes include the historic Hams Bluff Lighthouse and the tide pools at Annaly Bay. Just remember to bring plenty of water and sunscreen.

Buck Island

Buck Island, a U.S. National Monument, is an uninhabited island just two miles north of St. Croix. Accessible by boat, it’s surrounded by a coral reef and offers exceptional snorkeling and diving opportunities, as well as one of only three underwater trails in the U.S.

If You Go

• Renting a car is essential for getting around. St. Croix is the only place in the U.S. where you drive on the left, so be cautious. The island’s narrow roads wind through hills and dense forests, which can be challenging, but traffic is minimal.

• The weather is warm and humid year-round, but the cooler months (November to February) are the most popular times to visit, despite the higher number of tourists. Be prepared for rain, as it can occur at any time.

• There are several resorts along the northern shore offering plenty of amenities, including golf courses. Christiansted also has several hotels to choose from.

• The Christiansted boardwalk features several restaurants where locals gather in the evening. For great food and views, check out AMA at Cane Bay or Duggan’s Reef. For a more authentic local experience, head inland for Caribbean food.

Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:

• A Dozen Sporty Adventures in the U.S. Virgin Islands
• Island Fun: A Guide to the Top 15 Island Adventures in St. John, USVI

Author Bio: Sam Sarkar is a semi-retired physician who would rather travel, write, cook and eat. His work has been published in the LA Times, Medical Economics, Physician’s Money Digest, LA Physician, GoNomad, GoWorldTravel and other magazines. He has traveled to over 55 countries and is working on his bucket-list travel destinations. You can read more of his writing on his blog: Travels With Dr Sam. When not on the move, he lives in Long Beach, California.

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