Malta – A Jewel of the Mediterranean With a Distinctly English Flavour

I recently spent a few days in Malta, where my Mum was born and spent the first eighteen years of her life. I had spent a month there as a six-year-old but I have no real memory of it.

On another occasion, I spent a Sunday afternoon there in 2019 as a cruise port. It was boiling hot that day, and everything was shut, so it wasn’t the best experience. However, cruising into port with the golden fortress shimmering atop the azure seas is one of my best cruising memories.

This time, I had four days to explore. What did I find? A jewel of the Mediterranean with a distinctly English flavour.

Mum had always told me that they learnt English at school and that the Maltese people felt a real connection to the English Royal Family. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip lived in Malta between 1949 and 1951 when Philip was stationed there as a Naval Officer before she ascended the English throne.

I did not realise, however, how English Malta is until I went there. Everyone spoke perfect English, all the signage was in dual Maltese and English and there were hordes of UK tourists.

Honey-Coloured Valletta

We arrived in the early morning hours, so we were keen to explore the next day. Staying in Valletta was a real plus. The stone streets were full of shops, eateries and people. It was lively and pretty. Beware, though, it is hilly and the stone paths are slippery.

We had seen some of the stone fortifications a few years ago from the cruise ship, but close up, they are incredibly impressive. Tall and commanding.

A highlight of any trip to Valletta is the daily, ceremonial firing of the cannonball. It happens at 12 noon and 4 pm Monday through Saturday at the Saluting Battery. The cannon saluting started centuries ago but faded away until 2004 when the cannons were restored.

It is free to watch, but for just EUR3 (yes, that is not a typo), you are able to stand beside the cannons and listen to an explanation by the person firing the cannon and have a tour afterward. All in perfect English.

If you want a good view of the cannons being fired, pay EUR3. If you don’t intend to pay, arrive early as crowds gather in the Upper Barrakka Gardens overlooking the Saluting Battery. A good viewpoint becomes hard to find.

Our tour guide, Lukin, had the honour of firing the cannons the day we went, and he was an incredibly enthusiastic guide. After explaining the cannon firing process and watching the cannon firing itself (a very loud and unique experience), Lukin gave our small group a concise Maltese history lesson.

History of Malta

He concentrated on the period from the French Napoleon Occupation (referred to as “the French weekend” as it only lasted two years from 1798 to 1800) through to the British Empire (1814 to 1964) to Independence (1964) to becoming a Republic (1974) and now, becoming part of the European Union (2004).

Lukin also mentioned the heavy bombing that Malta endured in WWII. In 1942, King George VI awarded the George Cross to “The Island Fortress of Malta (for its) heroism and devotion.” President Franklin Roosevelt gave a speech lauding Malta’s bravery in 1943. Plaques record both speeches in the main square in Valletta.

Best Malta Tours & Excursions

A Small City With Big Sights

There is plenty more to see in the tiny 0.24 square mile (0.61 square kilometres) town of Valletta – the smallest capital city in the European Union. St John’s Co-Cathedral is not to be missed. Also, the EUR15 admission price includes an excellent audio guide and an amazing Caravaggio multimedia exhibition.

The facade of St John’s is austere and fortress-like. Inside, it was simple for the first hundred years. Then, it was richly decorated. I don’t believe that there is a square inch inside that is not decorated.

Décor includes marble tombstones all over the floor and an abundance of gold with heavy-looking, silver candelabras on every altar. It is an amazing spectacle, and the audio guide will provide as much detail about the main church and the side chapels as you want to hear.

Caravaggio’s famous painting, “The Beheading of St John the Baptist,” is inside the Church and well worth seeing. Go upstairs and the multimedia exhibition about Caravaggio’s work will enthrall anyone.

Sensory overload continues at the Grand Masters’ Palace, which, since 2018, has been extensively renovated. There is a huge armoury display there. If you don’t have time or budget to see both St John’s and the Grand Masters’ Palace, my pick is St John’s.

Order of St John

Next door is the free Bibliotheca (Library). This beautiful, grand building was completed in 1796 and built to house the collections of books and valuables belonging to the Order of St John. No photos are allowed.

I must confess that I knew nothing of the Order of St John before visiting Malta. A good overview is found by watching “The Malta Experience.” This forty-five-minute show costs EUR15 or EUR20 with a guided tour of La Sacra Infermeria (the Holy Infirmary of the Knights of St John).

The movie (in multiple languages through headphones) was excellent, documenting 7,000 years of the history of Malta through to WWII. There was a particular focus on the bombing and suffering during WWII, which was quite moving.

Again, Mum had told stories throughout my childhood of her family’s suffering during WWII and of harsh food rationing after the war, so it hit home for me.

After the movie, our guide, Anna, led an excellent tour (in perfect English, of course) of “La Sacra Infermeria.” Now a Convention Centre, the building was originally a hospital. Founded by the Order of St John to care for the sick, the hospital was built in 1574.

It was the most revolutionary hospital in Europe. If the patients were wealthy, they paid for their own care and had a toilet allocated to each person. If they were poor, they were cared for on another level and shared one toilet between four patients.

New treatments were invented at La Sacra Infermeria. For example, the use of honey to treat wounds (it worked as an antibiotic). Also, to prevent the spread of bacteria, food was served on silver plates. The main ward, known as the Great Ward, at 508 feet (155 metres), was once the longest in Europe.

A Boating Day Trip – Swimming and a Visit to Gozo

I booked a boat trip via GetYour Guide. It was a steal at EUR30. The boat called “SEA Odyssey” left from St Paul’s Bay. The first stop was Crystal Lagoon, followed by Gozo, then the Blue Lagoon.

The boat had a slide from the top deck straight into the crystal clear, azure water. It was hot – about 95°F (35 °C), and the water was refreshing. I found the Blue Lagoon too crowded, but I loved Crystal Lagoon.

I also loved the three-hour stop at Gozo. For an extra EUR5pp, the boat organised a return shuttle bus to La Citadella (the Citadel) – a stone fortress sitting atop a hill. La Citadella is amazing to explore (although it was very hot) and we had lunch and a drink there to revive.

Mdina

We took an Uber to Mdina. Once known as the Silent City, it is probably more famous now as the filming location for King’s Landing in “Game of Thrones.” The stone fortress, situated high on a hill, is magnificent. Narrow winding streets were deliberately built to make it hard for arrows and invaders on horseback.

Another audiovisual experience (in 3D this time), the “Mdina Experience”, brought Mdina to life (and it was airconditioned inside.) Combined with “Knights of Malta,” a wax model display and accompanying commentary, it was incredibly good value at EUR11.50.

I found my mum’s old high school, St Theresa’s Grammar School, which was converted into the Archives Office in the 1970s. By the magic of modern communications, I was able to send her a video of what I was seeing, and she was able to direct me to the right building. All in real-time with me in Mdina and her in Melbourne, Australia.

The Mdina Cathedral is very ornate and the adjacent museum holds lots of silver chalices and candelabras. There is also a room of Albrecht Dürer’s woodcuts and copper plates.

There were a lot of tourists in Mdina, but it seemed much busier in the morning. I wasn’t sure why, but it did heat up more and more as the day progressed, so that may have been the reason.

Malta – A Country of Contrasts

There are so many contrasts in Malta. Here are just a few:

There are ancient fortifications in every direction as well as superyachts in every direction (seriously, I have never seen so many.)

As I previously mentioned, there is English influence everywhere – from the red phone boxes to the red post boxes to the signs. It feels quite odd to be in the middle of the Mediterranean yet have locals speaking to you with English accents.

Where to Stay in Malta

We stayed at The Hotel Excelsior. It is enormous and, although dated and tired, it has a large pool and lounge area and a private beach area with ladders into the sea. The location was superb, being only a short walk into the heart of Valletta.

For us, the pool and beach were masterstrokes. We visited in June and the heat was intense (goodness knows what July and August are like.) After a few hours of sightseeing in the heat, it was heavenly to go back to the pool, shade and beach.

The hotel also has a restaurant on the beach and we had dinner there every night. It wasn’t the most authentic food experience, but eating dinner whilst watching the sun set over the fortifications as superyacht after superyacht sailed into the Marina was a unique show.

Malta At a Glance

• Malta has three official languages – Maltese, Maltese Sign Language and English.

• Maltese drive on the left (a remnant of the British occupation).

• Malta is part of the European Union and the official currency is the Euro.

• Don’t leave Malta without trying a Pastizzi. This is a traditional, savoury pastry with a filling. My favourite filling is ricotta cheese.

• You can use Uber, Bolt, or taxis in Malta.

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Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:

• A Guide to Valletta, Malta: Where to Stay, Eat, Drink and Shop in Valletta
• Malta’s Top 13 Experiences: From Timeless Temples to Coastal Charm

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