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There is a sense of languorous timelessness as our golden-roofed houseboat eases through the longest lake in India – Lake Vembanad. The muddy silver-blue waters are punctuated occasionally by clumps of modestly coloured hyacinth or the more striking fuscia coloured lilies that nod gently as a cool wind shimmers through the lake.
The somnolence is also reflected in the countless coconut trees lining the backwaters that snooze, dip and awake again. Cormorants and darter birds sun themselves with their spreadeagled wings. Meanwhile, sacred kingfishers, little egrets and green bee-eaters are spotted in abundance in the largesse of the lake.
This is backwater country in Kerala, where the waters are a quintessential part of everyday life. A simple boat ride has the ability to wring out every crease of tension within you as you gaze through expansive waters fringed with greenery.
Where is Kerala and What Are the Backwaters?
Kerala is located at the southernmost edge of India. It has been a cultural hotpot for centuries, being a trading centre wedged between Arabia and Europe to the west and southeast Asia and China to the east.
It was here in Kerala that history was written when Vasco da Gama landed in Calicut. Vasco discovered the first route around Africa to the east, commencing a Portuguese foothold, which then snowballed to lead all other European colonisations of the east.
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Today, a lot of that history is richly reflected in the veneer of Kerala, which has an extraordinary cuisine laced with spices, strikingly colourful dances and extraordinary (and perhaps the richest) temples of the world. There is an amazing religious diversity bedecked with traditions that came along with the trade winds of millennia.
The backwaters – quite unique to Kerala – are a series of lagoons, lakes, canals and riparian systems that run parallel to the Arabian Sea and straddle almost half the coastline of the state.
The extremely fecund ecosystem balances freshwater from the hinterlands with brackish waters of the sea and there are three designated Ramsar wetland sites (Ashtamudi, Vembanad, Sasthamkotta Lakes). this combination makes the backwaters a very placid and rejuvenating locale to explore the enthralling customs and cultures of Kerala.
Kochi (also known as Cochin) – Where It All Begins
The easiest way to access Kerala’s backwaters is Kochi, the commercial capital city and financial epicenter of Kerala, which is connected through international flights. Kochi is located on the very north of Lake Vembanad and provides easy and multiple options to sail on these waters.
The biggest attractions here are the gigantic Chinese fishing nets. They look like giant netted hammocks strung over bamboo or wooden poles with excellent levering systems to fish the waters.
Legends have it that these nets were introduced by Chinese explorer Zheng He in the 15th Century during the era of the Ming Dynasty (before China terminated its naval operations and focused inland entirely) as he journeyed with a vast armada all the way to Kochi.
Backwaters aside, there is a lot of history to explore in Kochi, which was interchanged multiple times across Portuguese, Dutch, British and native rulers. The city’s chequered past is evident in its Dutch Cemetery, at Mattancherry Palace and in the antiquated streets of the Jewish Quarters.
Plus, there is the Portuguese Church of Saint Francis, which is considered the oldest European Church in India. Vasco da Gama was once buried before his remains were relocated to Lisbon at Jeronimo’s Monastery.
A Living Museum
As you explore these lanes and by-lanes of Fort Kochi – the heart of the city strewn with history – you will appreciate how the city is actually guised as a living and breathing museum with so much to explore.
Today, Kochi (Cochin) has grown into a large metropolis. Outside Fort Kochi are multiple museums showcasing Kerala’s culture. These include the Kerala Museum, the Folklore Museum, the Naval Maritime Museum, the Hill Palace Museum, and the Catholic Art Museum, among others.
Another must-do here is to attend a Kathakali Dance. Here, one will be mesmerized by the vibrantly colored masked décor and facial movements of what is perhaps the most arresting of Indian dances.
Alleppey – Bucolic Bliss
Kochi is a bustling cosmopolitan city. Therefore, to enjoy the rural beauty of Kerala, one needs to head further south. Alleppey or Alappuzha are often considered the most scenic backwater destinations of Kerala.
It is here you can easily hire a large houseboat and stay for nights in the heart of Vembanad while marvelling at countless churches, temples and mosques beside extensive paddy fields.
Once used to carry rice, these large and grandiose houseboats have today become the emblem of backwater tourism, receiving a fresh lease of life while retaining rural Keralite culture.
You can also foray in a small canoe or a moderately sized shikara across the many canals and waterways spewing out of Lake Vembanad while appreciating why Alleppey is often considered the ‘Venice of the East.’
Alleppey is also popular for its golden beach, its picturesque lighthouse, elephant camp and the snake boat races unique to Kerala.
Kumarakom – The Alternate Upstart
Yet another charming and bucolic destination to revel in the scenic backdrop of Vembanad is Kumarakom – on the other side of the lake opposite Alleppey.
Similar to the latter, Kumarakom is nestled in the rice bowl districts of Kerala, providing that rural backdrop to escape to on the banks of the backwaters.
The Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is another additional feature to this backwater paradise, teeming with migratory birds in Spring but nonetheless bustling with denizens all through the year.
Kollam – Exploring Lake Ashtamudi
South of Vembanad lies Lake Ashtamudi (meaning ‘eight-peaks’) – the second largest lake in Kerala and also renowned for its backwater serenity. Interestingly, while the runner-up is a saltwater reservoir, Vembanad is a freshwater lake. This is largely due to a barrage built around Kumarakom to prevent the seepage of the seawater into the lake.
Kollam is a quiet town with its fair share of history. Known as Quilon since ancient times, it has been a trading centre for Chinese, Romans and Phoenicians, with visitors including the likes of Pliny, Ibn Battuta, Zheng He and even Marco Polo.
Besides the lake, the Jatayu Centre, with the world’s largest bird statue, is a great attraction nearby.
Kerala has bounteous offerings for travellers wherever you go – from tea-growing highlands to waterfalls, to gold-laden temples to elephant camps, there is a lot to see. The backwaters, nonetheless, are among its most treasured highlights.
Besides the above, lesser-known but equally tranquil and scenic backwater destinations include Kannur, Kasargod, Khozikode, Sasthamkotta Lake and Poovar Lake.
If You Go
Must-dos include attending a Kathakali dance performance, getting rejuvenated through an Ayurvedic massage, elephant rides and watching Kalaripayuttu martial arts performance. This is all in addition to finding your bit of serenity on a houseboat in the backwaters
Best time to visit – Kerala is a tropical haven and is hot and humid throughout the year; the winter months from November to February are nonetheless the best months with a slight dip in temperature
Other interesting destinations nearby include Trivandrum, Kovalam, Varkala and further south to Kanya Kumari, the southernmost tip of India
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Author Bio: Ayan Adak is a consultant by profession who loves traveling, and has been to nearly 30 countries. He likes writing about his travel experiences besides scribbling poetry, short stories and essays.
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Good to read about my hometown, nice pics as well. Btw, please note that the current name of Cochin is Kochi (the place’s original name) and that’s used internationally. Also, it is not the capital city. Kerala’s capital is Thiruvananthapuram. Kochi may be referred to as the commercial capital of Kerala. Hope it’s helpful.
Thank you! We’ve made that update. 🙂