Smoke That Thunders
If you are in Africa doing the safari lodge hop, consider a two-night stay at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. We arrived here from South Africa after spending eight days at two game lodges and before moving on to two more places in Botswana.
Visiting the falls was a much-needed break after sitting in 4X4s for much of the previous 10 days and getting up before dawn. Two nights here meant sleeping late in the comfort of a proper British Edwardian-era hotel. All this while seeing one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
World’s Largest Waterfalls
Victoria Falls is considered the world’s largest waterfall due to its size. It is actually five different falls spanning 1.05 miles between Zambia and Zimbabwe with a 354-foot drop. Compared to Niagara Falls, it is twice as high and twice as wide in its main section.
The locals call Victoria Falls “the smoke that thunders” in their native language because it is loud and you can see the spray rise up from 30 miles away. Seventy-five percent of the falls are viewable from Zimbabwe, and twenty-five percent from Zambia. The water that dumps into the gorge is a spectacular sight.
Viewing the Falls
My recommendation is to visit either at the beginning of the rainy season, when the water starts to rise, or towards the end, when the river level starts to fall. We met Zimbabwean farmers out for the day who have visited the falls at different times. They said that with too much water, you get soaked, and the gorge fills with mist, making it hard to see. In the dry season, the falls can be a trickle, leaving little to see. Our mid-December visit had the river running a little drier than usual. We found the view on the Zimbabwean side awesome, while the Zambian side was nearly dry.
To get to the falls, we were happy to walk 15 minutes to the park entrance. (Taxis are $4.) The ticket fee is $58 and is valid for one entrance. If you want to leave for lunch, it is another unfair $58 to return. At the entrance, you can get a trail map with numbered markers that explain everything from the Livingstone statue to each of the falls and the gorge. We visited the park twice in the two days because of the change in lighting and to just take it all in again.
The walk in the park is easy and well-marked. Take your time at the different viewing points. (Tip: Bring a waterproof bag to keep your camera and anything else dry.) A hat is important to keep the hot sun off you as well as to hide a bad hair day due to all the mist and humidity. Allow 90 minutes for a leisurely stroll.
Victoria Falls Bridge
During your visit, go to the Victoria Falls Bridge. The bridge is a neutral space between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Bring your passport if you want to walk over to the Zambia side.
In the middle of the bridge, you can see the Zambian side of the falls looking straight down the gorge. Here, the daredevil in you can bungee jump 365 feet in four seconds over the Zambezi River. For something easier, try a “two-country kiss” at the border line. On the bridge, you may be approached by souvenir sellers. If you are not interested in anything, just tell them you left your money in your hotel, or they will follow you halfway back to the border post.
Devil’s Pool
Other activities at the falls include a hike to Devil’s Pool that must be booked in advance. Here, when the river conditions are good, you will be guided to the scary edge of the falls to a natural, small pool. At the pool, you will have the best Instagram photo of poking your head and shoulders over the edge with the top of the falls next to you. This is not for anyone remotely afraid of heights.
Sundowners and Wildlife on the River
For the evening in Victoria Falls, relax on a Wild Horizons Zambezi River sundowner wildlife cruise. (Sundowner is a British term for sunset cocktails that are included.)
During our pleasant boat ride, we saw a river crossing of 18 elephants. This included a few babies that were nudged into the water because it was too deep for them to walk. With their trunks acting like long snorkels, they made their way to the shore guided by the older elephants. We also viewed crocodiles and hippos growling at us near the shore. The cruise ended with a glowing sunset.
Read More: Why This Under-the-Radar South African Safari Belongs on Your Bucket List
If You Go
For our two nights, we loved the old-world charm of the Victoria Falls Hotel. This “leading hotels of the world” property is an elegant Edwardian-style five-star place filled with old furniture, photos, art, and posters from the old empire days. The staff here is excellent.
Our room was spacious, well air-conditioned, and decorated with old travel trunks that served as dressers and a mini-bar. I highly recommend the pool as a wonderful escape from the mid-day heat. Here we watched the warthogs mowing the lawn while floating with a proper British tonic and gin. During the week, the hotel hosts an energetic, colorful cultural dance buffet dinner show.
River Brewery is a fun and tasty microbrewery. This is the place to be for good beer, BBQ and music. They claim to be the closest brewery to a UNESCO site at 0.68 miles. They are also a 10-minute walk from the Victoria Falls Hotel. If you are walking at night, look both ways and ahead. The streets have been known for animal sightings at night.
Getting There and Around
Getting to Victoria Falls is easy when on safari. There are regularly scheduled flights from much of the region to Victoria Falls. Leaving Victoria Falls to our next camp in Botswana was easy and on our own schedule, using a bush pilot in a Cessna. Fees for camp drop-offs are reasonable, efficient, and scenic.
If You Go
Getting There: Flights into Victoria Falls International Airport (VFA) are available from Johannesburg, Cape Town, and other regional hubs. Book flights on CheapOair.
Where to Stay: The Victoria Falls Hotel is one of Africa’s most storied properties — an Edwardian landmark built in 1904, steps from the falls, with a pool, spa, and the kind of unhurried elegance that makes a two-night safari stopover feel like the centerpiece of the trip. Book the Victoria Falls Hotel on Booking.com.
Tours and Activities:
- The falls are the main event. Entrance is $58 per person from the Zimbabwe side, covering 75% of the falls, including the gorge and the Livingstone statue. Allow at least 90 minutes and bring a waterproof bag for your camera.
- For sundowners on the water, the Wild Horizon Zambezi River wildlife cruise is a classic — cocktails included, with reliable elephant, crocodile, and hippo sightings along the way.
- Thrill-seekers won’t want to miss Devil’s Pool, a natural ledge at the very lip of the falls where guides lead small groups to swim and photograph the edge. Book in advance; availability depends on water levels.
- The Victoria Falls Bridge spans the gorge between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Bring your passport to cross to the Zambia side, and look straight down the gorge for a view of the falls you can’t get anywhere else. Bungee jumping (365 feet over the Zambezi) can be arranged on-site.
Dining: River Brewery is a short walk from the Victoria Falls Hotel and a local favorite for craft beer, BBQ, and live music — and they claim to be the closest brewery to a UNESCO World Heritage Site. See their current menu at riverbrewco.com.
Safari Planning: For multi-country safari itineraries across southern Africa, Mark Stodel of Edge Travel handles regional planning and camp-to-camp logistics — and cuts out the layers of middlemen that typically drive up cost and complexity.
Resources:
- Victoria Falls tourism information: victoriafallstourism.org
- Park details and entrance fees: zimparks.org
Travel Insurance: With long-haul flights and multi-country safari logistics, coverage is worth having before you go. Compare plans at Squaremouth or SafetyWing.
Need a hand planning your trip? Here are the sites and services we rely on most, from booking tools to travel products we love.
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Author Bio: After 30 years in the business world, Tab Hauser reinvented himself as a journalist and professional photographer. His travels have taken him to seven continents and 100 countries or unique locations. He is an Explorers Club Friend, a member of the New York Press Association, a diver, and a U.S. Coast Guard Licensed Captain. This native New Yorker now calls Colorado home. Follow on Facebook.
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