A ping, a glance at his screen, and Leo, our guide, sprang into action, instantly reversing the vehicle and four-wheeling fast into the dry bush, generating a lingering cloud of dust in our wake.
Not five minutes after getting the alert text from a colleague, we joined several other open-air safari vehicles parked some 30 feet from a pride of nine lions.
Marveling at the regal lioness striking a sphinxlike pose, the frisky youngsters mixing it up, and the yawning bigger cats lazily stretched out in the sand, it struck me.
We’d seen myriad animals all day in Botswana’s Chobe National Park, from giraffes to warthogs, but now there was not a one in sight — a paean to the feared hunting prowess of the kings of the savannah who were completely unperturbed by our proximity.
But what I was most struck by, however, was how easily, over just several days, at relatively small expense considering what safaris cost today, we had seen the ‘Big Five of Africa’ (elephant, lion, rhino, Cape buffalo, and leopard) along with numerous other species.
We certainly had some luck: “We often go for months without seeing a leopard because they are generally nocturnal hunters,” noted Leo.
Leopards are the most difficult to spot of the Big Five, yet we saw three in a span of 14 hours.
Where Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Botswana Meet
Three countries with bountiful wildlife — Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Botswana — merge in the center of Southern Africa, anchored by one of the great crossroads and natural wonders, not to mention premier bucket list spots, of the continent: Victoria Falls.
The exhilarating experience of visiting the falls cannot be exaggerated, while the river that feeds Victoria Falls, the Zambezi, is a playground of river safaris, white-water rafting, river floats, and more.
The area is rich in game parks, notably Mosi-oa-Tunya in Zambia, Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe, and Chobe in Botswana.
All in all, there are numerous half-day, full-day, and overnight programs to see wildlife, tackle the elements, and enjoy natural beauty, based in either Livingstone, Zambia, or the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, both of which have international airports.
Budget-Friendly Safari Options
You can splurge, because there are very expensive, high-end lodging and tour options, but otherwise you can spend a number of exuberant days here enjoying thrilling activities and not break the bank, and with a little luck feast your eyes on the Big Five.
A game drive wasn’t needed to see elephants that were moving freely in groups around the Livingstone area, thrashing and eating their way through the vegetation.
I didn’t take the signs at our hotel seriously to beware of hippos and crocodiles, until I did, when I realized they were moving freely around us as well.
Browse top-rated and budget-friendly accommodations in Livingstone.
Dry-Season Game Viewing
Deep into the dry season, water becoming increasingly scarce, animals are drawn out of the bush to the seasonally shrinking floodplain of the Chobe River to drink, enhancing game-viewing chances.
What sounded like thunder breaking the quiet was a sudden burst of sable antelopes galloping down to the water, quickly slaking their thirst before charging away to safety.
Leopard Sightings In Chobe
The first leopard Leo spotted, several hundred yards from the edge of the floodplain, was hidden up in a tree.
Even with powerful binoculars, our sight line was partially obscured by branches and leaves as it gnawed on the carcass of an impala.
The next morning, however, we triumphantly got a clear view of a mother leopard and her cub.
The leopardess was reclining in the bushes, while the little one bounced around and then suddenly ran off into the bush.
She remained unconcerned and simply went to sleep — allowing us to zero in on her with binoculars, fully taking in the breathtaking sight, and then get good shots of her with a telephoto lens.
Read More: How to Plan Your Dream African Safari
Camping Under African Skies
One of the reasons we saw leopards was that we did Chobe National Park on an overnight trip, so we were there late and early when animals are more active.
We spotted the leopards late afternoon, when the day trippers had already gone, and early morning, before they arrived.
Camping out was also the perfect immersion in the bush, listening to trumpeting elephants and the whooping calls of hyenas at night, and to a cacophony of avian voices in the morning.
If you want a similar adventure, the Chobe Safari Overnight Camping Trip includes a sunrise visit to Victoria Falls, a safari boat cruise, and a morning game drive before breakfast in the bush.
Walking With White Rhinos
In Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, we walked among white rhino — almost.
We had to keep a respectful, safe distance, with an armed guard accompanying us (who looked about 16 years old and was carrying an AK-47!), but the Walking Safari was truly exhilarating — and dynamized by the extraordinary knowledge and ultra-keen eye of Kangwa.
Kangwa was one of those guides who, before you even see the creature, was calling out its name, and as we walked, identified animal prints and droppings, recounted many anecdotes, and even spotted a praying mantis that looked like just another twig among thousands on the ground.
He did have a corny sense of humor, though: “A group of crows is called a murder, but if it’s only two or three crows, it’s an attempted murder.”
Along the way, we saw puku antelopes, waterbucks, vervet monkeys, baboons, numerous birds such as the green wood hoopoe, African finfoot, and white-fronted bee-eater, and several rhinos in the distance.
Then we reached a clearing where a group of white rhinos, including a calf, were peacefully grazing with zebras and impalas.
It was a glorious grandstand view from only about 50 feet away — until the large bull elephants arrived, trumpeting and barging in with authoritarian swagger.
Suddenly, it was a potentially dangerous situation, our guard directing us to slowly fall back and then pounding a stick on an empty water bottle to distract the elephants.
It worked; they seemed puzzled by the unfamiliar sound, backed off, and wandered away.
Read More: On Safari with the All-Woman Guide Team at Botswana’s Chobe Game Lodge
Buffalo, Hippos, and Boats
The first of several Cape buffalo sightings was on a marshy, reed-covered island in the Chobe River, where the huge herbivores (typically some 1,500 to almost 2,000 pounds) were grazing on grasses.
The buffalo — surprisingly, considered the most dangerous of the Big Five, because of their massive size, formidable horns, and reputation for charging when sensing a threat — perked up but remained unconcerned as our small, aluminum motorboat approached.
Instead, it was a hippo that came at us, fiercely and single-mindedly, swimming fast with an enormous mouth wide open.
We quickly boated away to safety.
Memorable Safari Highlights
The quest to see the Big Five was filled with special moments:
– We stumbled upon a great feast underway: a wake of vultures feeding on the carcass of an elephant, their long necks stretching deep into the body cavity, jostling with each other to get more of the raw, dead flesh.
– Four young lions scampering down to the water, playfully nipping at each other all the way, to suck up a long drink of water.
– A young male elephant spotting us, considering us suspiciously, short tail twitching, then running at us in a mock charge, before turning tail back to mama.
– A tall kori bustard, the largest flying bird native to Africa, landing close by.
– A black-backed jackal appearing, sprinting along, purposely, possibly searching for its mate as they tend to live in family units.
Victoria Falls’ Immense Power
The defining special moment, however, was the obvious one: the mighty, full-blown intensity of Victoria Falls.
It is unique in many ways: Victoria is considered the largest waterfall on the planet because its combined width and height create the most extensive sheet of falling water anywhere.
It is actually a series of cascades, extending 5,604 feet along the rim of a narrow gorge, that plunge (to the lowest point below) 354 feet.
Instead of flowing away to a river or lake, when the falling water hits bottom, it explodes against the opposite wall of the gorge, generating massive, watery clouds and spraying mist high and wide that can obscure parts of the falls as well as soak visitors.
The meaning of the falls’ indigenous name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, perfectly describes the phenomenon: “the smoke that thunders.”
The gargantuan scope of falling water is probably best seen from the Zimbabwean side, while the gorge is better revealed on the Zambian side because there is less spray.
Zimbabwe declares and manifests the power and glory of Victoria, while Zambia divulges its heart and soul, allowing you to peer into and understand its geology.
Devil’s Pool Edge Thrills
For some travelers, seeing the natural wonder of Victoria Falls is not enough — they also have to take the plunge and risk it all at the Devil’s Pool.
It’s a multi-step odyssey to get there: a speedy motorboat on the Zambezi River to an island above the cascade, a short walk to where you have to ford fast-flowing water, then a scramble over slippery rocks before dropping into the pool.
It is located literally at the edge of the falls, massive volumes of raging water pouring over the rim a few feet away, a strong current ripping through the Devil’s Pool itself.
Once there, one guide actually walks along the edge — totally oblivious to the fact that the tiniest false step means certain death — taking photos of you with your own cellphone, while another guide holds your ankles so you can hang over the edge for the photos.
The more you dangle over the edge, the braver (or crazier) you are.
If you want to experience this for yourself, the Devil’s Pool at Victoria Falls Morning Tour takes you right to the edge of the falls with expert guides and safety support. It’s an early-morning adventure that includes the boat ride, a short swim, time in the pool and photos — plus snacks before you head back with your heart still racing.
Easy Cross-Border Travel
Going in search of the Big Five while taking in the falls and the array of possible activities, from bungee jumping in the gorge to white-water rafting on the Zambezi, is exceptionally easy and convenient.
Hotels can book any activity with pickup usually right at the hotel itself, while the three countries super facilitate the cross-border tourism.
All three offer a visa on arrival, good for multiple crossings among them, while passport control between them is as simple and fast as it gets.
At one border, where the Botswana and Zambia officials are in the same building, we exited one country and entered the other literally in less than two minutes.
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