Opening Reflections on Sorrento
“Hours, halt now, suspend your flight.” This is the opening line of a 16th-century poem authored by Torquato Tasso. These words described my feelings as we boarded the bus to leave Sorrento, Italy.
Standing in the Piazzo Tasso, named after Sorrento’s native son, I could only regret that we had not given ourselves more time to explore and embrace the picturesque town that clings to sheer limestone cliffs high on the Sorrentine Peninsula south of Naples.
We had allowed ourselves just a few short hours in this town overlooking the Bay of Naples for a brief respite on our way to the ancient city of Pompeii.
Read More: Pompeii, Unhurried: Ruins, Vesuvius and a Naples Sprint
Exploring Piazza Tasso
Disembarking in the main square, the aforementioned Piazza Tasso, we found ourselves surrounded by cafés, each fronted with an array of tables and chairs filled with diners. It appeared that, between sips of their espresso, everyone was enjoying the ongoing street performances of the traffic at large.
Scooters, guided with abandon by their young riders, zoomed past small cars frustrated by motionless traffic. Occasional irritated gestures, as only Italians can do, were flung at the maneuverable two-wheelers, received with carefree laughs.
In the center of the square stands a statue of the patron saint of Sorrento, Abbot St. Antoninus. The statue has his right hand raised in blessing, while his left foot stands on the head of a sea serpent. Legend has it in the sixth century, a boy was playing on the seashore of Sorrento when suddenly, a sea creature appeared through the waves, swallowing him whole. Horrified, his mother ran to the local monastery, where she begged the abbot to save her child’s life. As it is told, the abbot was able to bring the child back from the depths, virtually unscathed.
The plaza was built above a gorge, which was once home to a number of mills. In the 1800s, a stream ran from the hills above down to the sea. A glance from the Piazza into the gorge below, known as the Valley of the Mills, will show a number of abandoned stone mills being reclaimed by nature.
A Quiet Escape and Shopping Delight
Five minutes from the cacophony of the piazza, we found the peaceful retreat of Ristorante Pizzeria Tasso. The vibrant, inviting dining room was matched by our excellent morning brunch. A wonderful manicotti with a rich tomato sauce was followed by seasoned chicken and lemon potatoes. A glass of wine and a slice of tiramisu sent us on our way with smiles.
Afterwards, we stepped into the massive Gargiulo & Jannuzzi. Spanning three floors and occupying an entire block, this emporium specializes in inlaid wood, embroidery, lace, and hand-crafted ceramics. As we wandered the aisles filled with exquisite crafts, a skilled artisan demonstrated the fine craft of inlaid woodworking.
Sorrento’s Shopping District
Sorrento’s lure is its shopping district. It is a magnet for shoppers in search of locally made artisanal treasures. Beyond the plaza lay even more finds.
Corso Italia (Italy Street), just off the main Piazza Tasso, and the sea are the boundaries of a colorful and unique neighborhood. A boulevard, paved with black volcanic rocks, that is off-limits to cars save for the occasional scooter, Corso Italia is lined with bars, cafés, restaurants, and elegant designer stores with Italian brands.
As we strolled the cobblestones, the street slowly came alive as apron-clad owners swept out their doorways, locals purchased bags of fruits and vegetables from storefronts festooned with melons, peppers, blood oranges, and the ever-present lemons. We peeked into windows and entered attractive little shops filled with sleek handbags and silken scarves.
Charming Historic Streets
After a few blocks, at the Sorrento Cathedral, its 11th-century Romanesque roots featuring frescoes, woodwork, and a historic bell tower, we turned right and then right again where we found ourselves on Via San Cesareo, one of the most charming historic streets in Sorrento.
The narrow streets are beautiful; pastel-colored buildings decorated with wrought-iron balconies adorned with boxes overflowing with colorful arrays of flowers rise high above the pavement like the cliffs of a landlocked fjord.
Unlike the somnolent feel of Corso Italia, the street is filled with the sounds of languages competing with one another as throngs of shoppers made their way in-and-out of store fronts beckoned by smiling, enthusiastic sellers. Lively chatter mixes with Vespas trying to inch their way through the crowds. Paint-peeling walls display the colorful works of local artists.
Lemon Delights in Sorrento
Vendors called out for us to look at their leather wares—handbags and belts. Or inlaid jewelry boxes crafted of walnut, rosewood, and ebony. To fill them, hand-carved cameos and pieces of inlaid coral were displayed in windows. Everywhere is the familiar scent of lemon. It lingered all around like a fragrant bouquet.
Lemons are far and wide in Sorrento. The hillsides are layered with terraced groves that fruit year around. Every shop seemingly attempts to sell some lemon creation: lemon pastries, lemon oils, lemon candies, lemon soap…and limoncello.
An intensely lemon-flavored liqueur, Limoncello is most famously associated with and produced in Sorrento, the Amalfi coast, and the island of Capri with each region claiming its origins. This distinctive liqueur gets its fluorescent-yellow color from the skins of locally grown lemons. Colorful bottles of the amber liquid flew off the shelves.
One such shop we found particularly inviting was Limonoro. A young, vivacious lady beckoned us into the doorway with a platter filled with chocolates, offering samples. Once inside, she tempted us with tastings of several varieties of limoncello. This shop is amazing! Needless to say, we left with several bags of food and alcohol-related souvenirs.
For a deeper taste of Sorrento, the Sorrento Farm & Food Experience takes you from downtown to the countryside. Wander olive and lemon groves, see how wine is made, and enjoy tastings of olive oil, limoncello, and local wines, plus a freshly prepared lunch.
Discovering Hidden Gems
As Kathy, my wife, pursued other offerings, I slipped through a non-descript entrance, past an unadorned wooden door. Inside I discovered a hidden gem that dates back to 1739. Chiesa dell’Addolorata (Church of Our Lady of Sorrows) is a small Baroque-style church whose artistic interior belies its simple exterior.
The pink-painted internal walls are decorated with white plasterwork, and the brick floor still has some of its original majolica tiles, which were decorated with floral designs.
The most striking feature in the church is the wooden statue of the Madonna. It is displayed in a niche behind the altar that is protected behind glass. The Madonna is wearing a dark-colored, gold-trimmed gown with a gold crown. In her hands, she is holding a white handkerchief, as a manifestation of her grief after the crucifixion of Christ.
On this day, a compact art show was on display, many of the paintings and photos depicting Sorrentian life.
Final Reflections and Departure
Afterwards, a walk down a crooked street took us to the limestone cliffs at the edge of town, overlooking the Marina Piccola, the town’s ‘little’ harbor with its small beach ringing the turquoise waters.
Unfortunately, time had escaped us, the hours taking flight. A half-day in Sorrento was an exciting introduction to this picturesque, cliff-top Italian gem. However, it left us wanting more, and there’s so much more to embrace.
If You Go
- Sorrento is roughly 31 miles from Naples. There are both train or ferry options. By car or bus will take 45-60 minutes depending on traffic.
- Ministry of tourism: Visit Sorrento
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Author Bio: Frank Hosek relishes traveling with his wife, Kathy. He enjoys discovering new experiences, meeting the people that make those experiences memorable, and sharing their adventures with others. He has written for Go World Travel Magazine, The Daily Journal, News Gazette and Lifestyles magazine. Frank has won awards from NWPA and IWPA for his travel writing. He looks toward the horizon for the next adventure.
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