The Sea of Cortez has been called the Aquarium of the World, and for good reason. It’s rich with abundant sea life, from dolphins to whales to sea lions.
After making our base in the laid-back Mexican city of La Paz, several friends and I went on a boating adventure on the Sea of Cortez. The weather was warm, and the sun shone brightly in a clear blue sky as we zoomed across the water.
We were still riding high from our morning adventure of swimming with whale sharks, and then we were off on the second part of our day trip: going to snorkel with sea lions.
After a picnic lunch on Ensenda Grande, a quiet, picturesque beach on an aquamarine bay, our Cortez Club captain headed the boat toward Isla Espiritu Santo, the 12th largest island in Mexico.
The island is part of the Espiritu Santo Biosphere Reserve, designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its biodiversity.
Los Islotes, a small island at the northern end of Isla Espiritu Santo, is home to one of the largest and healthiest sea lion colonies in Mexico, with over 600 California sea lions, and that’s where we are headed.
It’s about an hour by boat from La Paz, making it a perfect day trip for anyone visiting Baja California Sur.
One of the most popular ways to experience this is on the Espiritu Santo Island Snorkeling Sea Lion Adventure, a small group boat trip from La Paz that combines a scenic ride across the Sea of Cortez with snorkeling at Los Islotes, where curious sea lions weave through the water around you before the day winds down on one of the island’s untouched beaches.
Sea Lions of the Cortez Sea
I heard the sea lions before I saw them, barking and calling to each other on the rocky shoreline. As my eyes focused, I saw hundreds of sea lions, some playing in the water, others sunning on the rocks.
Several of them swam right up to our boat, as if to check us out. The sea lions are here year-round, although swimming with them is not allowed during mating season from June through August.
We planned to snorkel here among the sea lions. Javier, our guide, gave us a little background on these amazing creatures before we went in.
The yearling pups tend to be quite playful and have even been known to be mischievous, tugging at snorkel straps or headbands.
Play Time
The adult females are graceful swimmers, watching over their young as they glide through the water. However, Javier advises us to stay away from the bulls.
They are much larger, up to 600 lbs., and can get aggressive about their territory. If we give the alpha males their space, we’ll have no problems, he says.
Although diving with the sea lions is also allowed, we were on a snorkeling tour. So, donning our masks and fins, we slipped into the water. Within a minute, I’m surrounded by sea lions gracefully slicing through the water as they turn and twist.
They’re not afraid of us at all. In fact, many are curious. They swam right up to me, then turned at the very last second. I followed some of my friends into a small cave, where many of the lithe creatures play.
Cortez Club
Sunlight poured through the entrance, casting a spotlight on the sea lions. One small female swims right up to my face, looking me directly in the mask, just inches from my face. She’s just as curious as I am. She stays there, not moving, and I’m so fascinated I can barely breathe. Then she slips away, off to another adventure.
Dozens and dozens of sea lions continued to swim around me, and then suddenly, a behemoth male swims by with his harem. I back away, but he pays me no mind.
We stay in the water for 45 minutes, which is the time allowed. The water is chilly this time of year (spring), but thankfully, the Cortez Club, our tour operator, provided us with full-body wetsuits, which help to keep us warm.
All too soon, it’s time to climb back into the boat. I’m tired, but happy as we head back. It’s just a quick ride back to La Paz, which has been the perfect base for our Sea of Cortez adventure.
Unwinding After the Ocean
After relaxing at our hotel, the Hotel Indigo La Paz Puerta Cortés, a luxury property overlooking the water, I’m starving and eager for our dinner out. Dining in La Paz has been a highlight so far.
Fresh seafood, vegetables, and fruits were staples in every meal, and the local Mexican cuisine was excellent.
That night, we dined at Sorstis, a popular local restaurant known for its Mediterranean dishes with Italian influences. I liked the décor and open courtyard, and my seafood pasta was excellent.
Although tired, we happily relaxed around the table, still eager to discuss our day’s adventures.
There are many more things to do in La Paz, including stand-up paddleboarding on the bay, visiting the Whale Museum, and a trip to see the gray whales at Magdalena Bay.
If You Go
The best time to swim with sea lions at Los Islotes is from September through May. The colony is closed to snorkelers and divers from June 1 through August 31 during mating season.
Tours typically depart from La Paz and take about an hour to reach the island. Most operators provide wetsuits and snorkeling equipment, and tours can often be combined with whale shark encounters or beach visits to other parts of Isla Espiritu Santo.
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