It’s evening when we step aboard the American Eagle in a tiny harbor in Rockland, Maine. The 122-foot wooden vessel was built in 1930 in Gloucester, Massachusetts as a fishing schooner, and it feels a bit like we’re stepping back in time.
The tall ship’s wooden decks shine, and her polished brass gleams while her lofty masts gently sway above us.
The American Eagle carries her age well. She’s been beautifully transformed into a passenger vessel offering an authentic sailing experience that harkens back to the golden age of sail. She can carry 26 passengers in comfort. Happily, this week my friend Laurie and I are among them.
What is a Maine Windjammer?
The American Eagle is part of the Maine Windjammers, the largest fleet of traditional tall ships in the Americas. Each individually owned windjammer offers all-inclusive sailing adventures on Penobscot Bay in coastal Maine.
Maine has over 4,600 islands along its coast, offering a massive playground for seafaring adventurers. Laurie and I have ditched our husbands for the week and jumped at the chance to explore this unique part of the country on a storied schooner. Though we’re not sailors, we’re eager to spend time on the sea.
We’ve joined the Perseid Meteor Showers 3-night cruise. The American Eagle offers three- to six-night cruises from May through September. Some have special themes, like this one. We’re hoping the dark night skies above the sea offer a good view of this prolific meteor shower, usually visible from mid-July to late August.
The American Eagle hosts other themed cruises. In September, they have a six-day Wooden Boat Sail-In, when the whole Windjammer fleet gets together for a night of music and camaraderie.
Exploring the American Eagle
Eager to start our sailing adventure, Laurie and I head down to our small, but comfortable cabin. We have two bunk beds, fresh linens, reading lights, 12-volt outlets and a small sink and mirror. There are two shared restrooms and a shower onboard. Below deck is a cozy wood-paneled main cabin with a board game library for rainy days.
It’s a thrill to sit on deck as the ship leans with the wind, cutting through the water at speed. We enjoy the friendly camaraderie onboard with the other passengers and help raise the sails when needed.
Dining on the American Eagle
We eat like kings on the American Eagle. Food is sourced locally as much as possible from farmers, coffee roasters and fishermen in Mid-Coast Maine. Each meal is prepared in the ship’s small but efficient galley using the original 1930 wood-burning cookstove.
The meals soon become a highlight, with fresh breads, pastries, and desserts accompanying each one. Each trip is all-inclusive, with meals included in the fare. You can bring your own wine and beer onboard and store them in the ship’s cooler.
Sailing with the Wind
On a sailing cruise, the itinerary depends on the wind. The American Eagle’s home port is Rockland, Maine, so we depart and return to this small coastal Maine town.
Besides that, we sail where the wind takes us. On our first morning, we wake to a gorgeous blue sky. As we skirt through dozens of islands, we pass some dotted with vacation homes, and others are deserted.
In the evening, we drop anchor in a quiet bay. After rowing to shore on the ship’s wooden rowboat, we watch the crew build a fire on the beach. They’ve purchased dozens of lobsters from a local fisherman.
Within minutes, our lobster boil is underway. After a delicious lobster picnic, Laurie and I walk through the woods to the other side of the small island. There’s not another soul in sight.
The sun is setting as we row back to the American Eagle. It’s been an unforgettable day, and we sleep well that night.
The next morning, we wake up to a thick fog. It’s magical, and the fog and light rain dampen all sound. The crew covers the deck, and we have a slow, leisurely breakfast.
Then, when the fog clears, we set sail for Stonington, a small traditional fishing village. There, walking among the small shops, I find a tiny used bookstore. I can’t help buying several fiction books set in Maine.
Captain Tyler King
On our last evening on board, we join the other passengers for a fun game of charades. Laughter fills the air.
When it darkens, the crew brings out lanterns and Captain Tyler King pulls out his guitar. He sings us old sailing songs and then reads poetry and stories of the sea.
Captain Tyler grew up sailing with his parents on a 62-ft schooner. He was so young when he started sailing that he slept in a drawer. His family owned a small wooden boatyard in Gloucester, Massachusetts, and he soon learned to build and repair nearly every type of wooden vessel. It’s easy to see how much he loves being at sea.
Later that evening, the sky clears. The stars come out and reflect on the sea, which is as smooth as glass. The American Eagle barely moves, but the gentle movement rocks me to sleep. I sleep deeply, once again, dreaming of the sea.
If You Want to Sail with the American Eagle
American Eagle
schooneramericaneagle.com
Maine Windjammer Association
sailmainecoast.com
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