As the bus bounced over the uneven cobblestones, its worn brake shoes let out a screeching grind. An elderly Mexican, wearing a tattered cowboy hat, with a scratched guitar slung over his shoulder, jumped on board without the vehicle ever coming to a complete stop. He steadied himself against a seat back, so he could strum and remain upright when the bus lunged forward.
Life as an Expat in Lake Chapala, Mexico
As I listened to him croon Besa Me Mucho, I realized that in 12 years of taking this scruffy public transportation (7 pesos/$.50US), I have never tired of these amateur, hop on-hop off performers. Offering a fiddler’s tune, a magic trick, or an off-key ballad, they trust that paying customers will cough-up a few pesos for the entertainment.
Mexican mothers guiding multiple children, construction workers carrying tools, gardeners lugging string trimmers, uniformed high school students and a sprinkling of expatriates make up this motley group of daily riders. We’re all on our way to scheduled activities in various villages on the shores of Lake Chapala―at almost 6000 feet, Mexico’s highest and largest lake. I’m one of those non-Mexicans, on route to Ajijic where I have voluntarily taught English to Mexican adults at an expat-run school since I retired to Chapala in 2006.
Expat Communities in Mexico
Upwards of 10,000 foreigners, mostly Americans and Canadians, call the lakeside communities in Mexico home, each village wedged between the shore and the sharp rise of the Sierra Madres. These North American transplants hire gardeners, maids, medical care services or builders, so teaching English to the Mexican workforce turns out to be both rewarding and necessary.
The students have become my family, filling the void when my husband and I made the decision to leave our country. Although I have tried to master Spanish for years, ironically I’ve learned the most from my Mexican students in English class. It’s a thoroughly symbiotic relationship.
The bus screeches again and four pajaros del nieve, as the permanent residents like to call them, board. They’re ‘snowbirds’ who retreat from the freezing winter temperatures and blinding snows of the northern US and Canada from January through March, for a respite of sun and blue skies at Lake Chapala.
I spot them instantly, with their short-sleeved shirts, Bermuda shorts and sandals. One glance around the bus and it is clear that I and all of the Mexicans bundled in scarves, woolen sweaters and fur-lined boots, suffer thinned blood from living at a high elevation year-round. It is a cool, January morning of 55 degrees. after all. The snowbirds stare at our heavy garb and we shiver at the sight of bare arms and legs.
On the bus ride home from school, a woman seated behind me taps my shoulder. “I liked your article in El Ojo del Lago this month,” she said. This happens with some frequency, although it astounds me every time.
People recognize me from my picture posted in stories I’ve written for an English language magazine, published and widely circulated in the area surrounding Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city. When I’m not teaching English, I’m scripting personal interest stories that have appeared in local magazines for 12 years.
The area supports a substantial enclave of writers and artists. Positive energy and inspiring views of Lake Chapala encourage creativity. D.H Lawrence embraced this backdrop when he took up residence in Chapala for three years while writing the Plumed Serpent.
His home has been turned into an exquisite colonial bed and breakfast, The Quezequatal Inn and many writers go there to feel the stirring vibes of Lawrence’s ghost lurking among the greenery of lush gardens and tall palms.
Climate in Lake Chapala, Mexico
Our temperate climate allows for outdoor activities year round. Lake breezes, mountain protection and the altitude make for a high desert, spring-like feel. Sunny, steel-blue skies and low humidity prevail.
Nine dry months from October to May create dusty conditions, but frequent late afternoon and evening rains from June through September cause the landscape to explode in hues of green.
National Geographic rates our area as having the world’s second-best climate, behind Nairobi. Lake Chapala may be number two, but it’s pretty darn perfect. Still climate change has also been observed on the shores of Lake Chapala. This past winter it snowed in nearby towns and we shivered through a few 40◦F nights.
I phone my sister, who still resides in the same Pennsylvania town where I spent 60 years and I admit gloating about my life in Mexico spurs me on. This day, the Northeast was reportedly having a beast of a snowstorm; the perfect time to call to discuss her ‘shoveling’ and my ‘swimming laps, walking to the gym and getting in a game of tennis.’ I have no shame.
Safety in Mexico
My sister starts the phone conversation with her usual, “Are you safe?” The US media plays up violence in foreign countries, while neglecting to mention its own.
My response spills out, “Have you been to Chicago lately?” I ask her about her property taxes. Before we left PA, our annual property taxes were $8,000 annually. She groans over the unreasonable amount that she pays.
Continued on next page