I love to travel and for me, the greatest journeys are by train. Rail journeys are wonderful and all are in some way exceptional – the cross-section of life they carry, the scenery they pass through, or the distances they travel.
In an age when it is seen as if the romance has been leached out of travel and the demand for “slow travel” grows, train journeys are bringing travelers to less-trodden places often in grand style.
The demand is not new, but these kinds of journeys are increasingly on travellers’ wish lists, and the trend now for rail travel is to slow down, see more, and enjoy the trip.
It is not so much about reliving the past but finding novel ways to be present. This certainly includes iconic journeys such as South Africa’s Rovos Rail, a privately owned and family-run business ranked as one of the world’s top luxurious train journeys.
The Rovos Rail Experience
Rovos Rail has a style of its own, with train tours that have a blend of earthy African safari and traditional luxury.
The journey allowed me to relive the romance of a bygone Africa on a nostalgic 3-night 1400km expedition from Pretoria, South Africa to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, the famous Victoria Falls on the mighty Zambezi River in Zimbabwe.
Beginning the Adventure
This adventure begins at the gracious, historic red brick station, built in 1948, in Pretoria, South Africa.
The property is also home to an engrossing railway museum packed with rail memorabilia. A visit to the museum and a tour of the railway sheds gives passengers a glimpse of the behind-the-scenes workings of the company and sets the mood for the journey ahead.
The train, being more than twenty-six carriages, is pulled by one and sometimes two diesel engines. It used to be pulled by steam, but replenishing the engine with water along the way became logistically impossible, and the company had to change to using diesel.
With great excitement and the efficient settling of travellers into their private sleeping suites, the train then winds its way northwards, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn en route to the Zimbabwean border.
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The Charm of the Train
The use of traditional furnishings, fine wood panelling, and period décor throughout transports guests immediately back to a time of relaxed, elegant, and grand rail travel of yesteryear.
Wood-paneled sleeping coaches offer guests a choice of spacious, air-conditioned twin or double-bedded Royal, Deluxe, or Pullman suites, all featuring modern conveniences alongside period Edwardian details.
Each coach has been meticulously restored and has its own personal history – some date back as early as 1911.
The first four hours after we left Pretoria, the train ambled along at a slow speed, stopping regularly. In fact, I was surprised how slow the train travelled, rarely more than 80 km an hour and mostly around 50 km per hour.
The border formalities at Beitbridge, Zimbabwe, were efficiently and effortlessly handled by the train manager and staff, and we did not even have to leave the comfort of the train.
What Makes the Journey Exceptional?
Rovos Rail has wonderful, attentive staff and provides a genuine 1920s train journey experience.
Food is an integral part of the Rovos experience, and the two dining cars are both beautiful. The polished wood, high-quality light fittings, and carpets all create a grand ambiance reminiscent of the luxurious travel of a bygone age.
The dining coaches have two and four-seater booths and the interior designer clearly envisaged a train packed with sophisticates in dining suites and cocktail dresses, hence the 1920s vibe.
The meals are exceptional with attentive service. Lunch and dinner are refined four-course meals, and each course is paired with fine South African wines. Breakfast is a more relaxed affair where guests can choose from a breakfast buffet or order traditional hot food.
The train is all-inclusive, including the minibar in the suites. As my husband and I were celebrating an anniversary, sparkling wine and a small gift surprised us in our room and then again at the dinner table.
This thoughtfulness was a splendid example of their attention to detail and exceptional customer service.
Falling asleep on a train is a category of its own. The train cars are built to exact 1920s standards, so they lack modern suspensions and sound-deadening systems, which gives Rovos Rail travellers a genuine experience.
Exploring Hwange National Park
On day three, we travelled along the world’s longest stretches of straight railway line, 114 km, before traversing Hwange National Park.
With about 100,000 elephants, Zimbabwe has the world’s second-largest population after Botswana. More than half of these elephants roam freely within and outside the vast, sprawling and unfenced Hwange National Park.
Before stopping for a game drive in Hwange National Park, wild animals can occasionally be spotted from the train. A private game lodge called The Hide had numerous game vehicles waiting to take us for an exhilarating one-hour game drive.
The knowledgeable game rangers eagerly answered all our questions and included so many interesting pieces of information, encouraging visitors to not only look out for the Big Five but to enjoy the trees, grasses, and small creatures of a game park.
The experience ended with sundowners set up with wine, beers, and soft drinks as well as delicious hot and cold snacks, all enjoyed around a crackling campfire.
As darkness set in, we returned to the train and were greeted by a line of welcoming train staff offering cold flannels and a glass of sparkling wine or fruit juice before boarding the train.
Enjoying the Journey’s End
The train has an observation car, which is a prime photography spot and is outside the air-conditioned bar and lounge area. This space also allows visitors to enjoy the sights and sounds of Africa.
Watching the rural countryside from either inside or outside, the world blurs into a watercolour of greens and browns, punctuated by the occasional splash of vibrant wildflowers.
Rail journeys take one to the heart of the local experience, while also being safe, environmentally friendly, and scenic.
As train journeys stick to a set route, they spring no surprises, allowing one’s mind to wander and giving time for reflection. Additionally, when travel distance is long, a train journey allows one the time and the opportunity to strike up conversations with strangers.
A long, slow journey is an interruption of reality that creates an atmosphere that cannot be experienced with other types of journeys.
The journey ended in the town of Victoria Falls, located on the northern border of Zimbabwe, near Livingstone in Zambia.
African dancers greeted us at the quaint historic railway station and all luggage was loaded off and taken to the Victoria Falls hotel, where some guests stayed and others ventured off to the numerous wonderful lodges in or around the area.
What better way to see the world than by train? The Rovos Rail train journey is certainly a wonderfully joyous occasion, from the bustling rural towns to the serene African countryside. The journey is filled with moments of excitement, discovery, luxury and introspection.
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Author Bio: Diane McLeish is a lifestyle, travel and conservation writer living in Kenya. She has traveled extensively in sub-Saharan Africa and enjoys sharing her wildlife and travel stories from around Africa.
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