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The sign on the river’s left warned of the rapids to come. We were as prepared as possible, having heard about the intense Class 4+ whitewater we would encounter after reaching the Colorado and Green Rivers confluence in Utah’s Cataract Canyon. The water level was high, which meant the rapids would be fast and turbulent…and exciting!
The wave train started with some fun rapids; then it was time to “buckle up” for the mile-long siege, where the rapids come quickly, with frothing rocks, eddies, holes, and other boat-chomping features to avoid. It was a wild rollercoaster that became even wilder once we encountered the infamous trio of Big Drop rapids. Here, the river drops over thirty feet in less than three-quarters of a mile.
After accomplishing Big Drop 1, all the boats pulled over so the guides could scout the next two behemoths. We gaped at the massive rock in the center of Big Drop 2, known as Little Niagara, and then our eyes got huge as we saw Big Drop 3, also known as Satan’s Gut.
Thrills and Chills Ahead
This rapid looked monstrous, with a ginormous hole sitting on the bottom. It quickly became apparent how it got its name. Back in the boat, we could tell our guide, Tony, was amped up but also nervous, as he (and we) understood that one false move would most likely cause the boat to flip, dumping us into this monstrosity. We watched as the other boats took turns, all making it through without issue.
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Then we got into position. I was white-knuckling it while trying to remember the instructions to follow if we fell out of the raft. Sitting at the front, I had an up-close and personal view of the churning waves and tremendous wall of water barreling at us. It proceeded to wallop and drench us as if this beast wanted to swallow us whole. Tony navigated textbook style, threading the raft through this insane mass and following the path to get us through safely. The sighs of relief were audible, but the gleeful shouts that followed were riotous, as everyone was stoked!
Cataract Canyon and Canyonlands National Park
Cataract Canyon is a section of the Colorado River between Moab, above Lake Powell, and the Grand Canyon. The river flows through the heart of Canyonlands National Park, the largest national park in the state.
Established in 1964, the park spans 227,598 acres and boasts a wilderness of countless canyons, mesas, sandstone pillars, arches, and buttes. It’s divided into four districts: Island in the Sky, The Needles, the Maze, and the rivers themselves.
A River Runner’s Nirvana
Rafting Cataract Canyon is often on the must-run list for many boaters, primarily because of its fifteen-mile-long section of thrilling rapids that can rival the big ones found within the Grand Canyon. Adrenaline-hungry river runners are attracted to this passage, which is viewed as one of the country’s most challenging sections of whitewater, even for veterans who have done it dozens of times. They say that each run is different due to the extreme water fluctuations and the obstacles that can appear or disappear depending on water levels.
A Geologic Marvel
In addition to superb whitewater, those who run “Cat” are rewarded with a sublime landscape and fascinating geology. The Colorado River carved the canyon, and deposition and erosion processes took place over eons of years.
It contains an assortment of strange and out-of-this-world formations that appear as the work of a giant chisel. And its lofty, sheer cliffs stretch upwards two thousand feet, rising to pierce the sky. From the vantage point of being down in the river, these towering, craggy walls look formidable and have a humbling effect on humans.
People’s History in the Canyon
The first people to visit Canyonlands came over 10,000 years ago. They left behind rock art that can still be seen in the park today. Then, about 2,000 years ago, the ancestral Puebloans occupied the area, leaving their mark in the form of granaries and dwellings.
The Powell Expedition was the first organized exploration to travel the entire length of the canyon back in 1869. John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War vet, helmed it. Powell and his crew launched their wooden boats near Green River, Wyoming, and made the trip down the waterway to its confluence with the Colorado River at the top of the canyon.
Reportedly, the mighty rapids of Cat terrified the group, and they subsequently portaged their boats around each one. Powell is said to have looked back at the canyon and named it Cataract, meaning “A type of waterfall with a large, single vertical drop.”
Raft with OARS
Excited to explore this legendary place, I opted to do a four-day Cataract Canyon trip with OARS. Founded in 1969, the company has a lengthy history of operating raft and multisport trips throughout the American West and Southwest, as well as internationally. OARS’ stellar reputation is well-known in the industry, and it takes pride in its highly experienced and customer-focused guides and staff. The company also puts safety first and invests in top-of-the-line equipment.
Group Dynamics
Our group of 21 represented varying ages, from young adults to seniors, and we came from diverse walks of life while hailing from all around the country. Despite these differences, we shared a genuine appreciation and respect for nature and an enthusiasm for outdoor adventure. In just a short time, we developed camaraderie, which is often a delightful byproduct of such an experience. This was enhanced by the fact that we had to disconnect from our gadgets and connect with one another the old-fashioned way.
For most, it took a day to relax into what’s fondly known as “river time.” The realization that you’re not going to be bothered by emails, texts, or phone calls and can put your busy life aside is such a rare sensation in our technology-dependent world. I, for one, treasured it!
The Guides
Six OARS guides accompanied us: Adam, the trip leader, Pete, Tony, Nate, Stevie, and Cheyenne. The way this group worked as a cohesive team showed that they knew one another and enjoyed each other’s company. They anticipated needs, stepped in to assist, and always made themselves available for questions, concerns, etc. And each had a good sense of humor!
The Boats
We had five boats to accommodate our group: two large Snouts – pontoon style and motor operated – two oared, wooden dories, and one inflatable oared raft. Throughout the trip, people could choose the boat they wanted to ride in and have the opportunity to try the different crafts to experience the various types of rides.
The Snouts, being big and motorized, offered a smoother ride, especially through the rapids. And as you’re sitting up high, you can get a good perspective of the water. The dories, flat bottom boats with high sides and curved bows, are classic crafts known for speed and elegance.
They ride the waves and have a rollicking and rolling sensation with some airborne movement. The raft, on the other hand, plows through the waves, and you get smacked by them. You’re closely connected to the water and see and feel its full force – my kind of ride!
OARS four-day trip spans roughly a hundred miles. It involves using motorized crafts for the first two days until you reach the confluence, as the water until this point is flat. With just four days, motoring is an efficient and quicker way to get to the confluence versus using an oared craft. The dories and raft attach themselves to the Snouts to move together. Then, at the confluence, they separate to take on the whitewater individually. Being on the flat water allows suspense and anticipation to build, which makes the rapids climax all the sweeter!
Take In the Sublime Landscape
While on the Snouts, you can leisurely marvel at your surroundings and appreciate the peace and tranquility of this cherished place. It’s an astonishingly scenic journey. The rocks are every shade of red, contrasted with the dazzling blue sky.
You’ll see plenty of interesting formations that the guides will point out. One definitely looked like a howling wolf, and another, a duck. The penguin-like feature seemed out of place in this environment. But then, a pair of eyes from within an immense cliff appeared to stare as we motored by. I told myself it was a benevolent gaze, full of good juju for the rapids to come.
Thelma & Louise Were Here
You’ll also see the cliff where the famous ending scene of the movie, “Thelma & Louise” was filmed. The location is affectionately known as “Thelma & Louise Point.” Word has it the production had three identical 1966 turquoise Ford Thunderbirds ready to capture the shot.
The first car took an unpleasant nosedive right off the cliff. Ridley Scott, the director, axed that take as he wanted to see some air. He signaled for the second car to be launched, and the rest is history. The two vehicles were subsequently pulled out of their watery grave via helicopter.
If you got too hot sitting atop the Snouts, which was often the case, it was easy to jump into the river to cool off. The water temperature averages between 60-70 degrees in the summer. I often went for a swim and constantly soaked my hat, which felt heavenly.
Hikes
Though you’re on the river from morning to late afternoon, there are opportunities to explore on land, too. One day, the guides took us on a trail that led up to a site with Native American ruins, pictographs, and a granary.
Another time, we did the Loop hike up and over a steep canyon wall. Our efforts were rewarded at the top with a dramatic view of a horseshoe formation that the river created through convoluted twists and turns.
Food, Glorious Food
With all the activity and fresh air, you’ll need sustenance. Just know you won’t go hungry! Each meal is delicious and plentiful, and you’ll wonder how the guides manage to concoct the array of tasty dishes in their small outdoor kitchen.
In the mornings, there’s a selection of hot beverages, cereals, yogurt, and fresh fruit to accompany eggs, bacon, pancakes, hash, etc. Lunch is on a sandy beach with make-your-own sandwiches and wraps, salads, fruit, cookies, chips, and more.
Dinner is when the guides show off their kitchen magic with everything from grilled tilapia to chicken and steak with veggies, potatoes, or a rice dish. Vegetarians and those with food restrictions are accommodated without issue. And, of course, there’s dessert. My favorite was the mango carrot cake – yum!
There are plenty of cold beverages, but if you bring your own, including alcohol, a separate cooler is provided. Naturally, water is always available. Guides will tell you to constantly drink up since it’s very dry and often very hot here in the summer months. Dehydration can be a serious problem. The sun is intense, so constant sunscreen application is encouraged.
The Guides Can Do It All
The guides wore many hats on the trip. In addition to being skilled boatmen and women who had to memorize every bend in the rock walls and every twist and kink in the river, along with knowing their way around a kitchen, they also served as knowledgeable resources regarding the area’s geology, history, and conservation. Some were even amateur astronomers and read the night sky for us. Several were musically inclined, providing some much-appreciated entertainment in the evening.
When it came to camping for the night, tents were optional. If a campsite had mosquitos, almost everyone chose to sleep in a tent. If relatively few bugs existed, some folks opted to lie on the sleeping mats under a starlit sky, lulled to the Land of Nod by the sounds of the river.
Learn About the Groover
If you’ve never been on a raft trip, you’re probably curious about the toilet situation. At each campsite, the guides set up two groovers, one on each side of the site. What’s a groover, you ask? It’s essentially a toilet without plumbing. And yes, toilet paper and a hand-washing station are provided.
This outdoor facility was named for the grooves left on your derriere and the back of your thighs after sitting on the “throne.” There’s a system to let others know the groover is in use. We were instructed to pick up the TP box for this trip when heading towards the groover. If the box is missing, it’s a clear “don’t disturb” sign.
A Perfect Ending
On the final day of the trip, we got back on the boats to wind through the last of the miles of the canyon before motoring the “impounded” waters of Lake Powell, held back by Glen Canyon Dam.
After one last lunch, we eventually reached the take-out spot at Hite Crossing. We were then shuttled to an airstrip for our scenic flight back to Moab. This was the icing on the cake, as from our perches high above, we got a birds-eye perspective of the mesmerizing landscape of Canyonlands. It is a great way to end four glorious and memorable days!
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