There are places in the world that feel like stepping into a storybook, and Český Krumlov is one of them.
Nestled in the southern reaches of the Czech Republic, or Czechia, this charming town is a mosaic of medieval architecture, winding cobblestone streets and fairytale towers.
Traveling there from Prague by bus was as seamless as it was scenic. It was a comfortable, efficient and economical way to reach this enchanting destination.
Our stay began at the Mini Hotel Abraka. This delightful little inn in the heart of the old town is just a ten-minute walk from the main bus station.
Tucked into a building dating back to the 1600s and literally built into the city’s castle wall, the inn exuded history and charm. The Czech-German couple who owned the inn made us feel instantly at home.
Our innkeepers took an instant liking to us, taking us for walks to their favorite views and tastes.
While exploring the cobblestone streets with our innkeeper on our first day, we crossed a pedestrian bridge over the Vltava River as he shared how he and his wife met.
“I was a bus driver in Germany, and she rode my route,” he said with a wistful smile. “Then, she moved back home to Český Krumlov. One day, I decided I had to find her, so I drove here and asked around until I found her. That was 40 years ago.”
His romantic story mirrored the charm of the town itself. Beauty can be found in every direction you look: a castle here, a leaning tower there, riverside sunsets, couples walking hand-in-hand over cobblestone bridges.
Off the Beaten (Cobblestone) Path
Our host’s local knowledge led us to hidden treasures. First, he introduced us to a tiny bakery tucked away on a quiet street. The smell of fresh bread and pastries filled the air.
Prices were a fraction of what they were elsewhere, and the sandwiches and sweet rolls became our daily breakfast staples.
Next, we wandered to a secluded garden by the Vltava River. Gentle sounds of flowing water and rustling leaves created a tranquil escape.
The river winds through the town like a ribbon, its surface reflecting the colorful facades of Český Krumlov’s historic buildings. Stone bridges arch gracefully over the water, and cobblestone walkways trace its path, inviting leisurely strolls.
A few steps beyond the main squares and sights, we discovered quiet residential lanes with ivy-covered walls and hidden courtyards. The town’s small size made it feel intimate. However, the abundance of tucked-away corners made every walk feel like a fresh discovery.
Read More: The Insider’s Guide to Prague: Grand Sights, Local Secrets, and Budget-Friendly Tips
Colorful Leaning Tower
Among Český Krumlov’s most captivating features is its colorful, slightly leaning castle tower, which seems to watch over the town like a sentinel. Its pastel hues and frescoed exterior make it instantly recognizable.
We climbed the winding staircase to the top. Here, panoramic views of the town and its picturesque surroundings stretched before us.
The tower’s charm lies not only in its beauty but also in its whimsical lean. It reminds us of the town’s fairytale-like imperfections.
The castle tower first caught our eye as we stood in the small square just outside our inn. Its pastel hues and frescoed exterior instantly made it stand out.
After crossing the Lazebnický Bridge over the Vltava River, we approached the castle complex. The tower’s slight lean became more noticeable as we approached.
The tower’s origins date back to the 13th century, with its Gothic core reflecting the medieval architectural style of that era.
In the late 16th century, under the patronage of Wilhelm von Rosenberg, the tower underwent a significant Renaissance transformation led by Italian architect Baldassare Maggi d’Arogno.
This renovation introduced the elegant arcaded gallery at the top, supported by 19 Tuscan columns. In addition, ornate frescoes were added by court painter Bartoloměj Beránek-Jelínek, depicting figural and architectural motifs that enhance its vibrant façade.
Standing at 54.5 meters tall and perched 86 meters above the Vltava River, the tower offers a commanding view of the surrounding landscape.
Inside, visitors can explore historical features such as a dungeon, a Renaissance tower model and three bells dating from 1406, 1460 and 1671.
Entering through the Red Gate into the first courtyard, we purchased tickets for the Castle Museum and Tower. The museum, opened in 2011, offers exhibits detailing the history of the Lords of Krumlov, the Rosenbergs, and other noble families who shaped the town’s history.
The structure dates back to the 13th century with Renaissance modifications from the late 16th century. After climbing the 162 steps of the tower, we reached the summit.
From this vantage point, 86 meters above the Vltava River, panoramic views of the town and its picturesque surroundings stretched before us.
The tower’s slight lean, though not extensively documented, adds to its character and the town’s fairytale-like imperfections.
Beautiful as the view from the tower was, the best view came as we descended, exited and looked back up at it.
“It’s like the leaning tower of Pisa,” Nataliya said, “only dipped in Easter egg dye.”
We marveled at the beautiful view, half expecting a maiden to let down her golden hair.
Within the Castle Walls
After catching our breath from the tower’s dizzying climb, we wandered deeper into the castle complex.
This place was a big deal long before it became a tourist magnet. Built before 1250 by the Vítkovci family for their leader, Vítek of Krumlov, it was a Gothic fortress meant to keep South Bohemia in check.
The name “Krumlov,” from an old German term for “crooked meadow,” fit the Vltava’s quirky bend perfectly.
In 1302, the Rosenbergs took over, turning the castle into a Renaissance showstopper over three centuries. They were all about art and ideas, hosting guests from poets to alchemists.
By 1602, Emperor Rudolf II had taken over the castle, followed by the Eggenbergs and Schwarzenbergs, who added Baroque flair. After World War II, the state claimed it. In 1992, UNESCO named it a World Heritage treasure for its time-capsule magic.
We strolled through courtyards, where gnarled trees stood like sentries and fountains splashed lazily. The royal apartments sucked us in: frescoed ceilings with frolicking gods, furniture carved to impress, tapestries glowing with color.
The castle’s museums, though, were the real surprise. In the second courtyard, the Castle Museum, opened in 2011, felt like digging through a noble’s attic. We perused Rosenberg jewelry, Schwarzenberg heirlooms, and old letters spilling castle secrets.
“Look at this necklace!” Nataliya said, leaning closer to a glass case.
“Probably out of our price range,” I said.
Down in the Wenceslas Cellars, under the Upper Castle, we ducked into stone vaults that smelled of musky earth. A display of Czech ceramics, sleek, modern designs in medieval digs, caught us off guard.
The museums made the castle’s past feel alive. As we exited the castle, we knew we had one more destination within the complex to visit.
A Dramatic, Living Relic
Among the castle’s most remarkable features is its Baroque Theater. It is one of the oldest and best-preserved theaters of its kind in the world.
The wooden stage, original painted backdrops and intricate pulley systems remain intact, a testament to the craftsmanship of the 18th century.
After sitting in the audience and watching some of the stage’s extraordinary backdrops and special effects from the good seats, we descended below the stage to get a behind-the-scenes glimpse at the intricate rope and pulley system still in use today.
“I wish we had a system like this at school,” Alex said, having been a set designer for some of his high school plays.
Our guide explained that performances were once lit entirely by candlelight, casting flickering shadows across the stage. Performances still take place here to this day, although not on a daily basis.
We weren’t here when a performance was on, but we were glad to have the opportunity to experience the theater tour. Perhaps a performance will be in store on our next visit.
If you want to dive deeper into the castle’s history and the stories behind its ornate architecture, consider joining the Best of Český Krumlov Old Town and Castle Exteriors tour. Led by a local guide, it offers an insightful look at the castle grounds and old town highlights and is a great way to experience the town’s charm through a local’s eyes.
Noble Residents
As we exited the castle, we came upon a small group of people gathered near the moat, their heads craned toward the grassy area. Curious, we joined them and soon spotted a family of bears roaming freely within the rocky and grassy moat.
We overheard the guide of their tour group explaining, “Keeping bears in the moat has been a tradition here at Český Krumlov for centuries, possibly dating back to the 16th century.
It was a common practice among nobility as a symbol of power. They provided entertainment for the castle residents and visitors and served as a deterrent to unwanted guests.”
One of the bears scratched its back against the stone wall below.
The guide continued, “Of course, their care is our top priority now. They have their own designated area and receive excellent veterinary care. They’re a beloved local attraction. You could say they’re treated like royalty.”
Regional Museum and Graphite Mine
The Regional Museum, housed in a historic building, painted a vivid picture of Český Krumlov’s evolution.
Exhibits ranged from medieval artifacts to maps detailing the town’s growth and decline. A particularly poignant section chronicled the Soviet era, when many buildings fell into disrepair, and the revitalization efforts that followed the Velvet Revolution.
For a completely different experience, we ventured into the Graphite Mine. Donning hard hats with headlamps, we climbed into a mine car and rattled into the depths. The ride was pure Indiana Jones, with the metal car clanging and shaking as we descended.
Inside, we explored narrow tunnels, some damp and dripping, others dry and echoing with the sounds of our footsteps. The mine offered a fascinating glimpse into the region’s industrial past.
Egon Schiele Art Centrum
Art enthusiasts will find a treasure trove in the Egon Schiele Art Centrum. The museum is dedicated to the Austrian painter who once lived in Český Krumlov.
The exhibits showcased Schiele’s expressionist works alongside contemporary art inspired by his legacy.
Nataliya, an artist herself, found particular inspiration in the bold lines and emotive energy of Schiele’s pieces.
The museum’s blend of history and modern creativity added another layer to our understanding of the town’s cultural richness.
Dining and Discoveries
Photo by Alexander C. Goodman
Each morning, we found our way to the bakery across the bridge and around the corner, where we had a small breakfast sandwich and a pastry or two.
Evenings in Český Krumlov were spent savoring regional dishes at restaurants in the square.
At Bohema, we enjoyed Krumlovský kapsa, a savory pocket of dough filled with cheese, garlic and spices, paired with hearty potato dumplings and braised cabbage.
Another favorite was garlic soup served in a bread bowl. Its rich flavors warmed us after a day of exploring.
A short walk from the square brought us to Pivovar Eggenberg, a historic brewery where we sampled house lagers brewed on-site.
Beer has been made in Český Krumlov for centuries. Sipping a crisp lager in a vaulted cellar, or in their outdoor beer garden, felt like raising a glass to the town’s enduring spirit.
On our last night, our innkeeper joined us at the brewery for a farewell toast. We sat at long, wooden tables under green shade umbrellas. The coasters beneath our mugs dated the brewery to 1560.
I lifted my mug. “To a wonderful visit.”
“Český Krumlov is special,” he said, raising his glass. “You fell in love with the town. I fell in love with one of its residents. A fairytale worthy of the castle tower.”
For those who want to experience the town’s beer culture more deeply, the 3-hour Krumlov Beer Tour: Brewery, Pubs, Beer and Food (+Beer Bath) offers a guided visit through a historic brewery and several local pubs, complete with tastings of Czech craft beers and classic pub snacks.
A Fairytale Farewell
Before departing, we took one last walk along the river, its surface shimmering with reflections of the castle and tower. The town seemed to bid us goodbye with every cobblestone step and colorful facade.
As the bus carried us away from this fairytale city, we glanced at the castle and its colorful, leaning tower as it receded into the hills.
Český Krumlov is the kind of place that stays with you. Its charm lingers like the last note of a perfect melody or the aftertaste of a good craft brew.
If You Go
Outside Prague, Český Krumlov is one of the most charming places to visit in Czechia. It makes a great addition for any visit to the Czech Republic.
For a charming and affordable stay in the heart of Český Krumlov, you can’t go wrong with the Mini Hotel Abraka. It’s a cozy inn with a personal touch, housed in a 17th-century building that was once part of the castle wall.
There are a host of similar inns and rooms for rent in the walkable old town.
Getting to Český Krumlov from Prague is easy by car, bus, or train. We took Flixbus, a comfortable, economical, and efficient option for a scenic journey through southern Bohemia.
Once in town, everything is within walking distance, including kayak and raft rentals, should you wish to explore the Vltava River from a different perspective.
During the summer, Český Krumlov’s outdoor theater with a revolving auditorium stages unique performances with a forest backdrop, adding yet another layer to this already magical destination.
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Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman is the author of seven books. His most recent, Faraway Tables, was an Amazon Bestseller (#1 in Poetry ebooks, May 2025). The poems are focused on travel and a longing for other places. Learn more about Eric and his writing at EricDGoodman.com
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