As our 25-person travel group from Rose State College, Oklahoma, disembarked from the cruise ship Celestyal Discovery, I was happy to revisit Central Crete and see its changes since being stationed at Iraklion Air Station as an Air Force Airman in 1991.
Central Crete is the geographical heart of Greece’s largest island and was also the cultural and historical epicenter of Europe’s first advanced civilization. This region, with the bustling capital of Heraklion, offers travelers an opportunity to walk in the footsteps of the ancient Minoans while enjoying thoroughly modern Greek hospitality.
Curious visitors are rewarded with archaeological treasures that predate the Parthenon by centuries. In addition, there are traditional mountain villages where time seems suspended, as well as stunning landscapes.
Central Crete delivers an authentic Greek experience where ancient mythology meets living culture.
Touring Heraklion
Iraklio (Heraklion), the capital, is big (the 4th largest city in Greece) and busy (tourist-packed May-September). Quite frankly, its modern, commercialized areas aren’t the most attractive, but the historical areas really shine.
A good starting point for visits is the city’s harbor. Here you can photograph the pretty boats while walking to the 16th-century Venetian fortress (Koules). The two-story high fort can be visited and provides good views of Heraklion.
Then, head to the Morosini Fountain’s lions and carved friezes at the Platieia Eleftherias (Fountain Square), which marks the city’s historical center. It’s a relaxing spot to sip iced coffee and try some local food.
Photo by www.oreotravel.com
Some Cretan specialities are sfakianopita (pies filled with cheese and honey), bougatsa (pastry), and moussaka (layers of fried potatoes, eggplant, and zucchini, topped with ground meat).
If an outdoor market appeals to you, nearby Odlo’s 1866 sells thousands of food, clothing and souvenir items from hundreds of stalls.
Museums
I recommend visiting at least one museum to understand Crete. The Historical Museum (sculptures, war, folklife), the Natural History Museum (wildlife – great for families) or the Archaeological Museum are all good options.
For 20€, the Archaeological Museum offers a comprehensive overview of ancient Crete’s history, featuring Minoan artifacts dating back up to 3000 years. There’s gold jewelry too – don’t miss the bee pendant – and wonderful frescos, such as bull jumping and a “Ladies in Blue” painting from Knossos.
Thousands of coins, bronze shields and other Classical, Hellenistic and Roman artifacts wait for you. My favorites included pithoi, clay storage jars for oil, wine, grain, and dried fruits, and larnax, which are carved containers that held human remains, like early versions of a coffin.
Ashley Halko, one of our Rose State travelers, said, “It’s well organized by period and location.”
City Walls
Heraklion is surrounded by protective Venetian walls built in the 16th century. These are worth a quick visit, especially the Martinengo Bastion. Nikos Kazantzakis, a famous Greek who wrote the book “Zorba the Greek,” is buried here.
Palace of Knossos
There’s a good reason the Palace of Knossos, three miles south of Heraklion, is the second most visited historical site in Greece (first: Athens’ Parthenon). The palace, built by the Minoans, includes an amazing network of apartments, storerooms and courts. The 15% that has been excavated at Knossos is impressive.
There were 1,300 rooms in its three-and four-story high structures for the 600 royal family, priests and soldier residents. Sir Arthur Evans, Knossos’ primary excavator, added concrete to missing walls and roofs so we can see what once was. Incredibly, the original carved stone throne survived.
Visitor Comments
Marna Santos, one of our group, summarized Knossos’ meaning. “A small place but powerful,” she stated.
Sherri Mussatto, a humanities professor who teaches mythology at Rose State and one of two Trip Guides, said, “It’s hard to imagine, 2000 B.C., and we’re walking the same spot as the ancient Minoans.”
Her cohort, Janice Andrews, another Rose State professor, said, “It was exciting to see those inverted columns and see the floor plan because I teach this and read about it in the textbooks.”
Beaches and Kids’ Activities
Northern coastal Beaches? There’s plenty east and west of town, easily accessible from the national highway, with soft sand to lie on and warm water to swim in. Some are topless, some not.
Two made-for-kids activities are the CRETAquarium in Gournes (where my old Iraklion Air Base stood, 10 miles east of Heraklion) and the Acqua Plus Water Park.
At CRETAquarium, you can see 2,000 marine creatures from 200 different species amongst the 5,000 square meter facility. It’s well worth the 12€; there’s even a virtual reality experience.
Acqua Plus Water Park has dozens of slides and pools. It’s located in Hersonissos, 15 miles east of Heraklion.
Wineries
Crete has at least two dozen wineries close to Heraklion worth visiting. According to the “Completely Crete” website, the best wineries are in Peza, known for dry white and red wine, Arhanes, for dry red wine, Dafnes, for dry and sweet red wines and Sitia, for dry and sweet red wines.
The wine can be pretty strong with 13-14% alcohol. Most of the Cretan wine I drank was smooth and dry, like a Chardonnay.
Lasithi Plateau
If you have half a day, drive to the Lasithi Plateau, 32 miles southeast of Heraklion. After climbing its hill and reaching 2,800 feet, you’ll be rewarded with at least 15 small, traditional villages on a 14-mile circular road.
Here, Cretans sell embroidery and rugs in the towns and windmills pump water. Its slow-paced visit was refreshing, like traveling back 100 years in time.
If you love mythology, be sure to descend to the Cave of Dikteon by the town of Psychro, where mythology says Zeus, king of the gods, was born.
The Minoans worshiped here amongst the stalagmites, stalactites, and the lake. Warning: the descent to the cave is steep and if you’re claustrophobic, it’s not for you. It’s dark, damp, and eerie.
Southwest of Heraklion
A much-visited religious site is Arkadi Monastery, in Rethymno, 19 miles southwest of Heraklion. With a beautiful Renaissance façade, Corinthian columns, and a bell tower built in the 16th century, it is one of Crete’s most beautiful monasteries.
Do you want to visit a laid-back, beach town with ancient caves and the nearby Minoan Palace of Phaistos? Matala, 42 miles southwest of Heraklion, offers a pebbly but accessible-to-town beach in the harbor. There is also the one-mile-long, semi-nude, sand Kommos Beach five miles away, near Pitsidia.
Ten hotels and 15 restaurants/tavernas offer hospitality and food. You can explore dozens of 2nd-century Roman cave tombs cut into the town’s limestone.
Your memories and photographs of Central Crete will delight you for years, even if you only have a one-day excursion to try it out.
Kaliméra (good day).
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Author Bio: Richard Stephens, Jr., is a freelance journalist based out of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. He writes about military veterans, seniors, Route 66 and other interesting things “out there.” Website: richtravelniche.com, Instagram: richardstephens24.
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