Two decades ago, my wife Fyllis and I visited the British Virgin Islands. We checked out their inviting beaches, visited historic and nature-made sites, and oohed and aahed at the magnificent scenery.
During our recent return trip there, we relived those experiences. We also enjoyed others, which make this a welcoming destination for those seeking to combine a typical sun, surf and sand vacation with opportunities to delve into intriguing touches of Caribbean culture.
What’s missing in the BVI, as locals refer to their home? High-rise hotels, gambling casinos, chain restaurants and the commercialism found at many Caribbean destinations.
Available in large quantity are almost vertical mountainous hills over which roads rise and fall, twist and turn. With many stretches that are more pothole than pavement, and the fact that vehicles drive on the British side, we recommend taking taxis and tour buses rather than renting a car.
Inviting Beaches and Much More in the British Virgin Islands
The first place many visitors head for are the beaches which come in sizes and amenities to meet most tastes. Cane Garden Bay combines a swath of inviting sand with a wide choice of water-based activities. Smuggler’s Cove is fringed by cactus and palm trees and offers good snorkeling far from shore.
A good place to delve into BVI history is the capital of Road Town, on Tortola. The Virgin Islands Folk Museum brims with pre-Columbian artifacts that were used by people who once inhabited the islands. Stories it tells also include tales of pirates and buccaneers who found a home base for seeking quick treasure, and British colonists who came to stay.
The J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens is an oasis of tropical plants that represent the different habitats of the BVI. Given the lush foliage that proliferates everywhere, even such a magnificent garden seemed almost redundant to me.
Photo by Victor Block
One hidden gem which many visitors miss is the Jenesis Studio. It showcases paintings of BVI life, some of which also decorate a mural that stretches along a roadside wall nearby. Some aspects of life in the BVI decades ago are represented in lifelike dioramas. Behind the building is a garden of tropical herbs and medicinal plants with signs indicating what ailments each has been used to treat.
Take Time to Visit British Virgin Islands Other Than Tortola
We also took time to visit three other inhabited islands, of some 60 that comprise the BVI. Because of its coral and limestone topography, contrasting with the volcanic origin of the others, Anegada is rimmed by the loveliest sparkling sand beaches. It’s surrounded by colorful reefs and old shipwrecks, making it a popular dive and snorkeling destination.
Virgin Gorda offers remnants of early African, Spanish and Indian settlements but is best known for a geologic formation called “the Baths.” This collection of large granite boulders piled on a beach form a series of scenic grottoes.
Jost Van Dyke, said to be named for a Dutch privateer, makes up in attractions what it lacks in size (about 3.5 square miles). It’s dotted by the ruins of early sugar mills and laced with early explorer footpaths. But the virtual worldwide reputation of this tiny enclave also rests upon the Soggy Dollar Bar. This nondescript but inviting beach watering hole reputedly is the birthplace of the highly popular local beverage known as the Painkiller.
The establishment’s name came from the fact that before a road had been built, people docked their boat nearby, swam to shore and paid their bar bill with wet paper money taken from their pocket.
The British Virgin Islands are a Paradise for Boaters
Those folks were early participants in an activity for which the BVI is world-famous. Along with the usual leisure pursuits expected in the Caribbean — sunning and swimming, snorkeling and diving, and much more — the British Virgin Islands are known as a virtual paradise for boaters.
The first visitors came by sea. Since then, the consistent trade winds, clear water and countless islands close enough to navigate by sight have combined to make the archipelago known as the sailing capital of the Caribbean.
For many people, the islands serve as a stopover before they rent a catamaran or sailboat and head out. Sea-faring visitors can discover tucked-away coves, deserted beaches and other attractions unavailable to landlubbers.
Even so, we highly recommend spending time on the islands. Each has its own scenic appeal, variety of activities and intriguing chapters of history to relate.
Our stay at the Wyndham Tortola Lambert Beach Resort introduced us to much that the BVI offers. The property fronts an outstanding beach and offers an inviting pool, both lined by sheltering cabanas, low-rise accommodations set amidst Caribbean foliage and gourmet dining.
A favorite food find was the Coconut Lounge in Road Town, which overlooks the harbor. My personal favorites were the coconut-crusted shrimp and seafood pasta.
For more information, contact wyndhamhotels.com and bvitourism.com.
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