Exploring Stockholm: A Blend of Old and New
Founded in 1252, Stockholm melds its Old-World ethos with a lively, contemporary vibe. It’s a city where travelers of any age and interest can find plenty to see and do, whether stopping for a day off a cruise ship or exploring for a few days before heading elsewhere, as we did.
It was my second time in Stockholm, and though much of what I did was new, I also returned to my favorite way to pass the time in the city: wandering around Old Town with no particular agenda.
Where to Start Your Visit in Stockholm
Start where Stockholm itself began, the compact island of Gamla Stan, aka Old Town, the city’s beating heart. (Visit Sweden – Stockholm Old Town).
Stately 17th and 18th-century buildings in a palette of artists’ colors line cobbled streets where throngs of locals and visitors shop, dine, and visit museums and historic sites. Strolling down the narrow alleys unencumbered by an agenda or timetable is, in mind, the perfect way to see Gamla Stan, but agenda lovers should be sure to include the Royal Palace and Storkyrkan, Stockholm’s oldest church with a glorious Saint George & the Dragon sculpture.
Along Stortorget, the oldest square, are shops, restaurants, and the imposing Nobel Prize Museum. For excellent coffee, tea, and pastries, duck into cozy Grillska Huset with its overstuffed chairs and lamps topped with shades of distinctly Swedish design. I opted for the petite prinsesstårta (princess cake) for a delicious taste of Sweden, but there are many more choices.
Candy shops and touristy stores crowd Gamla Stan, but in between are one-of-a-kind places like the Museum of the Wooden Horse, dedicated to Sweden’s ubiquitous hand-painted symbol—yes, you should take one home.
Islands of the Archipelago
The best overview of Stockholm is arguably an archipelago boat tour. Aside from rolling photo-op scenery, knowledgeable onboard historians provide compelling commentary and context for sights on both sides as the boat glides by.
One island to look for is Djurgården, home to the world’s oldest open-air museum. Skansen transports visitors back in time via costumed interpreters, historic buildings, farmsteads, and activities. It’s a must-see for families but a treat for everyone.
Arts & Culture
Another must-see: Stunning Fotografiska, the Contemporary Museum of Photography, Art & Culture. In addition to superb photography, thought-provoking exhibits and programming, the museum houses a fantastic contemporary restaurant dedicated to sustainability. The menu is heavily vegetarian, though meat, fish, and poultry are available. There’s also a bistro where museumgoers can gather for a casual lunch, snacks, or more.
And then there’s Svenskt Tenn, an extravaganza of colors and patterns. Even if home décor is not of consuming interest, you’ll find something to love in this singularly Swedish emporium filled with fabrics and décor featuring the company’s signature bold graphics.
Once you see the designs, you’ll find them everywhere in town. Tableware and dining accessories are front and center, but interesting wall hooks, drawer knobs, jewelry, scarves, and more will catch your eye. I could meander through this store endlessly—there’s something unexpected around every corner.
Where to Stay in Stockholm
Embrace the Nordic aesthetic by lodging at independent hotels in the eclectic collection of Nordic Hotels & Resorts. Nordic Light, a lifestyle brand and my favorite, exudes contemporary brightness with blond woods and a minimalist aesthetic. Comfortable and welcoming, it’s ideal for those traveling for work or play. Hotel C, across the street, is the place to chill, literally, with a cocktail in an authentic ice bar off the lobby, parkas provided (Icebar Stockholm).
In the luxury group, At Six offers modern luxury and evocative artwork, plus excellent service and dining. Next door, Hobo, another lifestyle hotel, sports a hip, high-energy rooftop scene that heats up at night, though sunset beckons, too.
Most interesting is Yasuragi in the resort/retreat group, a Japan-inspired spa experience on the island of Varmdo, a short drive from Stockholm. Like all the other guests, I strolled about in a yukata (a Japanese robe) and slippers. I was drawn to the steamy hot pools, but meditation, yoga, and massages are also available. High above the archipelago with sweeping views, Yasuragi is an unexpected immersion in Japanese culture surrounded by all things Swedish.
Browse Accommodations in Stockholm
Where to Eat in Stockholm
Speaking of all things Swedish, did I mention meatballs? Prinsen is the go-to for classic cuisine, including Swedish meatballs, lingonberries, and herring, plus an extensive beverage list. Although opened in 1897, Prinsen is a Parisian-esque bistro that feels timeless. Old Town has endless pub options, including a Viking Bar, but historic Den Gyldene Freden (Den Gyldene Freden), lit only by candles that barely cast a glow in the dark interior, offers the satisfying ambiance of an ancient pub.
By luck, we scored a table in the far corner. Turns out that was where Cornelis Vreeswijk, Sweden’s famed troubadour, liked to drink his beer and maybe, I imagine, scribble drafts of his songs and poems. A plaque with his name hangs on the wall above the table. We ordered Swedish beer and toasted our time in Stockholm, perhaps inspired by Vreeswijk to return home and write our own odes to this grande dame city of islands. Skål!
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Author Bio: Colorado-based Christine Loomis is a freelance writer and editor who covers travel, culture, and lifestyle. She has been on staff at multiple national magazines, including two stints as editor-in-chief. Christine writes frequently for AAA publications and contributes to outlets including TravelAge West, Discover by Silversea, and Corporate & Incentive Travel magazine. Her work has also appeared in two anthologies, including The Best Women’s Travel Writing, Volume 11 (2017). She’s a long-time member of SATW (the Society of American Travel Writers).
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