The tires had barely stopped rolling when I threw the truck into park, flung my door open, and ran a dozen steps across the small asphalt parking lot with my arm waving frantically in the air, directed at the Rock Island ferry, located in northeast Wisconsin.
The first mate fixed me with a brief, dismissive glance before turning his back on me, as the engines roared to life, leaving me standing there staring at its watery wake.
A charming, stately woman, relaxing in her sunlit chair outside the small gift and sundry shop she was manning, commented cheerily, “Those ferries don’t wait for anyone. They churn and burn.”
“When is the next ferry?” I queried. “Not for two hours,” she replied, smiling. Ugh!
It was another missed opportunity in a morning filled with mistimed schedules and wrong turns. I was beginning to realize what had drawn Hjortur “Chester” Thordarson to the little wooded, rock-strewn isle at the mouth of Green Bay off the tip of Door County.
Door County’s Remote Appeal
Located in the Midwest of the United States, Door County is framed on three sides by beaches and bluffs.
It’s celebrated for its picturesque small towns, colorful orchards, scenic beauty, and Scandinavian-style fish boils.
Often called the “Cape Cod of the Midwest,” it attracts nearly three million visitors a year.
In the midst of this, 975-acre Rock Island is so tiny and remote, it makes you believe you’re somewhere else.
The remoteness provides a respite from the hustle and bustle of today’s go-go world. It also requires no small effort if you intend to visit.
Read More: Why You Should Visit Door County, Wisconsin This Winter
The Icelandic Inventor Behind Rock Island
Hjortur Thordarson was an émigré from Iceland, having followed his family to the States when he was five years old.
At 20, after dropping out of school, Thordarson worked for several electric companies in Chicago.
In 1895, at 27 and with seventy-five dollars in savings, he founded the Thordarson Electric Manufacturing Company in Chicago.
This could easily have been just another rags-to-riches story with little bearing on our failed ferry connection.
However, as his wealth grew, he and his wife bought most of Rock Island, just off the shores of its larger cousin, Washington Island, at the tip of the Door County peninsula.
Originally home to a band of Pottawatomi and a small fishing village of the first Europeans in the area, it reminded him of the green, rocky fjords of his homeland.
He hoped to develop it into a retreat for himself and friends to escape the city and enjoy “…wild plant and animal life in undisturbed wilderness…”
After his death, the island was acquired by the State of Wisconsin for a state park.
If you’re looking to explore more of the region’s scenic beauty and local history, consider Door County’s Northern Peninsula: A Self-Guided Drive for an easy, immersive way to experience the area.
The Two-Ferry Journey Begins
Although my wife, Kathy, and I have traveled to the peninsula for well over a decade, we had never ventured to the northernmost island of Door County.
We woke early to a brisk morning that promised clear skies and a warming sun.
With a packed lunch, we grabbed our hiking shoes and headed to Northport at the end of the peninsula to catch the 8:00 am ferry, the first of the day, for the 20-minute ride to Washington Island.
The Washington ferry is the first of two ferries it takes to get to Rock Island. The Rock Island ferry, the second one, wouldn’t leave until 10:00 am.
With the cruise itself, time for loading and unloading, then a 15-minute drive across the island to Jackson Harbor for the second ferry, we thought we had allowed ourselves plenty of time. Little did we know.
Both ferries board on a first-come, first-served basis, so when we pulled into the Northport loading area, I knew events might not go our way.
The ferry can handle between 15 and 22 standard cars. Delivery and construction trucks cut into that total quickly.
Ahead of us was a long line of early morning visitors and business trucks.
While purchasing our tickets, we were informed that we and several other latecomers would have to await the next ferry, scheduled in an hour. Our first delay.
With an hour to kill, we and many fellow travelers started exploring our surroundings.
I noticed a prominent sign on the rear of an SUV declaring newlyweds, so I went over and congratulated the groom, who gave me a perplexed look before remembering the signage.
We soon discussed our adventures in Door County. The pair was also looking forward to their first trip to Rock Island.
Above our heads, a pair of bald eagles circled the gleaming waters below before landing on the rocky shore. Things were looking up.
Soon we were boarding the 82-ton ferry, “Washington.”
After shoehorning our car, with the help of precision guidance from the crew, into a tightly knit line of others, we exited the car to enjoy the trip from the top deck.
Death’s Door and the Island Crossing
The distance from Northport pier on the northern tip of the Door Peninsula to Washington Island’s Detroit Harbor is just a few miles, but the 30-minute peaceful ride seems to drive the cares of the day away with the gentle breeze.
Between the shores, the quiet waters are surprisingly known as Death’s Door.
They earned this dark title when sailing vessels could not outrun the powerful storms that occasionally strike the area, leaving in their wake several shipwrecks.
In the distance, we could see Pilot Island and Plum Island, home to lighthouses that once helped guide those very ships through the strait linking Lake Michigan and Green Bay.
A Detour, Newlyweds, and Schoolhouse Beach
As we docked at Washington’s Detroit Harbor, we quickly reentered our car and exited the ferry.
Time was tight, so we headed off quickly across the island to meet the Rock Island ferry.
I noticed our honeymooner couple directly ahead of us. Knowing they were headed to the same destination, I decided to follow.
I should have looked at a map.
Before long, I became concerned we might not be headed on the most direct route.
When our would-be guide stopped to ask for directions from an elderly dog walker, we realized we had overestimated his knowledge of the island.
I checked a map, made a couple of quick adjustments, and barreled into Jackson Harbor, where I had frantically tried to wave down the departing ferry.
After sharing a few laughs about our misguided fortunes with the newlyweds, we decided to explore Washington Island’s Schoolhouse Beach.
Instead of sand, this beach features small white, polished stones, one of only five beaches in the world with these unique limestone pebbles shaped by thousands of years of wind and waves.
After lunch, we scrambled into the small ferry with several other adventurers, this time with minutes to spare. Soon we were chugging off to our destination.
First Impressions of Rock Island
On Rock Island, there are no roads and no cars packed with tourists. Bicycles are not even allowed.
There are no vending machines, let alone convenience stores. If you need it, you come prepared.
If camping, which is allowed, you pack everything in and out.
As we inched closer to our destination, the gap-toothed grin of a magnificent stone boathouse greeted us.
Inside Thordarson’s Viking Hall
Completed in 1929 by Thordarson, the boathouse is one of many structures he planned for the island, but the only one of substance completed.
The Depression and declining health curtailed his plans for the 100-room hotel he had sketched out but never began.
The lower level of the boathouse can accommodate two 50-foot yachts.
Atop it, rising 65 feet above the water, is the massive room known as the Viking Hall, reminiscent of buildings of his beloved Iceland.
Rows of arched, soaring windows line the limestone walls.
A wide veranda outside overlooks the water, and an inside balcony stretches the width of the building and overlooks the great hall filled with hand-carved furnishings.
Hiking to the Historic Pottawatomie Lighthouse
Afterwards, we started off toward the 1858 Pottawatomie Lighthouse, one of the oldest in Wisconsin.
As we walked along the west side of the island, the trail gradually became steeper, rising with the island until reaching its highest point upon a bluff, 137 feet above the waters of Green Bay and Lake Michigan.
Beyond a fancifully decorated driftwood gate, we walked beneath a canopy of maple and beech leaves, which kept the heat of the midday sun off our necks.
As we entered the lighthouse clearing, a pair of turkey vultures rode the thermals, circling high above.
A Keeper’s Tour and Panoramic Views
Inside, we met Peter, one of the volunteer keepers.
Volunteers stay for a week at a time in the lighthouse and give tours seven days a week from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm.
With no electricity and no indoor plumbing, this is quite the volunteer experience.
He gave us a tour of the house and then into the claustrophobic, narrow confines of the tower itself.
He explained how buckets of melted lard or kerosene had to be hand-carried to the top to feed the bright light.
Our strenuous climb was rewarded with unbelievable views of the lake. On the horizon, a Great Lakes freighter could be seen.
Outside, I clambered down the 100-or-so wooden steps to the shore beneath the bluff. The waters were pristine.
Exploring Trails, History, and Quiet Corners
There are nearly 10 miles of trails on the island.
On the east side are the remnants of the former fishing village and another Thordarson creation, a stone water tower.
The island’s small cemeteries are here too, the final resting place of past villagers, lighthouse keepers, and Thordarson himself.
The Return Trip (and One More Missed Ferry)
We had to hurry to catch our ferry and repeat the process of returning to the mainland.
Wouldn’t you know, we missed our connecting Washington Island ferry and had to wait for the next one?
Oh, well.
Rock Island’s appeal comes from its remoteness.
It takes a certain amount of effort and timing to get there.
But the wonders, both natural and man-made, create an enchanting world that makes occasionally missing the ferry well worth it.
Read More: Winter’s Wonderland: Exploring Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Parks
Ferry Schedules and Helpful Tips
Rock Island sits off the northern tip of Wisconsin’s Door Peninsula in Door County, about 150 miles north of Green Bay. Reaching it requires two separate ferry rides.
1. Washington Island Ferry
(First leg: Door Peninsula → Washington Island)
Schedule: Departs hourly from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm
Details: Cars are allowed
Fares:
- Adult: $15
- Child (6–11): $8
- Auto (occupants not included): $30
2. Rock Island Ferry
(Second leg: Washington Island → Rock Island)
Schedule: Departs every two hours starting at 10:00 am
Details: Passenger-only — no cars or bikes
Fares:
- Child (6–11): $6
- Adult: $15
- Adult camper with gear: $20
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