The palapa stood several meters out into the surf. Beneath its thatched roof hung two well-worn swings.
The morning sun had just broken above the shimmering horizon, sending its yellow and orange fingers splaying through the dawn’s smoky grey clouds, framing the ancient palm fronds in a colorful halo.
I couldn’t help but wonder, as I stood upon an empty Punta Cana beach, if the empty seats were a metaphor for the vacant chairs at the next board meeting. Or was it just the musings of a newly minted retiree still trying to find his way.
Secrets Cap Cana Resort
My wife and I had joined some thirty or so work companions at a resort in Cap Cana, the exclusive, gated, luxury community just south of Punta Cana at the easternmost tip of the Dominican Republic.
It was a reward for services well rendered, goals exceeded, and objectives obtained. But for two of us, it was also in recognition of careers winding down, new chapters in our lives being written.
Our resort was the Secrets Cap Cana, an all-inclusive enclave which boasts 457 suites, two pools, and an array of restaurants, bars, and grills.
As I stepped from the bus that had delivered us from the airport, I was immediately impressed by the elegant stone and wood lobby with a shallow stream splitting it down the middle, its small footbridges providing access to both halves.
At the end of the lobby, the resort spread out before us. The trade winds enveloped the lobby, kissing our sun-warmed bodies with a cooling welcome.
Someone slipped a tropical drink into our hands.
Welcome to a Dominican paradise!
Our Room at Cap Cana
We were guided to the 5th floor of building 5 with a view of the pool and beach. The decor was an easy-going Caribbean chic with a palette of pastel colors. We were in a Junior Suite Ocean View, which had a bed, a sitting area, and a balcony equipped with an outsized daybed and a jacuzzi.
The bathroom was tremendous, with a massive shower with two rain showerheads. The fridge was always stocked with water, soft drinks, and Presidente beer.
Strolling Juanillo Beach
Each day began before dawn with me making my way to the gym for an hour in order to stave off the slovenly sloth, if only briefly, that I fully intended to practice.
Afterward, I would meet my wife for a walk on Juanillo Beach. Save for a few like-minded early morning beach strollers, we had its pristine, powdery white sands to ourselves.
The iridescent turquoise waters were flanked by gigantic palm trees. Beneath us, our feet wrote a trail into the sand, only to be erased by the surf that lapped at our ankles or the occasional wave that broke across our knees, leaving behind a fresh canvas for the next couple.
Its beauty was maintained by a small, diligent army each morning, who were tasked with collecting the flotsam and jetsam deposited each night by the rising tides. Waterlogged coconuts, bits of driftwood, the occasional indestructible plastic bottle, and the ubiquitous, always-present rafts of seaweed.
With an array of rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows, and a sophisticated piece of equipment towed behind a tractor, the piles of offending discards were removed, leaving behind the picture-perfect beach that all demanding tourists, including ourselves, valued.
Embracing Dominican Warmth
We had escaped the final throes of winter in America’s Midwest, leaving behind frigid temps, grey skies, and a lifeless landscape. In Cap Cana, we found green, fertile grounds with an array of entertaining birds thriving beneath vivid blue skies.
We quickly slipped into a routine meant to restart body and mind. Following our beach stroll and breakfast, we would wander to the pool and meet up with Mike, the other honored retiree, and his wife, Katie.
Juan would come bounding over with exuberant energy to spread our towels, adjust the chaise lounges to our liking, and arrange the umbrellas so there was shade where needed and sun where wanted.
He would remind us that he was the number one cabana boy, no one else, and to ask for him if we needed anything.
Soon after, Patrice would appear behind an ebullient smile and a tray of umbrella drinks for “My Ladies” and Presidentes, the local beer often referred to as Dominican Water, for Mr. Frank and Mr. Mike.
If you’re going to embrace the resort life, go all the way!
Relaxing by the Pool
When you’re seeking relief from the wrath of winter, the pool is a key factor in restoring your balance. The Secrets’ sprawling pool is really three pools that are separated by spillways, culminating in an infinity-edge pool that overlooks the beach.
But what’s so great about the massive pool complex is that there are numerous indentations and corners to it, so our little bit of space seemed exclusive.
Former coworkers would drift into and out of the area, referring to it as retiree corner, with salutations, short conversations, and shared smiles, but for the most part, we enjoyed a certain amount of privacy.
Mike and I had long ago settled into a companionship based on shared responsibilities, comparable temperaments, and similar life experiences. Our wives had long since become friends.
We easily picked up threads of conversations where we had left off weeks or months before, as the sun made its slow trek across the sky.
Resort Activities and Classes
When the sun-induced somnolence became too much, there were active options to wake the spirit. Each day a list of available activities would be posted and texted. Kathy took advantage of the Larimar class. Larimar is a semi-precious stone that is only found in the southwest of the Dominican Republic.
Donning gloves and glasses, she deburred and polished a small teardrop-shaped stone into a turquoise green gem. Adding a thin black cord, she walked away with a necklace of memories.
Both girls attended the pottery class. As I looked on, guided by the calloused hands of the skilled potter, Kathy massaged a pile of clay into a recognizable form.
Her hands coated in the burnt orange of the wet clay, she was soon etching “Punta Cana” into her small bowl that we eventually set out on our room’s patio to sun-dry.
Fine Dining at Secrets
At the end of each day, we gathered ourselves together, freshened up, and headed out for dinner. When it comes to vacation dining, you hope for new experiences, tempting variety, and, above all, a good meal. Secrets did not disappoint.
Our first evening, we found traditional Mexican cuisine at El Patio. The chips with Pico de Gallo were tasty, but the fish tacos were exceptional.
Portofino is the Italian restaurant. Kathy and I shared Caprese salad, bacon-wrapped shrimp, and seared salmon with risotto. Excellent.
Bordeaux was the French-inspired restaurant. I ordered red snapper; Kathy had the sea bream. Both were very well prepared. The highlights were their desserts; the crème brûlée was very good. However, Kathy referred to the chocolate molten cake with ice cream as “life-changing.”
Moonlit Beach Dinner
One of our last nights, our group all gathered on the beach for a moonlit dinner party. With a three-piece reggae band providing island vibes, we settled into energetic conversations, sharing the days’ experiences and, for a few, some travails. The moon provided a soft glow.
These were people I had known for decades or just several months, but we all shared the experiences of work with its challenges and rewards. Most of them I would never see again. It was a sobering moment.
To end the night, we went to the resort’s indoor amphitheater for the 9:00 p.m. show, a tribute to Queen. The music was excellent, but I struggled with the Latin bent that the singer lent to his Freddie Mercury interpretation. Oh well, when in Rome, etc.
Read More: Beyond the Beach: The Culinary and Visual Treasures of Santo Domingo
Reflections on Retirement
The final morning had found me at the beach, watching the sunrise with my reflections. Goodbyes and new chapters can be equally disconcerting.
As we waited in line to board our flight to leave, the founder’s son, who I had watched grow from a youth in the warehouse into the accomplished president of the company, fixed me with a Cheshire grin and said, “Back to the old reality tomorrow.”
“For you,” I responded. His grin wavered momentarily before he burst into laughter.
For me, I start a new reality.
If You Go
Getting There: Secrets Cap Cana is about 20 minutes from Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ). The easiest way to get there is by private transfer — Amstar is a popular option — or by taxi, which typically runs under $20.
Where to Stay: Secrets Cap Cana Resort & Spa is an adults-only, all-inclusive property set within the exclusive gated community of Cap Cana, right on Juanillo Beach.
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