Watching the English television series Doc Martin, I fell in love not with the doctor, but with the region of England known as Cornwall. It all seemed too idyllic to be real. If you only have two days to spare, here is how to have your own love affair with Cornwall.
Cornwall is a large peninsula in the southwest corner of England that is rugged and idyllic at the same time. What makes Cornwall so special? Cornish, in fact, used to be a language all its own. Today, locals have a distinctive accent that you won’t hear in other parts of the country.
There are dozens and dozens of villages to choose from when planning a trip. My two favorite towns on the north coast of the peninsula are Port Isaac and Tintagel. For reference, Tintagel is a four-and-a-half-hour drive southwest from London.
Driving in Cornwall
One unique feature worth experiencing is driving on a road that connects nearly any of the small villages in the county. These single-lane roads are lined by massive walls of green hedges on both sides. The hedges act as a natural fencing system.
As you navigate blind curve after blind curve, unable to see over the greenery, you will feel that you are in the most uninhabited, rural place that time ever forgot.
Accommodation Options
Lodging options include small inns or taking a room above a pub, which is common in small-town England. I chose a short-term rental for the weekend. It was the renovated annex of a farmhouse, which is also a common arrangement for travelers in rural England.
It was economical, unique, and relaxing. For me, nothing could beat stepping out onto my private deck and watching the fields roll down to meet the sea.
Port Isaac
Despite its diminutive size, Port Isaac has two claims to fame. First, it serves as the fictional town of Port Wenn in the TV show, Doc Martin. As a fan of the show, I was overjoyed to find that the quaint, unspoiled views are nature-created, not computer-generated.
This fishing village is also known as the home of the singing group Fisherman’s Friends. The group is also the subject of a movie of the same name, which was also filmed in Port Isaac.
Built before vehicular traffic, the streets are so narrow and steep that it is not recommended for visitors to drive. Instead, there are two public car parks where visitors can pay to park for the day. Seeing this working fishing village on foot is really the best way to appreciate the little shops, pubs, and pasty shops.
Be sure to fuel up for your explorations by buying a traditional Cornish pasty or having breakfast at The Chapel Café (a beautifully restored church turned cafe). After breakfast, consider taking a sightseeing cruise with Wavehunters.
Adventurous Exploration
Adventurous visitors can also follow a footpath and climb the steps to the top of the cliff that overlooks the town. My hike took less than 30 minutes, and I was rewarded with the best village view anywhere. Just like that, I was in love.
Here, you can also walk a portion of the South West Coast Path, often named one of the most beautiful walks in the world.
Best Cornwall Tours & Excursions
Tintagel
If Port Isaac is all about myths and shanties passed from one weather-worn generation to the next, then Tintagel is about legends and whispers of the past never quite proven. You see, this is the place where King Arthur is said to have been born.
However, researchers have never quite proven that it’s true or, in fact, that King Arthur was real at all.
For centuries, the town of Tintagel was cut off from the tiny island where Arthur was said to have been conceived and born. In 2019, the organization English Heritage completed a landmark project, a suspension bridge that connects the little island to the mainland for the first time in centuries.
The Legend of King Arthur
A traveler can’t avoid the voices of the past here. Where was the round table at which Arthur strategized with his knights? I walked away believing he was real, and you likely will too.
Exploring Tintagel
In the town center, the buildings may be newer than the castle ruins, but they are still hundreds of years old. The 14th-century post office has a (locally mined) slate roof. The slabs are so heavy that the roofline sags under their weight.
The weekend I visited was wet and cold. It was the perfect excuse to duck into Charlie’s for a toasted sandwich and a steaming mug of hot chocolate.
After sampling the pasties from several shops, I declared the ones from The Cornish Bakery the most life-changing. Go early in the morning to have the best selection of flavors.
The Charm of Cornwall
There is something unspoiled about many of the places in Cornwall. Ocean winds bring warm air in the summer, which can lead to beaches packed with Brits on holiday. If you want to avoid all that and experience the north coast at its most mythical, visit during the shoulder season in late spring.
As a final note, it also bears mentioning that it does rain often in the UK. If you are looking for a destination where your meanderings won’t be ruined by rainy weather, Cornwall is ideal. Remember to bring a waterproof jacket, and all will be well.
Somehow, dark clouds rolling by and mist-dampened cliff walks only add to Cornwall’s magical ambiance.
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Author Bio: Erica Chatman is a freelance writer whose work often focuses on the art and culture she finds in various destinations. While she used to reside full-time in North Florida, she now travels full-time, often spending six months or a year in a new place. Her unusual lifestyle is documented on her blog, MrsHomeFree.com. Her previous work has been featured on GoWorldTravel.com, WorldFootprints.com andon BudgetTravel.com.
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