Saint Martin: Two Flags, 37 Beaches, and Endless Caribbean Charm

The Caribbean Island of Saint Martin has been my happy escape for the past five years.

During each of my two-month winter stays, along with an occasional off-season visit, I have gotten to know it well. Let me share what the “Friendly Island” has to offer.

Saint Martin, or Sint Maarten for the Dutch, is an island made up of two countries, with two cultures sharing 34 square miles and 37 beaches.

It has the Caribbean’s largest lagoon full of yachts that is surrounded by its short mountains. The combined population is about 80,000.

Dutch Versus French

It was a treaty between the Kingdom of the Netherlands and the French Republic in 1648 that divided this island with open borders.

The borders were set by officials from each country walking along the coast in opposite directions until they met to decide where the border would split.

It is said the Dutch did a little imbibing along the way, which is why the French side is larger. With no official border control, the only way you know you have crossed between countries is a road sign and a flag.

While there is an influence of both countries on each side, everyone speaks English.

The Dutch side, to me, has a more festive atmosphere. The neighboring areas of Maho and Simpson Bay are where you will find most of the restaurants, waterside bars, and hotel rooms.

Happy hour hopping is popular here.

There is also live music playing every night somewhere. In season on Friday nights, look for me at the No Where Special Bar for some of the Caribbean’s best Reggae, drawing a mix of locals and tourists.

Phillipsburg

Phillipsburg, the Dutch capital, can be mobbed (and avoided) when more than three cruise ships are at dock. Front Street is full of tourist shops.

Due to Saint Martin’s duty-free status, Phillipsburg has a large concentration of jewelry stores.

For rare Scotch, bourbon, whiskey, and rum, shop at Gulmohar’s. I like DK Gems for jewelry based on price and quality.

One block from Front Street is the waterfront promenade on Great Bay Beach that is lined with restaurants.

The beach is one of the most protected on the island, with easy access to the cruise docks. The U.S. dollar is used on the Dutch side.

The island’s French side is a bit laid back with a Euro feel. The hotels and tourist towns are spread out, and nightlife is quieter.

Orient Beach and Grand Case are popular with vacationers. The French food in Grand Case is world-class.

Marigot

The capital, Marigot, has pretty colored buildings. The waterfront has good bakeries, cafés, a cheese shop, and restaurants. The narrow back streets are lined with stores more for locals than traditional souvenir shops.

Marigot is a small French city in the tropics where French is spoken amongst themselves. Fort Saint Louis sits majestically above the town, and it is worth a visit to see the ruins and the view.

Euros are used on the French side. An insider tip is to ask restaurants if they will take par for U.S. dollars when paying in cash.

Beaches

People flock to St. Martin for its 37 beaches. As a frequent visitor, I learned that wind and waves should not be an issue. If wind is not good from the east, take in a beach on the west or south.

All beaches are public, even if they are in a gated community. The guards will let you pass. Getting to the beach is easy with a rental car and your Google map leading the way.

Mullets Beach

Mullets Beach is our go-to place near our condo in Cupe Coy. It is a perfect 1200 feet of soft sand and gentle surf. Two loungers can be rented for $30 with an umbrella. If you are staying a week, buy them locally.

This will not only save you money, but you’ll also be able to have plenty of beach space far away from the crowded rows of lounge renters. On the beach, Rosie’s Grill is good for takeaway to your chairs.

Skip their lackluster burgers and try their ribs and chicken for $15, along with $5 beers. At the far end of the beach is Da Watering Hole for a tasty sit-down meal. Lunch for two is about $50 with a local beer.

Orient Beach

Orient Beach is a must-visit (except when five or more cruise ships are in port). This is the longest stretch of fine sand on the Atlantic side, perfect for strolling. The south end is reserved for buff beaching only.

Near the beach is Avenue de Plages with its deli, a favorite bakery, a market, and restaurants. Along most of the beach, you will find food, drinks, and beach chairs from one of a dozen beach clubs.

Chair rentals for two range from free (if you buy something) to $30 a set. We have always had a good Caribbean / French-style lunch at Le String with free chairs.

I like WAI Beach better. They have good food and rent soft loungers, which are spread further apart than other beach clubs.

The north side of the beach is where we bring lunch and our chairs. It is nearly void of people on this end.

Friars Bay

Friars Bay has a small beach that faces Anguilla on the west side. I would avoid the Friars Bay Beach Club, which can be a little surly.

Instead, go to Kali’s near the parking lot. We have enjoyed their food, strong drinks, free chairs, and humor at Kali’s. We knew the fish were fresh when we saw the fisherman deliver them.

Rouge Plage

Rouge Plage is a pretty half-mile-long sandy beach where you can lie out a towel or bring your chairs. Swim out 25 feet and look north to see an unusual arch in the water. This is another beach that is never crowded.

Long Bay Beach

Long Bay Beach is in a gated community. The beach is one and a half miles long and composed of soft sand. At the far end is the high-end La Sammana Resort.

I have been here at peak season and found fewer than 50 people spread out. Bring chairs and lunch.

Simpson Bay

Simpson Bay is a good walking beach with the airport behind it. Two places to spend the day include Mary’s Boon Hotel and D’s Beach Bar. Loungers are free at Mary’s Boon. On weekends, D’s may have live music.

Sunset Beach

Sunset Beach is where the sand and surf meet the runway. Here, the jets fly 150 feet overhead. Before viewing the planes, ask for the seven rum punch at the Driftwood Boat Bar.

On takeoff, secure your sunglasses and put your hand over your drink to protect yourself from fast-blowing sand. This is one of Saint Martin’s popular photo opportunities. The bigger jets land between 2 PM and 3:30 PM.

Off the Beach

Rainforest Adventures

Rainforest Adventures goes from mild to wild. For the mild, you can take the slow chair lift to St. Martin’s highest peak for 80-mile views of nearby islands.

For the more adventurous, you can take their four zip lines that go between the smaller peaks. For thrills, ride the longest zip line in the Caribbean.

It drops 1050 feet on a 2800-foot run at speeds of 45 mph. It looks scarier than it is.

Parrot Ville Bird Park

Parrot Ville Bird Park is guaranteed to bring a smile to all who visit. It is the Caribbean’s largest aviary, with 30 species of the prettiest birds you get up close and personal with.

The $10 admission includes a hand cup of bird feed.

Rhino Tours

Rhino Tours lets you be the captain of a zippy little RIB motorboat. Your guide leads the way, pointing out different places of interest along the coast.

There is a stop at Creole Rock for snorkeling. It is a fun way to zoom around for 2 ½ hours.

Sint Maarten Yacht Club

Sint Maarten Yacht Club is the place to be if you like happy hour, music, and large yachts.

Here, the bridge goes up at 4 PM and 5 PM, which allows you to sip on your discounted cocktails while watching yachts worth tens of millions of dollars slip through the narrow channel just 15 feet away.

Natural Pool

Natural Pool in Back Bay requires a 20-minute walk from Turnstone Road on a path along the rugged coastline.

Eventually, you will reach a pool that is protected from the surf by rocks that, on most days, is accessible. Use caution here and bring water shoes.

Aqua Mania Adventures

Aqua Mania Adventures for diving has a crew that is very professional, safety-oriented, and has a good sense of humor.

Our two-tank dive took us to wrecks teeming with fish life. They also offer sailing and snorkeling tours.

Saint Martin Charters

Saint Martin Charters does a good cruise around the island. Their roomy catamaran makes stops for swimming and snorkeling, where I saw turtles and the usual pretty tropical fish.

They also stop at the uninhabited island of Tintamarre to enjoy the beach or a walk around.

The boat offers an open bar and serves up a traditional BBQ of chicken and ribs from an eager crew that keeps you happy.

The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit

The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit is a unique museum in Phillipsburg run by Nick Maley. He is the artist who helped create Yoda and other movie characters.

This is a well-spent 45 minutes for any sci-fi or movie fan.

An Island Off an Island

Pinel Island to the north requires a five-minute boat ride to access it. Except for two restaurants and a small dock on one side of Pinel, the island is pretty natural.

We enjoyed our day on loungers and floating in the calm waters at the swankier Le Karibuni Restaurant.

For lunch, I recommend ordering tuna tartare, lobster, or a burger chairside. Hiking around Pinel Island takes 45 minutes and is well worth the views.

Ask for some lettuce to feed the iguanas between the restaurants.

Food

The old saying “stay and play on the Dutch side but dine on the French side” is passé. We found good food island-wide.

Dutch Side

Le Moulin Fou in Maho is fine French fare without the drive to Grand Case. On a special request and in advance, we ordered the beef Bourguignon and chocolate mousse.

Their roasted goat and blue cheese starter should be shared.

Beirut will feed any Middle East cravings. Their flavors of the hummus, salads, and meats are the real deal.

Emilios, located in a historic stone building, is the place for Sunday brunch. It has an excellent buffet serving both breakfast and lunch fare.

Go for the unlimited mimosas and choose between orange, guava, or passion fruit juice in your Champagne.

Secrets Seafood is almost in a secret location, located on a narrow road by the drawbridge. It checks the boxes for fresh fish, lobsters, friendly staff, and sits on the water.

Try the giant flash-fried snapper covered in Creole sauce.

Lagoonies Bistro and Bar on the lagoon is a gastropub of sorts that we dine at when they have music. Their happy hour drinks are cheap.

Reveil Matin makes the best breakfast on the Dutch side. Their specialty coffees are served in tall mugs. You can order skillets, crepes, omelets, pancakes, and more here.

Plan on skipping lunch.

French Side

Grand Case is the French Food Capital of the Caribbean. Some of the best restaurants are within 200 yards of each other. Two of our favorites are Le Cottage and Le Villa.

Their food is delicious, classic French cuisine, and served with the friendliest of service. A three-course dinner for two with a simple Bordeaux runs at a reasonable $175 per couple.

For the best Lobster Thermidor, try Bistrot Caraïbes. Our group shared a 10-pound lobster that was cooked perfectly.

For tasty traditional Italian food, try Spiga at the north end.

Learn more about restaurants in Grand Case here.

Chez Marie in Marigot is where grandmothers and their daughters cook tasty local food in old shipping containers. Marie is located in one of the open-air buildings that house several similar restaurants by the water.

A plate of shrimp, red snapper, conch (cooked up to three ways), and chicken served on a large plate with three sides will run less than $20. U.S. cash here is taken at par.

(This is a great place to amortize that expensive French dinner from Grand Case)

Le Tropicana on the lagoon marina side of Marigot serves up classic French and Caribbean-inspired dinners in a casual setting.

A two-course dinner for two with a glass of wine is about $125. Service at this family-owned restaurant is always friendly.

Orient Beach features a square off its main street, home to seven restaurants of different types. We liked Sao Asian Factory and Le Petite Bistro.

Chez Fernand la French Bakery in Marigot has the best croissants and pastries on the island. They also have sandwiches to go.

The Local Drink

Caribbean Brewing Company offers tours and all the beer you can drink in two hours for $25. A highlight was drawing a fresh beer from their large stainless steel barrels before it was bottled.

Toppers Rhum Distillery offers a rum experience featuring a tasting of their flavored rums. There is no distilling here, and this is not the place to visit if you are a rum connoisseur. I do recommend their gelatos.

Governors 1648 has fine aged rums and high-quality infused rums. We were impressed with the complexity and taste of their products.

Their flavored rum is the real deal. You can see the vanilla beans, banana, or passion fruit in the bottles.

Accommodations:

According to the search engines, there are 242 hotels on Saint Martin. You can find a place on any budget. I would recommend searching in Simpson Bay, Maho, and Orient Bay to start.

Renting a condominium on St. Martin is very popular. Condos are competitive with hotels and offer more space.

For families or friends sharing a place, it will be less money than two hotel rooms. Another reason to consider a condo stay is the island’s excellent supermarkets and fish markets to keep you stocked.

The leading supermarket, Carrfour, has everything you want, including the best selection of European pates, cheeses, and cured meats.

They have all the spirits you need, and you can “rose all day” with wines lower in price than in France due to the island’s tax-free status.

Having a condo also lets you pick up a local French baguette and pastries and enjoy them on your balcony.

A leading five-star condo with ocean views, adjacent to Mullet Bay, is called The Cliff. It has a secluded beach in season, and the island’s newest infinity pool with views 30 miles out to the island of Saba.

For inquiries, please visit their VRBO page or email tmh1027@aol.com. Check with VRBO and Airbnb for island-wide rentals.

Check Booking.com and Tripadvisor for hotels and resort options.

Getting Around

Buses are not tourist-friendly because their schedules and routes are not always on time or well-marked. Renting a car is the best way to get around and is reasonably priced. Drivers here are courteous.

I have used Sixt Car Rental because they are polite, show up on time, and always have a car ready.

For complete information on the French side, go to www.st-martin.org. For the Dutch side, click www.st-maarten.com

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Author Bio: After 30 years, Tab Hauser left the business world and reinvented himself as a journalist and professional photographer. His travels have taken him to seven continents and 100 countries or unique locations. He is an Explorers Club Friend, a member of the New York Press Association, a diver, and a U.S. Coast Guard Licensed Captain. This native New Yorker now calls Colorado home. Follow on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/tab.hauser/, https://www.instagram.com/tabhauser/ and www.tabhauser.com

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