The white frothy waves passed below me in a continuous stream of marshmallow-like consistency. The breezes carried the heat of the semi-arid hills of Hellenic Europe, warming the early morning long before the sun rose. Salt spray kissed my glasses and gathered on the railing of our balcony, leaving a fine, crusty coat.
I had risen early, or late, depending on your point of view. My body had yet to adjust to the 8-hour time difference. Kathy, snuggled comfortably beneath the blankets, seemed to have no issues with her body clock.
I might have been annoyed with the disruption to my life’s rhythms. However, the absence of the usual light pollution from civilization’s reliance on electricity had created an unusually dark sky, highlighting the vast panorama of stars above my head.
As I tried to drag the little that I knew of constellations from the deep recesses of my mind, I couldn’t help but smile a little at how I had found myself here.
Sailing with Viking
Photo by Frank Hosek
It had been two decades since our last ocean voyage. I don’t know why we had waited so long.
My balcony ruminations were on our first morning at sea on an 8-day Mediterranean cruise with Viking Ocean Cruises. It was a journey that took us to two continents and three countries, home to cultures that laid the essential foundations of Western civilization.
We, and another couple, were sailing with Viking Ocean Cruises aboard the Viking Star. The Star was the first entry into their ocean-going stable of ships.
A relatively small vessel in this era of mega-passenger ships, the Star offers an upscale experience. It is adult-focused, with only passengers aged 18 or older.
We were greeted at the Athens, Greece airport by Viking representatives and quickly and efficiently bused to our awaiting Star.
As we were escorted through the understated beauty of the three-story atrium in the center of the ship, we elicited several barely audible “wows,” as though we were afraid to disrupt the moment.
A huge two-deck staircase dominated. There was a living room-style seating area and library, Viking bar, and concierge services where you can seek answers, adjust shore bookings and make restaurant reservations.
After the mandatory life-vest demonstration, we made our way to our cabin on the 4th deck.
Scandinavian touches are everywhere. Images of the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman descendants of the Viking conquest of Saxon England, dominate the stairwells. There is a small museum display of Viking artifacts, and an upscale IKEA-chic dominates the furnishings.
Our Stateroom
Compared to my last time sailing, our cabin appeared roomy and quite luxurious. Viking provides thoughtful and elegant touches. Soft and plush bedding, a comfortable sofa, and a very functional desk and chair.
The 270 square feet, which includes balcony space, provides a compact but spacious living area with its exceedingly functional use of space.
A great deal of drawers with closet and under-bed storage kept the room luggage-free. Lighting is excellent, and the reading lights built into the headboards were a nice touch.
One of my biggest gripes on our last voyage was the extremely small, barely functional bathroom. Not the case with Viking. The glass-enclosed shower is big and tall enough that you will not be banging knees and elbows.
The room itself was spacious enough for both of us, if need be. No-steam mirrors, drawers, shelves, and wonderful towels were welcomed. But what tipped it over the top for Kathy, and, I honestly have to admit, for me, were its heated bathroom floors.
It didn’t matter the moderate Mediterranean weather; the warmth beneath my feet was wondrous.
We finished our first night with dinner in the World Café. An open kitchen with live cooking, this is a buffet-style restaurant that serves quality choices.
Open for all three meals, it’s casual with open seating, including an al fresco dining area, an experience we really enjoyed on the Terrace overlooking the stern.
Athens
Viking highlights local engagement at all of its ports, offering an extensive choice of excursions with local guides–some are optional, and some are included. We found the optional ones were far and away worth the additional charge.
Our first foray began early at 7:30 AM. We boarded a bus for downtown Athens and the famed Acropolis.
The sunrise climb to the top of the ancient citadel on a rocky hill was exhilarating. The architectural wonders rising from the rocky mount left us awed.
Originally a fortress, it became a religious and cultural center. Its most famous marble structure, the Parthenon, is dedicated to the goddess Athena.
Constructed in the 5th century BC under Pericles, it rises high above modern Athens as its most memorable icon.
At the base of the Acropolis, we explored the Plaka District, the oldest neighborhood in Athens.
Ephesus
The following morning, we sailed into the Turkish port of Kusadasi, where we explored the ancient Roman ruins of Ephesus.
Once a Greek city-state of ancient Asia Minor and a major Roman port city, today it is home to well-preserved ruins and quite a number of stray cats, one of whom has become a minor celebrity.
The excavated remains of these two great civilizations fascinate, amaze, and intrigue. They create an inquisitiveness, a want to know more. Mark Antony was welcomed several times by Ephesus, when he was proconsul, and in 33 BC with Cleopatra.
As we stood before the Library of Celsus, a magnificent ruin, our guide Tunç Karaosman explained the significant role that Ephesus played in early Christianity.
St. Paul had lived here for nearly four years, pressing upon its citizens the teachings of Jesus.
Crete: The Palace of Knossos
After an overnight sailing of the Aegean Sea, a 2 ½ hour bus ride along the coast of the Island of Crete brought us to the city of Heraklion and its famous archaeological site, The Palace of Knossos.
Knossos was once the center of the ancient Minoan civilization. This civilization is considered by many to be the oldest in Europe. Some 4,000 years old, the complex may have been settled by as many as 100,000 people.
What brought on the downfall of the Minoans and the destruction of Knossos is still debated. However, many believe a natural disaster precipitated it.
Nestled at the base of a hillside, the ruins are an assemblage of foundations, fallen walls, and an extensive network of below-level corridors and quarters.
It’s believed that this labyrinth was the basis of the Minotaur myth, the half-bull, half-man creature King Minos kept locked below his palace.
In addition, there are a few “modern” reconstructions of walls and enclaves.
Sir Arthur Evans is recognized as the driving force behind the site’s modern-day restoration. However, there is a great deal of controversy surrounding his methods of restoration and interpretations of the site.
Even our guide found fault with some of his “findings” regarding the site and its people. Today, the Cretan government is working towards a balanced conservation of the site.
Our day in Crete was followed by a day at sea as the Star made its way to Sicily.
It was beautiful, with some wind but a pleasantly warm day. So, after breakfast on our balcony, we decided to walk the promenade for some exercise, and then reconnoiter our ship further.
The Ship
One of the first pleasures of sailing with Viking is that the ship does not overwhelm. Viking’s mid-sized vessels sail with fewer than 1,000 passengers. It creates a surprising intimacy.
There was never a feeling of overcrowding, with plenty of niches throughout to retire to with a book, cocktail, or just your own thoughts and enjoy the passing of the waves.
The Explorer’s Lounge became our favorite space on the ship. Located on the 7th deck at the bow, its two-story panoramic windows provided incredible views.
Each evening we gathered to unwind, share the day’s events, and enjoy James, a wonderful acoustic guitarist whose beautiful voice left us wanting more at the end of each performance.
What really made the cruise a relaxing, pleasurable treat was the crew. We found all to be professional and attentive, but it was more than that.
The heartfelt friendliness was palpable. Tito and Jessa, who attended to our every stateroom need, were quick with greetings, smiles, and sharing little tips and nuances about the ship.
Kash, known as Johnny to his fellow crew, was that server who asked about you personally, learned your likes and dislikes, and provided laughter at every turn.
Afternoon tea is held every day at 4 p.m. in the gorgeous Wintergarden. The girls partook of Viking’s version. They were more than pleased with flavorful crustless sandwiches, bite-sized scones, tarts, and various sweets, served with jam and clotted cream. And, of course, hot tea.
On deck two, they have the Star theatre, where they do the shows, the enrichment, and port talks.
They also have Torshavn, a nightclub and evening music venue. Two pools, a gym, the upper sports deck, and a Nordic-style spa helped to keep both body and spirit in good harmony.
Dining
As with all cruise lines nowadays, Viking offers a full range of dining experiences on its ocean-going ships, from fine dining to quick bites, not to mention the 24-hour room service.
There is no extra charge for Viking’s fine-dining restaurants, and beer and wine are included and poured generously with lunch and dinner.
The Restaurant, that’s truly its name, on deck 2, is the go-to, white tablecloth restaurant. It is immense but still manages to create intimacy, with a number of dishes heavily influenced by the cruise’s region of travel, together with a list of available classics.
Outsized windows provide an ambiance with wonderful views of the seas surrounding.
Located on Deck 1, The Chef’s Table is less a restaurant and more of a gastronomic journey featuring a multicourse tasting menu, paired with select wines.
We enjoyed a Korean-influenced meal that happily introduced us to nuanced flavors we never would have tried on our own.
On the same deck, Manfredi’s creates a sea-going ristorante presenting a fine balance of hearty, rustic Tuscan plates with the rich, creamy pasta combinations of Northern Italy.
Messina
After a day at sea, we docked in the city of Messina on the island of Sicily. We explored the city on our own, dodging sporadic rain.
After window shopping for some of the local wares, we sat beneath an outdoor canopy at a local pizzeria.
Mama, who spoke as little English as we did Italian, beckoned her grandson over for assistance. With the help of finger pointing and a few phrases of Italian/English, we ordered a wonderful lunch of pizza, espresso and limoncello.
Afterwards, we walked to the Messina Cathedral. The bell tower of the Cathedral of Messina contains the biggest and most complex mechanical and astronomical clock in the world.
An intricate system of counterweights, leverages, and gears determines the movement of the gilded bronze statues located in the facade.
On the half hour, I was lucky enough to watch statues of Dina and Clarenza, two heroines who defended the city during the war, strike the bells.
Pompeii
Sailing from Sicily, we finally made it to the boot of Italy and Naples. Nearly 2,000 years ago, Pompeii was a bustling city located in what is now Southern Italy, 15 miles from modern Naples.
But in the summer of A.D. 79, nearby Mount Vesuvius erupted, spewing ash, smoke and toxic gas 20 miles into the air, which soon spread over and engulfed the town.
Entombed in nearly 20 feet of volcanic ash and pumice, Pompeii became a snapshot of Roman civilization frozen in time.
Sans roofs that were burnt away, the interiors of public baths, private homes, eateries, and bakeries are all amazingly preserved.
Colorful frescoes still adorn the walls; bread that was carbonized and perfectly preserved by the heat survived in ovens, and ancient graffiti adorn the walls of buildings. And the most poignant site, the casts of victims in the Garden of the Fugitives, where 13 fleeing victims were permanently trapped.
Some 160 acres of Pompeii have been meticulously excavated. It’s a profound experience witnessing, as such, the final moments of a people.
To see Pompeii with deeper context, this Pompeii Small Group Tour with an Archaeologist is an excellent option. You’ll explore the ruins with a guide who brings the city’s final days to life, leading you through key sites like the Basilica, the Forum, and the thermal baths. With their expertise, the stories, structures, and everyday details of ancient Pompeii become far easier to understand and appreciate.
Final Thoughts
Our final day saw us docking in the port of Civitavecchia for our next adventure, an extended stay in Rome.
With the wonderful aid of Viking Ocean Cruises, we visited, explored, and immersed ourselves in the very birthplaces of some of the most renowned ancient civilizations known.
We had traveled the routes of some of the earliest seafarers and met and embraced their ancestors. We traveled on a Star, and it shone.
If You Go
Learn more about Viking Cruises here.
We booked our first Viking cruise through their website. We spoke to a representative directly who worked with us over several weeks, both by phone and email, answering all of our questions. Even after the cruise was booked, he stayed in contact with us right up to our departure date.
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