The breeze came along at the perfect time, blow-drying the sweat trickling down our faces as we trudged slowly up the face of the mountain. Vanilla-scented pines danced in the wind, cliffs towered above our heads and hikers on their way down rooted us on and said we were almost there. They were liars. Lies we quickly forgave once we finally reached the top.
My dad and I were rewarded with one of the most spectacular lakes I’ve ever had the pleasure of seeing, deep emerald green with waterfalls decorating the surrounding cliffs. And then the cherry on top was returning to town, where we got to ease our burning muscles in mineral hot springs, followed by a delightful, well-earned slumber in a historic hotel.
This is Glenwood Springs, a Colorado mountain town that achieves a brilliant balance between adventure and relaxation.
Glenwood Springs, Colorado: A Mountain Town Built on Hot Springs
Located about 157 miles west of Denver, on the other side of the Front Range, sits Glenwood Springs, a classic Colorado mountain town with an exciting twist. Situated at the confluence of the Colorado and Roaring Fork Rivers, the town is surrounded by bright red foothills with the staggering Rockies in the background.
Like most Colorado mountain towns, the scenery is breathtaking, but what really stands out is the diversity of activities.
The hot springs are the star of the show here. Glenwood Springs sits on a geothermal hot spot with a fascinating history spanning several centuries. The Ute Native Americans were the first to discover the springs, calling the biggest one Yampah, meaning “Big Medicine.” The springs were sacred to the tribe, considered healing for the body, mind and spirit.
In 1880, the Ute people were forcibly removed from their lands and relocated to reservations. Prospectors moved in almost immediately, and early settlers saw the potential to develop the natural springs into a world-class resort destination.
This was also the height of the Wild West, and the town quickly filled with outlaws, gambling, saloons and brothels, an era that lasted well into the 1900s. Famed gangster Al Capone used the town as a hideaway, staying at Hotel Colorado right across from the springs pool.
Other notable guests included Teddy Roosevelt, who loved the town so much that Hotel Colorado became known as the “Little White House of the United States” during his presidency and the infamous gunslinger Doc Holliday, who spent his final days in Glenwood Springs hoping the mineral waters might ease his tuberculosis.
If you’re planning a trip to Colorado, check out our Colorado Travel Guide, where you’ll find a curated selection of articles to inspire you and help plan your trip.
Where to Stay: Hotel 1888 at Glenwood Hot Springs Resort
My dad and I stayed at Hotel 1888, which sits within the resort’s historic Stone Bath House at the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort. The property features vintage 1800s architecture and is built of locally quarried red sandstone. It was originally home to a men’s casino, Roman vapor baths and a physician’s office.
At the turn of the century, it earned the nickname “Spa of the Rockies,” and the building has been reinventing itself ever since. Most recently, it was an actual spa before closing in 2020 and reopening in 2025 as Hotel 1888, a 16-room boutique hotel for adults (21+) with historic photos and artifacts throughout.
My dad had the Silver Kings Suite with a private balcony overlooking the Grand Pool. I was in the 1888 Suite with a beautiful soaking tub and mountain views. However, the real perk is access to the hot springs pools. While day guests often had to wait in line, hotel guests walk straight through.
Hotel 1888 guests can also book a package to experience the Yampah Vapor Caves, both heated by the same ancient Yampah Spring that sits directly on the property. Fun fact: no one has ever located the bottom of the spring.
Glenwood Hot Springs Resort: The World’s Largest Hot Springs Pool
The resort has several pools, the most famous being the Grand Pool, considered the largest hot springs pool in the world at 405 feet long and over one million gallons of mineral water. The Therapy Pool runs at 104 degrees for tired muscles, and the Yampah Mineral Baths, opened in 2024, offer five pools at varying temperatures, adults-only after 5pm.
For families, the Sopris Splash Zone is the resort’s summer aquatic playground, featuring the Shoshone Chutes, a whitewater-style tube ride that winds 700 feet down the mountain mimicking a Colorado river canyon experience, plus mini water slides, shallow wading pools and a splash pad that transforms into a lighted fountain after dark.
What struck me most about Glenwood Hot Springs Resort was the community feel. While there were plenty of tourists, it drew just as many locals who clearly treat visits to the pool as a weekly ritual, catching up with friends, attending water aerobics classes and simply floating.
Morning is the quietest time to visit. Summer evenings are something else entirely, cool mountain air and a sky full of stars overhead. But my personal favorite is winter, because nothing compares to the contrast of cold snowy air and perfectly heated pools.
For families or a more budget-friendly accommodation option, the Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge across the way has 107 rooms and includes the same pool access and breakfast.
Hiking Hanging Lake: Colorado’s Most Rewarding Trail
Hanging Lake is one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve ever seen. It sits about seven miles east of Glenwood Springs in Glenwood Canyon, a National Natural Landmark formed by a geological fault that left a crystal-clear, emerald-green lake suspended on the canyon wall, fed by Bridal Veil Falls. The water was so vivid it looked oversaturated, sunlight catching the surface while fish darted beneath it.
Permits are required year-round ($12 per person, May through October) and book fast, so plan ahead. They help ease the flood of tourists, so it is worth it to keep it protected and with fewer crowds.
My dad and I headed straight uphill for a mile and a half, taking an embarrassingly large number of breaks for our hearts to recover, especially as Coloradans. The switchbacks were deceiving, and we could never tell how far we were from the top.
Then we spotted a horrifyingly steep set of stairs that we laughed off, convinced they were carved out for workers. Alas, those were the final stairs to get to the top. Now keep in mind, we are a pair of drama royalty, so perhaps what was difficult for us might not be so difficult for you. Regardless, I had never felt more rewarded on a hike.
And then we came back down and recovered our tired legs at Iron Mountain Hot Springs.
Iron Mountain Hot Springs: Soak in Hot Springs from Around the World
Terraced along the banks of the Colorado River, facing west, Iron Mountain Hot Springs has an entirely different feel from Glenwood Hot Springs, perfect for catching the sunset over the glowing mountains. It has 35 pools total, but the main draw is WorldSprings, the adults-only (21+) section.
The concept is brilliant: 12 pools with mineral formulas scientifically recreated to match the most famous hot springs on earth. The Blue Lagoon, the Dead Sea, Hokkaido, Japan, Yarrangobilly Caves in Australia. A scientist spent years traveling to these locations, breaking down their exact mineral compositions so you could experience them all in one evening.
I have always wanted to swim in the Dead Sea, and here I got a taste of it without leaving Colorado. The difference in buoyancy between pools, the way each one feels different on your skin, the shift in temperature from one to the next. I would have stayed there all night, fingers and toes pruned to oblivion.
The general access side has 16 geothermal pools for all ages, and the Sauna Summit adds another layer of options. But if you are 21 and over, I suggest you upgrade to WorldSprings.
Read More: Colorado’s Top 7 Hot Springs: Natural Bliss Awaits
Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park: America’s Only Mountaintop Theme Park
I have been to many amusement parks, but I have never been to one quite like Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park.
Accessible via a gondola that climbs 4,300 feet from the valley floor with sweeping views of the Colorado and Roaring Fork Rivers, Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park is America’s only mountaintop theme park, perched at 7,132 feet above sea level.
The views alone are worth the gondola ride up, which is also available as a standalone ticket. But if you love an amusement park, this one is small, generally uncrowded and has a unique western flair. Walkable and charming, it also has some rides you can’t find anywhere else.
My favorite, the Alpine Coaster, sends you racing down 3,400 feet of mountain track, which is exhilarating enough on its own, but the views make it that much more impressive.
The Giant Canyon Swing launches you 1,300 feet above the Colorado River at 50 miles per hour, which I can confirm is absolutely petrifying. Thrill seekers can also ride Defiance, the highest looping roller coaster in the United States, and the Cliffhanger, the highest elevation coaster in the country.
Exploring the Caves at Glenwood Caverns
As if the park were not unique enough, there are also two cave systems to tour. Between the two, I recommend King’s Row if you only have time for one. Considered the most decorated cave room in Colorado, it winds through extraordinary formations, from cave bacon and soda straws to stalactites and stalagmites, all lit up 150 feet below the surface.
The caves have drawn visitors since the 1890s, when local attorney Charles Darrow marketed them as the “Eighth Wonder of the World” and transported guests to the entrance by donkey.
The caves and gondola run year-round, and select rides including the Alpine Coaster stay open through winter and fall. Full ride season, including the Giant Canyon Swing and roller coasters, kicks off around early May. Bad weather can close the gondola and rides at any time, so check conditions before you go and confirm what is open at glenwoodcaverns.com.
If You Go
Beyond the springs, Hanging Lake and the adventure park, Glenwood’s downtown is fun to roam, with that classic mountain town ambiance, good restaurants, local shops and easy access to hiking and biking trails throughout the surrounding canyon and foothills.
Hotel 1888 guests can reach downtown via a pedestrian bridge over the Colorado River in under 10 minutes.
Where to Eat
- Riviera Scratch Kitchen: Glenwood’s most beloved local restaurant, a piano bar and scratch kitchen with seasonal, locally sourced menus.
- Smoke Modern Barbeque: A contemporary take on BBQ with smoked meats, creative mac and cheese and Cajun-inspired sides. Perfect after a Hanging Lake hike.
- Masala and Curry: A cozy downtown gem combining Indian and Nepalese flavors, cooking everything from scratch. One of the best meals of the trip.
Where to Stay
- Hotel 1888 at Glenwood Hot Springs Resort: Adults-only boutique hotel inside the historic Stone Bath House with direct pool access.
- The Lodge at Glenwood Hot Springs Resort: The family-friendly option at the same resort, 107 renovated rooms with the same pool access and breakfast included. [affiliate]
Good to Know
- Glenwood Springs is about 157 miles west of Denver via I-70, roughly a 2.5 hour drive.
- Early fall and midweek visits mean smaller crowds at the pools and trails.
- Hanging Lake permits book fast. Reserve in advance here.
- For full trip planning, the official Glenwood Springs tourism site has everything you need.
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