Bhutan had occupied a place on my travel bucket list for years. As someone who has visited close to 100 countries and lived abroad for years, I’m admittedly hard to impress. Yet Bhutan’s reputation preceded it: a deeply spiritual kingdom where happiness is valued above wealth, where the traditional way of life remains intact, and where the Himalayas cradle ancient monasteries and pristine wilderness.
I wanted to witness the authentic Buddhist way of life—not as a tourist attraction, but as a living, breathing culture. What I discovered exceeded my expectations. Bhutan didn’t just meet the hype; it completely transformed my understanding of what a country can choose to preserve and protect.
First Impressions: Arriving in a Different World
The Flight and Landing
If you fly the one-hour route from Kathmandu, Nepal, secure a window seat on the left side of the aircraft. You’ll be rewarded with views of Mount Everest piercing the sky. As our flight on DrukAir descended into Paro Valley, I pressed my face to the window, mesmerized by the green landscape below.
Stepping onto the tarmac felt like entering another era. The colorful, single-story terminal showcased Bhutan’s distinctive architecture—ornate, fanciful, built entirely without nails according to centuries-old tradition. The Paro Valley stretched before us, cradled by majestic peaks. Every person I saw wore traditional Bhutanese dress, and an enormous, vibrant photograph of the King and royal family greeted visitors at the entrance.
A Kingdom Apart
At 7,200 feet in altitude, I felt slightly dizzy as I breathed in the impossibly clean mountain air. Coming from the chaos of Nepal, the contrast was jarring. This kingdom felt cleaner, quieter, less frenzied, and remarkably well-preserved compared to its neighbors—China, India, and Nepal.
Nowhere in Bhutan would I see neon signs or traffic lights. No backpacker bars or cheap hostels cluttered the landscape. The country seemed untouched by the visual chaos of modern development, surrounded instead by jaw-dropping natural beauty.
Matt DeSantis, CEO of MyBhutan and one of the country’s longest-engaged foreign residents, explains the scope of this preservation: “The highest unclimbed mountain in the world is in Bhutan, and because it’s considered sacred, it will remain unclimbed. You have everything from snow leopards in the north to elephants and tigers in the south. Bhutan is an incredibly biodiverse hotspot.”
Understanding Bhutan’s Controlled Tourism
The Philosophy Behind the Fees
Bhutan’s geographic and cultural isolation has been its greatest asset. The kingdom only opened to tourism in 1974, and television and the internet didn’t arrive until 1999. The Bhutanese fiercely protect their unique Buddhist culture through a deliberate policy of attracting “high-value” tourists who will visit without damaging the environment or cultural fabric.
All travelers pay a $100 daily Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) through their tour company—currently scheduled to increase to $200 in 2027. Our guide, Tul-C, thanked us for this contribution, explaining that it funds free medical care and education for all citizens while preserving the country’s cultural treasures.
Gross National Happiness: A Different Measure of Progress
Bhutan’s approach to national well-being is fundamentally different from the rest of the world. The kingdom measures its success through Gross National Happiness (GNH) rather than Gross Domestic Product—a development philosophy that prioritizes collective happiness and well-being over purely economic growth.
This isn’t merely a clever slogan or marketing concept. GNH reflects deep Buddhist values and the belief that true development must create conditions for happiness by balancing material progress with spiritual fulfillment, cultural preservation, and environmental stewardship. The government evaluates policies through a GNH lens, asking whether proposed changes will enhance the well-being of its citizens across multiple dimensions of life.
Does it work?
Based on my interactions throughout the country, I witnessed something remarkable. The Bhutanese people I met genuinely seemed happy—not in a performative way for tourists, but in their everyday demeanor. They exhibited patience, compassion, and groundedness that felt refreshingly authentic.
Whether our guide Tul-C Stagz explained temple rituals, shopkeepers in Paro’s markets, or families circumambulating the Memorial Chorten at sunset, people moved through their lives with a calm presence that suggested GNH might be more than philosophy—it might actually be working.
How to Visit
To enter Bhutan, you must work with a licensed tour company or guide—the only way to obtain a visa and travel within the country. While this limits independent travel, it doesn’t mean you’re trapped in a rigid itinerary. Experienced operators can customize trips around your specific interests, from textile art to wildlife tracking to spiritual immersion.
Exploring Paro and The Tiger’s Nest
The Town
Paro is a compact town with a walkable downtown area filled with souvenir shops. The valley offers numerous trekking opportunities, but one hike dominates every itinerary: the legendary Tiger’s Nest.
Hiking to Taktsang Monastery – The Tiger’s Nest
You’ve likely seen photographs of Tiger’s Nest—Taktsang Monastery, dramatically perched on a vertical cliff face at 10,121 feet. This iconic day hike typically happens on the final day of your trip, after you’ve had time to acclimatize to Bhutan’s high altitudes.
Is it challenging? Yes. But most visitors in good physical condition, with strong knees and proper acclimatization, complete it successfully—weather permitting. Unfortunately, unseasonal heavy rain soaked Bhutan on our hiking day. Despite this, half our group attempted the climb, and four of us reached the monastery.
The trail begins at 8,530 feet and ascends 1,500 feet over more than a thousand stone steps. Throughout the climb, views of the monastery clinging impossibly to the cliff take your breath away—both literally and figuratively. Once you arrive, the sublime beauty and spiritual atmosphere of this 8th-century monastery make every difficult step worthwhile.
Thimphu: The Capital City
Sunset at the Memorial Chorten
From Paro, we wound our way through mountain roads to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital and largest city, home to 149,000 people. Our first evening, we visited the Memorial Chorten in memory of the Third King. The experience was magical, reminiscent of time I spent in Tibet decades earlier, joining pilgrims in their sacred circumambulations.
Butter lamps flickered in the darkness as students, office workers, families, and elderly citizens walked circles around the temple, quietly chanting prayers. I was struck by how Bhutanese religious practice combines quiet contemplation with physical movement—faith expressed through the body as much as the mind.
Dochula Pass and Sacred Sites
The following day took us to Simtokha Dzong—a fortress monastery—en route to Dochula Pass, which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the eastern Himalayan range. The pass is a popular stop where visitors admire 108 white memorial stupas (chortens) arranged in concentric circles.
Throughout the drive, hundreds of colorful prayer flags fluttered on hillsides, carrying mantras on the mountain wind. We visited a traditional weaving factory and stopped at Pangi Sampa Monastery before returning to our Thimphu hotel.
The Temples: Unparalleled Beauty
The temples throughout Bhutan rank among the most intricate, well-preserved, and beautiful I’ve encountered anywhere in the world. Brightly colored murals, golden statues, and dazzling geometric patterns create a visual feast that imprints on memory.
Photography is strictly prohibited inside all Bhutanese temples—a rule our guide reinforced before each visit: “Take off your shoes and leave your camera behind.” This prohibition actually enhances the experience, forcing you to be fully present rather than viewing the world through a screen.
Planning Your Bhutan Experience
Wildlife and Cultural Immersion
Matt DeSantis advises travelers to customize trips around specific interests: “Whether it’s textile art, birding, foraging for traditional medicines, trekking, or spiritual experiences, ask your operator to build accordingly. You can hike and stay overnight in a monastery in the high mountains, where you may eat and meditate with monks, have dharma discussions, or even play football together.”
The Tseringma Sanctuary harbors extraordinary wildlife, including snow leopards, takin (Bhutan’s national animal), black bears, red pandas, and over 300 bird species—including the critically endangered white-bellied heron, with only 60 remaining in the wild.
Plan to attend smaller festivals where connecting with locals and experiencing village life comes naturally, rather than the larger, more tourist-heavy celebrations.
Temple Etiquette
When visiting Buddhist sites in Bhutan, observe these essential courtesies: always check if photography is permitted (inside temples, it never is), remove shoes before entering, dress conservatively with covered knees and shoulders, never point your feet at Buddha statues or other people, and resist touching anyone’s head—even adorable children. Consider wearing slip-on shoes and socks on temple-heavy days for convenience.
Accommodations and Dining
Where to Stay
Bhutan’s accommodation options range from luxury resorts to heritage hotels to farmhouse stays.
Luxury properties like Amankora (with lodges across five valleys) and Six Senses offer spa facilities, traditional Bhutanese architecture with modern amenities, and stunning valley views.
The Meridian Hotel in Thimphu offered a prime location for walking downtown and chatting with locals in shops and a café. In Paro, I experienced the newly opened Dawa, a five-star luxury property developed by a Singapore-based company—Bhutan’s largest hotel at 897 rooms. The property includes a spa, gym, and heated indoor infinity pool. After swimming a few laps, I found myself winded, having forgotten I was exercising at 7,200 feet.
Heritage Hotels
Heritage hotels occupy restored dzongs, farmhouses, or traditional buildings, offering authentic experiences with modern comforts. Thick stone walls, intricate wooden detailing, and interior courtyards give guests a genuine taste of historical Bhutanese living.
Farmhouse Stays
Farmhouse stays offer intimate cultural experiences in traditional homes where local families have converted portions into guesthouses. Accommodations can be quite basic but provide unparalleled cultural authenticity.
Food Realities
I was surprised that we ate nearly all meals in our hotels, typically buffet-style—meaning food often cooled quickly and selections grew repetitive. The two lunches at “local restaurants” proved disappointing: large tour groups crowded the dining rooms, and mediocre buffet food failed to showcase Bhutanese cuisine’s potential. The exception was the excellent Indian food at the five-star Dawa Hotel.
Traditional Bhutanese cuisine features dairy products, chilies, soft cheese, and rice as staples—an interesting culinary tradition worth experiencing when prepared well.
Essential Travel Information
Documentation and Access
Ensure you have the correct documentation for passing through India or Thailand en route to Bhutan. You can only enter from select cities: Bangkok, Kathmandu, Singapore, New Delhi, and Dubai. Verify transit visa requirements well in advance.
My Biggest Mistake
I should have known better than to think five days would provide a genuine understanding of Bhutan. Short visits confine you to the four main tourist hotspots in the western part of the country, which is exactly what happened to me.
My advice: Take time to truly absorb what Bhutan is. Plan for at least ten days to two weeks. Travel in a small group. Tell your tour company you want to venture beyond the standard circuit—even into remote eastern Bhutan. Select an operator with deep Bhutanese experience and connections.
“The deeper you go, the more you learn about Bhutanese life and culture—and yourself. By spending time in quiet villages reachable only by unmarked trails, or by following red-robed monks whose daily rhythms still move with the land. Personally, I’ve found the deepest sense of connection in places within Haa, Laya, Tsirang, Merak, and Zhemgang—regions that remain largely unchanged and see few guests,” adds DeSantis of MyBhutan Travel Company.
I left the country with a nagging feeling that I’d missed so much. Don’t make the same mistake.
Understanding Modern Bhutan
Research Bhutan’s 44-year-old King and his ambitious vision for the country’s future. He has a beautiful wife and two children whose photographs grace public spaces throughout the kingdom. Educated at Phillips Academy in Andover, Massachusetts, then Cushing Academy and Wheaton College, before studying at Oxford University, he represents Bhutan’s bridge between tradition and modernity.
While Bhutan appears to be a real-life Shangri-La, the complete picture is more complex. The population is shrinking as young people leave for economic opportunities abroad—Australia now hosts a large Bhutanese community. In 2024, the King held royal audiences in Sydney, Canberra, and Perth, meeting with approximately 27,000 Bhutanese expatriates.
During these meetings, he shared his ambitious plans for Gelephu Mindfulness City, a special economic zone under construction in southern Bhutan. This project aims to attract international investment in advanced technology, transform the economy by creating jobs and foreign investment, and diversify beyond the current reliance on hydropower and tourism.
Bhutan stands at a crossroads, attempting to preserve its cultural soul while creating economic opportunities that will keep its young people home. Visiting now means witnessing this delicate balance—a kingdom choosing its own path into the future while honoring the wisdom of its past.
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Author Bio: Marybeth left a career in the tech world for a two-year solo trip around the world. She has hiked, cycled, climbed, and kayaked in 100+ countries on seven continents —and she met her future husband in Kathmandu after a month of trekking. She has written articles and books for National Geographic and created a blog, GutsyTraveler.com. She was a guest on The Oprah Winfrey Show with her book Gutsy Women.
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