The last time I strolled the cobblestoned streets of Vienna, I was backpacking with a friend after college. Clad in trekking clothes and looking somewhat bedraggled, I recall feeling out of place in the elegant city.
I also recall being smitten with Vienna. Decades later, I returned. Here’s how I discovered Vienna all over again.
1. The Leo Grand, a Sumptuous and Historic Hotel in a Trendy Neighborhood
Years ago, I could have only dreamed of spending the night in such an elegant, ritzy hotel.
After extensive renovations to the historic hotel, the “Leo” opened in April 2022. The Leo Grand, named for Emperor Leopold I, offers 76 rooms and suites with names like the Leopold Suite.
Even breakfast differed from the traditional morning buffet routine. I used a QR code to order Eggs Benedict one morning and Muesli the next.
My room, decorated in a soft rose-and-aqua color scheme, with a lampshade of feathers and opulent down covers, offered a view of the busy street below. Horse-drawn carriages maneuvered along cobblestones and shoppers carrying bags with a Gucci logo strolled arm-in-arm.
The best thing about The Leo is its location, just steps from trendy shops, boutiques, and St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
On my final morning in Vienna, which happened to be a Sunday, I was up at dawn to catch an early train. I wandered a block from the hotel in the dark to the empty plaza, where only the street sweepers and an early morning jogger were out and about.
I saw a person enter St. Stephen’s Cathedral and decided to follow. Mass was taking place, so I took a seat in the back. The sermon and songs were in German, so I couldn’t understand a word. But I loved watching and listening to the service.
Book a room at The Leo Grand here.
2. Explore Belvedere Palace
The stunning Belvedere Palace was built in the early 18th century as the summer palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Today, the Belvedere stands as one of Vienna’s finest museums and baroque gardens.
Today, visitors stroll through the museum, galleries, and gardens. Set amidst a lush landscape with fountains and Baroque sculptures, the estate also offers a quiet place to relax and reflect.
One of my travel companions said she would come to the gardens to eat lunch when she was a college student living in Vienna, partly because it was free but mostly because of the setting.
Galleries at the Belvedere house include important works such as the famous oil-on-canvas painting, “The Kiss,” by Gustav Klimt. The piece is one of the most famous in the extensive collection, which dates back to the Middle Ages.
To make the most of the collection, book the Skip-the-Line Upper Belvedere Guided Tour on Viator, a guided walk through the palace’s masterworks with skip-the-line entry included.
3. Drink and Dine at a Heuriger
One man played a waltz on the accordion while another strummed the violin when my travel companions and I walked into Schreiberhaus, a “heuriger” or wine tavern.
I instantly loved the lively vibe of this family-owned establishment, where couples, families, and groups of friends gather around tables laden with bottles of wine and food.
Schreiberhaus sits within the city limits of Vienna, but it felt like the countryside.
The sun was just setting as we walked outside to the vineyards. Across the street, homes on a hillside with lights shining through windows looked inviting.
Inside, a server offered a glass of “sturm,” which translates to storm. Sturm is made from young grapes and tastes like juice, but it has a kick. I heeded the warning to “Go easy on the sturm.”
Four of us sat at a table and tasted sips of wine poured by the host of our table.
I am more of a beer connoisseur, but after a few sips, I could distinguish between the wines. We sampled three whites: a Riesling, a Grüner Veltliner (Austria’s signature wine and my favorite), and a Gemischter Satz, as well as three reds. Our table host continued to pour samples as we wrote notes of our impressions on a paper placemat.
Read More: Vienna’s Wine Country: Sipping Your Way Through Europe’s Only Capital City Vineyards
4. Discover Vienna by Sampling the Local Wines and Culture
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
The more wine the guests sampled, the livelier the room became. A musical duo entertained and charmed throughout the evening, taking requests from visitors from Vienna, the UK, Canada, and Australia. The two performed everything from “New York, New York” to “Waltzing Matilda,” as we sang along.
The lively, welcoming atmosphere reminded me of my hometown (pop. 2,000) in western Kansas, where the community often gathers on Saturday nights to dance to polka music at the local VFW hall.
We helped ourselves to schnitzel and brats at the buffet, which also offered vegetarian and vegan choices. Then, we topped it off with the country’s signature dessert, Sacher Torte.
Locals love the tradition of a wine tavern as much as visitors. As we left, a couple of people—still sampling—bid us goodbye in German and wished us well.
5. Let There Be Cake!
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
When my friend and I were backpacking through Europe, we could only peek through the windows of the famous Café Sacher in the heart of Vienna. But on my recent trip, I indulged.
You really can’t go wrong going into any coffee cafe. However, I wanted to have my cake in the birthplace of this rich chocolate confection.
On my last day in Vienna, I sipped a café crema at an outside café as shoppers strolled past arm-in-arm, with well-groomed dogs in tow.
I had fallen in love with the city all over again.
Read More: What Makes Vienna’s Coffeehouses Unlike Anywhere Else
If You Go
Where to Stay: Book a room at The Leo Grand for a central base steps from St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
What to See: The Belvedere Palace houses one of Austria’s greatest art collections, anchored by Klimt’s iconic “The Kiss.” Book the Skip-the-Line Upper Belvedere Guided Tour on Viator — a guided walk through the Upper Belvedere’s masterworks, including Klimt, Van Gogh, and Monet, with skip-the-line entry included.
Where to Eat and Drink: Schreiberhaus is one of Vienna’s best-known heurigen, a traditional wine tavern in the Neustift am Walde neighborhood where locals and visitors gather over local wines and live music. For a taste of Vienna’s most famous dessert in its birthplace, stop into Café Sacher in the city center.
Getting There: Finding the best fare to Vienna is easier than you’d expect — search flights on CheapOair to compare hundreds of options and lock in the best price.
Car Rental: Vienna is an ideal base for exploring Austria beyond the city. Discover Cars searches hundreds of providers to find the best rental rate for your trip.
Travel Insurance: International travel is unpredictable. SafetyWing offers flexible, affordable coverage worth having before you go.
eSIM: Skip the roaming fees — grab an Airalo eSIM before departure and stay connected from the moment you land.
Need a hand planning your trip? Here are the sites and services we rely on most, from booking tools to travel products we love.
Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:
- How to Spend 3 Days in Vienna Like a Local: Complete Weekend Guide
- Vienna, Composed: Cafés, Architecture and the Discipline of Grace
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