There’s something undeniably magical about a city where you can cycle through neighborhoods so charming they make European capitals jealous, then watch humpback whales breach against snow-capped mountains—all before settling down for afternoon tea in a castle-like hotel.
Welcome to Victoria, British Columbia’s fairy-tale capital, situated on Vancouver Island’s southern tip.
This isn’t your typical North American city break. Victoria seamlessly weaves together old-world elegance and Pacific Northwest authenticity, creating experiences that feel both timelessly sophisticated and refreshingly unique.
From million-bloom gardens that attract visitors from around the globe to whale-watching adventures in some of the world’s richest marine waters, Victoria offers the rare combination of urban refinement and natural wonder.
With Canada’s mildest climate and a pace that encourages savoring every moment, this enchanting city proves that extraordinary journeys happen in the most unexpected places.
Here’s why Victoria should be your next escape.
1. Tea at the Fairmont Empress – Pinkies Up
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
A pianist played the theme from Downton Abbey as I walked into the exquisite lobby lounge of the Fairmont Empress for afternoon tea. Well-dressed guests chatted in murmured tones as servers presented trays of scones with clotted cream and strawberry vanilla preserves.
Afternoon tea at the Fairmont Empress tops the list of things to do when you visit Victoria.
The history of afternoon tea is as rich as the rum-whipped ganache. The story goes that in England, during the mid-1800s, the Duchess of Bedford ordered tea and cake to tide her over until dinner at 8. She invited friends to join her, and the tasteful tradition was born.
For our afternoon tea, the menu at the Empress featured truffled mushroom quiche, cucumber sandwiches, smoked salmon and a selection of teas that range from the Empress Blend to Creamy Earl Grey.
Servers delivered teapots and tiered trays of delicacies that looked like dainty portions. But a friend advised me to pace myself. She added, “It feels like you aren’t eating much at first, but you probably won’t finish everything.”
As my friends and I savored tea and cake, a couple on their honeymoon—the bride, wearing a pink gown and fascinator—entered the room.
When I asked if I could take their photo, the bride told me she had dreamed of coming for tea at the Empress since she was a little girl.
2. See Victoria on Two Wheels
Rain and clouds filled the sky on the morning I was scheduled for a three-hour bike tour of Victoria. As it turned out, it couldn’t have been more perfect.
Four customers canceled due to the weather, so with only two guests, we felt like we had a private tour.
It happened to be a Sunday morning, and church bells rang as guide Michael Woodward from The Pedaler Victoria gave safety tips before we set out.
Bicycles in Victoria, Vancouver Island, are as standard as fish and chips in London. People who live on the island are enthusiastic about the environment, health and sustainability. And bicycling. There’s even a bike counter near the Visitor Center with a sensor that tracks the number of bicycles passing by.
The Castles, Hoods and Legends tour took us through wealthy neighborhoods, a cemetery, and Chinatown, where we parked our bikes and explored North America’s narrowest street, Fan Tan Alley.
We stopped for photos at the world’s tallest freestanding totem pole and toured an artsy area called Fernwood, which Woodward described as “where the cool kids live.”
Throughout the tour, Woodward shared history and tips (catch a water taxi to Spinnakers Brew Pub and Restaurant for a burger and a beer), all while keeping a watchful eye for traffic and our safety.
The Pedaler also offers a Happy Hour Guided Tour or a Coastal E-bike Cruise and they will also give recommendations for a self-guided tour.
3. Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse – Sip, Sip, Hooray
Sitting on the outside deck at Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse on a warm fall day with a flight is a glorious way to spend an afternoon. This 10-acre organic farm grows over 50 varieties of apples that they use to craft cider.
Visitors can tour the farm before finding a seat on the deck to sample ciders from sweet to dry and take in ocean and orchard views.
I don’t know my ciders, so I picked them by name and description. The person who wrote the tasting menu did an excellent job.
Ruby Rose is described as “A captivating semi-sweet cider infused with rhubarb; Ruby Rose is a beguiling vixen. She may be as aromatic as rhubarb pie, but her namesake is the merciless Rosa Rugosa, an invasive plant threatening many coastal regions.”
Pippins is “a juicy, expressive, and playful on the tongue; Pippins reveals why cider was North America’s favorite drink before prohibition.”
With our samplings, we nibbled on local cheeses and charcuterie, as well as cider jelly, cider mustard and smoked salmon dip. Staff will suggest pairings of food and ciders.
4. Whale Watching with Prince of Whales
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
The waters near Victoria are one of the best places in the world to see whales in the wild. Prince of Whales Whale Watching Adventures is so sure that guests will see whales that they offer a Whale Sightings Guarantee. You can sign up for another tour at no charge if you don’t see a whale.
On the day we joined the tour, we saw humpback whales, killer whales, and sea lions.
The captain knew exactly where to steer the boat to get the best angle for sightings and the staff pointed out the whales and educated us about the magnificent animal.
The company believes in sustainable whale watching, and fees go toward conservation and carbon offset programs.
5. Butchart Gardens – Bloomin’ Beautiful
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
Cloudless blue skies greeted my travel companions and me the day we visited Butchart Gardens. Along with perfect weather came crowds.
The lavish grounds and vibrant blooms at Butchart Gardens attract approximately one million visitors each year. However, with 55 acres to explore, the area is so vast that we had ample space to take our time and appreciate the gardens.
Jennie Butchart created the Gardens in 1904, and today, her descendants operate the popular tourist site.
Visitors can explore areas like the Japanese Garden, with its red gate marking the entrance. Maple trees and Himalayan Blue Poppies blossom in the late spring. The Rose Garden is also a favorite with an “impressive collection of 2,500 ramblers, climbers and Hybrid Tea Roses.”
The gardens are peaceful and serene, and most people wander at their own pace, even though there’s a recommended route.
There’s even a Garden Etiquette policy. The day I visited, a little girl blasted music on her phone, and a staff member politely asked her to turn it down for the comfort of other guests, explaining that providing a tranquil atmosphere is important for everyone.
At the Seed & Gifts Store, visitors can buy everything from a tea towel to seeds. Staff will add a customs sticker on a bag of seeds, so there are no questions if you need to pass customs.
6. Explore Downtown When You Visit Victoria
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
Government Street, about a five-minute walk from the Empress, hums with shoppers, visitors, and, on many days, cruise ship passengers.
The lively atmosphere makes strolling down this street — featuring cafes, vintage shops, outdoor gear stores, and even a cigar shop — a terrific way to spend the afternoon.
With high ceilings, stunning artwork, and dark wood shelving, Munro’s Books is another favorite when visiting Victoria. I can spend hours in a bookstore, and Munro’s is especially welcoming and well-stocked.
Murchie’s Tea & Coffee was one of my highlights, with shelves of tea and coffee paraphernalia for sale and a café where guests linger over classic tea and scones. The line to get a table can be long, especially if you’re in Victoria when a cruise ship is in port, so it’s best to plan some extra time at Murchie’s.
Eating and drinking are part of the experience when you visit Victoria.
The Courtney Room was named Best Happy Hour and Best Sommelier/Wine Program at the 2023 YAM Best Restaurant Awards.
The restaurant is an extension of The Magnolia Hotel, focusing on ingredients from the Pacific Northwest. Fresh-shucked oysters are a popular menu item at The Courtney.
The restaurant is also known for its steaks, but my friends and I primarily ordered from the small plate menu, featuring dishes like buttermilk-fried mushrooms, beef tenderloin tartare, and seared scallops.
7. Stay at The Fairmont Empress When You Visit Victoria
The Fairmont Empress exudes elegance. Even before walking into this distinguished hotel, the impeccably tended grounds hint at what lies ahead.
When you walk into the main lobby, with its grand staircase and towering ceilings, you know you are in for a luxury experience.
Fairmont Gold accommodations take it up a notch with its “hotel within a hotel” experience.” Guests can access the private Gold Lounge with complimentary breakfast and snacks.
The hotel is known for its Empress 1908 Gin, which has a vibrant blue hue. Guests can sip a proper gin and tonic on the deck with views of the Inner Harbour.
Dining at the Q at the Fairmont Empress could have its own category. Decorated in regal violet colors in honor of Queen Victoria, the Q feels like the place to see and be seen. The Q is stylish and sophisticated, with images of the Queen throughout the dining area, cherry wood ceilings, and sleek furnishings.
You’ll feel like royalty at the Q.
If You Visit Victoria
Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
For more information about Victoria, visit tourismvictoria.com
If you overnight in Vancouver before visiting Victoria, the following are recommended hotels: JW Marriott Parq Vancouver, The DOUGLAS, Autograph Collection, and Fairmont Waterfront.
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