My most memorable moment in Loreto was jumping off a boat into a colony of at least 30 sea lions. I wasn’t about to turn back, but I did hesitate for a second. Would they bite me?
Into the turquoise water I went, where I was surrounded by huge and graceful underwater torpedoes. They didn’t bite me.
I’ve been to Loreto twice. The first time I visited this fishing town of 18,000 in Baja Sur, Mexico, was in October and the second time was in April.
I stayed in two different parts of Loreto. But both trips were about getting into that gorgeous Sea of Cortez as much as possible.
Orienting Yourself in Loreto
Loreto’s biggest attractions for visitors are the town square, Mission Loreto (dating back to 1697), the long beachfront walkway called the malecon and the marina.
All of these sights are within easy walking distance of each other. It’s about 15 minutes from the square to the end of the malecon. So if you plan to stay in town, you don’t need a car.
The marina is located in the center of the malecón. Many fishing, diving, and snorkeling tours start from there. It’s also the best place to watch the hundreds of huge and sassy pelicans beg for fish parts off the fishermen.
Exploring Bahía de Loreto National Park
Whether you’re jumping into a group of sea lions or watching dolphins leap around your boat, a trip to Loreto is all about the water.
The area is known for the Bahía de Loreto National Park. The Mexican government created this marine protected area in 1996. Giant marine mammals pass through here, including blue whales, orcas, sperm whales, humpback whales and dolphins.
Which Island to Visit?
Loreto has five nearby islands. The closest three—Coronados, Carmen, and Danzante—are the most visited. Coronados (also often referred to as Coronado singular) features steep cliffs on its north coast and sandy beaches to the south, along with an active sea lion colony. Carmen is the biggest and highest, while Danzante is smaller, with dramatic cliffs.
We originally booked snorkeling/diving tours with Blue Nation to visit Carmen the first day and Coronados the second. But when we went to get fitted for our gear, we learned that wind conditions wouldn’t be good for Carmen, and so we needed to go to Coronados both days.
On our last full day in town, we arranged a snorkeling trip to Carmen and Danzante. Sure enough, our best fish marine life sightings turned out to be around Coronados, though Danzante was very good, too. It all depends on current sea conditions, so I would defer to the experts in choosing which islands to visit on any given day.
Coronado Island Visit and Swimming with Sea Lions
Diving in the Sea of Cortez
If you’re a water lover like me, it’s important to know that the water temperature in Baja fluctuates a lot. It gets up to about 80 between June and October, but falls to the 60s in winter and spring.
When we visited in April, the temperature was in the high 60s, which is fine for swimming but chilly for snorkeling and diving.
My husband, Gideon, and I went out twice with Blue Nation. I was diving and Gideon was snorkeling. We met our group at the marina, boarded the bright green dive boat Aguacate, and set out for Coronados Island.
On the first day, we had six divers and two guides; on the second day, we had three divers and one guide.
Gideon snorkeled on his own—and saw things we divers didn’t, including a spotted eagle ray and a swimming octopus. Down deeper, we found a sleeping horn shark and some green moray eels.
Snorkeling and Kayaking Around Loreto
Loreto, Mexico, has a couple of city beaches, but they’re not the best snorkeling spots. You’ll see more fish in calmer water if you arrange an outing with one of the many companies that offer snorkeling or diving tours. Plus, they have wetsuits.
On our last day, Gideon and I went out with Loreto Sea & Land Tours to see Carmen and Danzante. It was super relaxing to snorkel and look at fish without worrying about the dive gear.
Our guide made excellent guacamole while Gideon and I explored the water. Dozens of bottlenose dolphins followed our boat, playing in the wake.
On my first visit to Loreto, I went on an excellent SUP and kayak tour with Sea Kayak Baja Mexico. We paddled a stretch of Danzante’s coastline and stopped for lunch at a beach we had all to ourselves.
Renting a Car
Gideon and I rented a car for our first two days in Loreto. It was easy, since Hotel Oasis has an onsite rental office. We paid $90 per day, including insurance.
It’s a little daunting driving around Loreto because there’s a lot of desert and no cell service. I tried not to think about breaking down.
You don’t want to drive outside of Loreto after dark. The potholes on the road north are unreal—some stretch across an entire lane and have sharp edges—and livestock tends to wander into the road.
Speaking of potholes, the car rental insurance doesn’t cover tires. Be very careful. We had to pay $150 to buy our car a new tire. Fortunately, we made it back to town safely.
Visiting Mission San Francis Xavier
On our first drive, we headed up to Mission San Francisco Xavier, located about an hour from Loreto, traveling along winding mountain roads. Lots of pretty little roadside shrines reminded us to drive carefully.
The mission is located in a tiny, peaceful town where you can enjoy lunch and visit an olive grove that’s over 300 years old.
On the way back, we stopped off at a random place a little south of Loreto and tried our luck snorkeling. We’d brought our own masks and snorkels with us from the US, but not wetsuits, so it was a little chilly. But we saw lots of fish near some old wooden pilings.
Seeing the Sights of Mulegé
The second day with our rental car, we drove two hours north to Mulegé. That area is known for Concepcion Bay, the kind of immense turquoise body of water that makes you yell, “Stop here!” at every turn of the road.
We chose Puerto Escondido, where we found an empty changing palapa to use on the beach despite a raging Earth Day party. Here, we snorkeled and swam around a small island.
Mulegé also has a mission and—I’m kicking myself for missing this—14,000-year-old cave paintings just to the north. But we ran out of time before dark. You can only pack so much fun and culture into a day.
Where to Stay in Loreto
During my first visit, I stayed at Posada de las Flores, right on the town square, a few blocks from the mission. The hotel has a beautiful courtyard and a nice rooftop pool.
The location is ideal for cultural activities, such as the Mission Museum and the fabulous mural inside City Hall, which depicts the history of Loreto, as well as for shopping.
On my second visit, we stayed at the beachfront Hotel Oasis, at the end of the malecon. This was very convenient for dashing out with my yoga mat at 5:30 AM and watching the sunrise over Carmen Island.
However, Oasis is close to a local party spot—imagine a raging battle of truck stereos extending into the wee hours—so it can be loud on some nights.
Loreto Veg Dining
Many Loreto restaurants take advantage of the weather and offer outdoor seating. Coming from the rainy Northwest, we sat outside whenever possible.
I’m vegan, and Gideon is vegetarian, so we’re always on the lookout for veg-friendly restaurants. Loreto has a vegan spot called Waicura, run by a charming and enthusiastic man named Andres.
In addition to Mexican dishes, he creates healthy desserts, such as banana-based ice cream and vegan brownies. The café draws its aesthetic theme from the Mulegé cave paintings, and if you’re lucky, Andres will share stories about swimming with dolphins.
While Mexican food rules in Loreto, restaurants serve other cuisines as well. At Mezzaluna, we sat on the deck and ate delicious vegan ravioli.
At Romanita Baja Kitchen, we shared a vegetable and hummus dish while listening to a guitar player’s repertoire of ‘70s soft rock.
My favorite place was Asadero El Super Burro, where we ate twice. This family-run café is a little farther from the beach, and we walked through a local, non-touristy neighborhood to get there.
Veg choices include a huge burrito or a huge potato, both served with lots of fixings like salsas, pickled onions, fresh lime slices and peppers.
Coffee
We are both coffee fiends, always Googling “espresso near me.” Loreto has at least four reliable coffee spots close to the square that open around sevenish for your post-sunrise pick-me-up.
Café Renata (cash only) made an especially good cappuccino. Aroma and bike-themed La Route were also good.
Espresso drinks translate differently in different countries, so if you want a cappuccino instead of a latte, indicate a shorter cup.
If You Go
Loreto is a two-hour flight from Los Angeles, making it easy to reach from the western US.
Beginning scuba divers can complete their online and confined water dives at home with a local dive shop, then proceed with their first open-water dives with Blue Nation or other dive shops in Loreto.
The temperature soars to over 100 degrees from June through September. If you can handle the heat, Loreto will be quieter during these months. And I’ve heard the water is especially clear.
Find out more about Loreto on its official tourism website.
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Author Bio: Teresa Bergen writes about adventure, eco, vegan and sober travel. She’s on a mission to kayak or SUP in every US state and Canadian province—and other countries, too, when she gets the chance. Teresa is the author of [Sober Travel Handbook](https://microcosmpublishing.com/catalog/zines/47854) and [Easy Portland Outdoors](https://www.reedypress.com/shop/easy-portland-outdoors/).
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