For a United States citizen, the only way to travel to Cuba is with a group. I went with Road Scholar with our mission and required visa stating that our trip was in “support of the Cuban people.”
For a long time, the U.S. has made life complicated and difficult for Cubans, starting with taking over the island in 1848.
Modern diplomatic relations are, well, peculiar, with the US maintaining a trade embargo and a convoluted set of restrictions that allow Americans to stay only in certain hotels and eat at selected restaurants.
Travel Requirements for Europeans
If you are a European citizen and want to visit Cuba, travel protocols vary depending on which country you are from.
Europeans need a valid passport. Some countries, like Spain, require the passport to be valid for at least 6 months out.
Europeans also need a Cuba Tourist Card, sometimes mistakenly referred to as a visa. As there are different requirements for those from different countries, check with your Cuban embassy, a reliable travel agent, or tour operator.
Experiencing Cuban Hospitality
The two hotels I stayed at in February 2025, one in Havana and the other in Trinidad, are both modern, huge, and not quite ready for prime time.
Each room I occupied had a problem: a safe that wouldn’t work, hard-to-control A/C, and light switches that were especially good at plunging me into total darkness.
Both hotels are owned and run by the Spanish, whose banking system makes it close to impossible to use dollars, accepted in most places, to pay for anything, even a drink at the hotel bar.
The island’s electrical system is in the hands of the Chinese; our hotels had generators, but in places where there are none, there can be blackouts.
A Culinary and Cultural Experience
The food ranged from pretty good at some paladar’s (locally-owned) restaurants to meh, verging on awful because it’s very hard to get supplies. (This is my personal opinion as a New Yorker and avid foodie.)
Regular, meaning ordinary citizens, not the small upper class, Cubans live with a rationing system organized by the government that establishes how much and how often a person can purchase supplies with special dispensations for young children, people over sixty-five, pregnant women, and others.
We were told that sometimes supplies don’t turn up on time, but that prices are very reasonable when goods are available.
However, rum flows freely, and many restaurants greet diners with a free cocktail, often a mojito; sometimes a rum Collins or Cuba Libre (rum and Coke). Overall, Cubans are friendly and welcoming; women are increasing their authority in many sectors, and literacy is high.
Sometimes, while walking in the streets, I encountered people begging; a polite “no, gracias” mostly discouraged them.
Memorable Experiences
As part of a people-to-people program, we had some especially interesting experiences. In Havana, we played Cuban Dominoes, not that different from the version of my childhood, but, as the instructors spoke Spanish and were highly proficient at the game and most of us lacked both skills, it took on the flavor of an SNL skit.
In Cienfuegos, a town on the island’s south coast, we enjoyed a performance by the local Chamber Orchestra, a five-piece ensemble whose repertoire is very unlike most chamber music as it’s infused with a Latin beat.
The musicians had us up and dancing with them, which was terrific fun and a good way to work off those Cuban carbs. After the orchestra, there was a performance by kids who sang and danced. Again, we joined in.
Exploring Trinidad
Trinidad, a colonial city, has beautifully restored eighteenth-century buildings, some painted in wonderful pinks, blues, and yellows. As is generally true in Cuba, the lovely buildings and the charming Plaza Major are near other buildings that are dilapidated and on the verge of collapse.
Trinidadian streets are paved with rounded cobblestones, so sturdy footwear is a must.
We visited the workshop of Lazaro Nieblas, an artist who carves stunning portraits in wood. Nieblas likes to begin by getting to know his subjects to capture their spirit from the inside. He uses old wood, often doors, to work on and carves amazing faces that emphasize every line and wrinkle of lives lived hard.
Watching him use a chisel is an education in how this simple carpenter’s tool can double as an artist’s instrument.
The Blend of Culture and Heritage
Back in Havana, we went to a Sephardic synagogue in the company of a self-proclaimed Ashkenazic Jew, (why not, this is Cuba where things are often topsy-turvy). Between aging and those who have left the island, the current Jewish population is small.
One evening we were entertained by a wonderful women’s a cappella chorus, Ensemble Voca Luna. The delightful young singers can produce an almost silvery sound or make a trumpet effect by covering their mouths. As was frequently the case, midway through the presentation, each woman introduced herself.
An Unforgettable Ride
And yes, we rode in the famous classic cars. Along with two others, I was in a bright red ‘52 Ford with a Hyundai diesel engine. As we toured the city, all the drivers tooted their klaxons while pointing out sights, including many embassies. Today, the U.S. embassy has no ambassador and a skeleton staff.
Cuba is a fascinating place to visit. Besides the cities, there are lovely beaches, lots of music, and some big smiles. Once upon a time, Cuban citizens enjoyed prosperity. It would be wonderful if they could regain it.
Helpful Tips if You Go:
- Bring hand sanitizer, pocket tissue, or a roll of toilet paper (push out the cardboard middle for easier packing). Bathrooms can be very basic.
- Sunscreen, sun hat, and insect repellent.
- Personal medications, basic first-aid staples, and common over-the-counter products like pain relievers, Pepto-Bismol, electrolyte powders, etc. You will not be able to buy these.
- A washcloth if you use one.
- Batteries/chargers for your camera, phone, and other devices. I did not need an adapter as the voltage where I stayed was 110V or 220V. Travelers from South America, Europe, Asia, and Canada should learn ahead of time what kind of adapter is necessary.
- Small bills ($1s, $5s, $10s) as U.S. credit cards are not accepted. There are no ATMs, so bring as much cash as you anticipate needing.
- Nice, not mandatory: Small items to donate when visiting senior centers, arts groups, schools, etc. Little bottles of shampoo, cough drops, pain relievers, crayons, markers, and pencils are all welcome and don’t take up much luggage space.
- An open mind, curiosity, and a few basic Spanish phrases (please, thank you, bathroom, etc.) which go a long way.
Author Bio: Mari S. Gold is a freelance writer whose work has been published in The New York Times, American Profile, Go Nomad, Passport, Davler Media’s City Guide, Stratton Magazine, Go World Travel, and other outlets. A life-long New Yorker and avid traveler, she also writes on food, theater, dance and cultural events. Her blog, But I Digress… is at www.marigoldonline.net
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