The ocean breeze brushes my face as I lean on the ferry’s deck rail, watching the rugged British Columbia coastline roll past. We glide through the choppy waters of the Salish Sea, weaving between tree-clad islands rimmed with driftwood.
The peaceful setting is a balm after the bustle of Vancouver, which I left behind just hours ago.
While Cortes Island is accessible by floatplane, I’ve chosen the slower route—three ferries and a drive up Vancouver Island. This isn’t just travel; it’s a transition.
Each leg of the journey helps me shed a little more of my busy life as I prepare to immerse myself in nature and wellness at Hollyhock, a learning center and retreat that has been drawing visitors from around the world for over 40 years.
Arrival at Hollyhock

Since 1983, Hollyhock has welcomed seekers of all kinds—artists, CEOs, yogis, healers, and travelers looking to reconnect. Its mission: “to provide a sacred space that inspires, nourishes, and heals.”
Located on 48 lush acres of coastline and forest, Hollyhock blends rustic charm with spiritual intention.
Pathways wind through gardens, cabins are tucked under old-growth cedars, and the rhythm of daily life follows the sun, the tides, and the quiet pulse of the land. It’s a place where you can leave your shoes—and your stress—at the door.
I arrive on a sunny afternoon and am greeted at the main lodge with tea, friendly smiles, and a soft invitation to “take your time.” Already, I feel different.
A Garden That Nourishes

Walking the grounds, I’m struck by the sense of abundance, not just in the lush forest and garden beds, but in the spirit of generosity that pervades everything here.
The air is filled with the scent of herbs and saltwater. Hummingbirds dart between flower stalks. Bees work diligently in the organic garden.
The retreat’s biodynamic garden is a living, breathing centerpiece. Towering sunflowers stretch toward the sky, squash and pumpkins sprawl under thick vines and beds of leafy greens glow under the afternoon sun.
All of it is grown without pesticides, nourished by compost and moon cycles and infused with loving attention. This is where dinner comes from.
Meals at Hollyhock are communal, vegetarian and stunningly fresh. Each dish is a celebration of seasonal ingredients—hand-harvested greens tossed with homemade vinaigrette, roasted root vegetables with rosemary, and hearty soups brimming with color.
Guests gather at long wooden tables, sharing stories, laughter, and a kind of ease that only comes from good food and genuine company.
Simple Comforts, Deep Rest

My accommodation is modest but cozy, with warm wood accents and an expansive view of the ocean.
I share a bathroom and hallway with two other guests, but there’s a shared sense of trust and ease. There are no TVs or keys. Shoes are left at the door. The simplicity fosters an openness that feels rare in today’s world.
Other cabins and lodges are scattered among the trees, each designed to encourage rest, reflection and connection with nature.
Learning and Exploration

Though I’ve come for quiet and restoration, many visitors attend Hollyhock for its acclaimed workshops, taught by international leaders in wellness, arts, ecology, Indigenous knowledge and personal development.
From yoga retreats to leadership summits, the calendar is packed with engaging opportunities. Yet even without enrolling in a program, there’s much to experience.
Morning yoga classes gently wake the body. Forest walks help reconnect with nature. The nearby shoreline invites quiet reflection—and sometimes a surprise seal sighting. Kayaking trips and guided nature tours offer deeper immersion into the surrounding ecosystem.
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Forest, Sea, and Stillness
Nature here is not just a backdrop—it’s a partner in healing. Just a short walk from my lodge is a pebble beach, perfect for morning reflections or tide pool exploration.
The shoreline stretches out into Desolation Sound, where seals bob among the kelp beds and eagles soar overhead.
On my second day, I joined a guided kayaking tour that took us through quiet inlets and along rocky coastlines. Our guide points out purple sea stars clinging to the rocks, schools of herring darting beneath us, and towering Douglas firs reaching toward the sky.
We paddle in silence for long stretches, letting the water and wildlife do the talking.
Later, I walk a shaded trail through the forest, my footsteps muffled by moss. Everywhere I go, there’s a sense of deep time—an ancient patience that makes my usual worries feel small.
Spa Sanctuary in the Woods

One of Hollyhock’s best-kept secrets is its Bodywork Studio, nestled quietly among the trees. The scent of cedar fills the air, and the space is filled with light and calm.
Floor-to-ceiling windows open to views of the forest, and the treatment rooms are adorned with natural elements—smooth river stones, driftwood sculptures, woven textiles.
I book a combination massage with Bruce, whose intuitive touch quickly uncovers and unravels my tension. “Take time to be good to yourself,” he says softly as the session ends. I feel both lighter and more rooted.
The next day, I return for an aromatherapy session with Jocelan. She blends custom essential oils to suit my emotional and physical needs—lavender for relaxation, eucalyptus for energy, bergamot to balance the heart.
As she gently works the oils into my skin, I feel layers of stress dissolving.
A Sacred Space
Just beyond the spa lies Hollyhock’s Meditation House, constructed entirely from materials gathered on-site.
Built with sacred intention, the space exudes stillness. Inside, natural light spills across cedar floors. Cushions are arranged in a welcoming circle. Silence reigns.
Though I’ve never been one to meditate daily, something about this space invites me to linger.
I sit cross-legged on a cushion, watching sunlight filter through the trees and listening to the breeze rustle the leaves. No thoughts, no goals—just presence.
Evening Under the Stars

At night, guests gather in the outdoor hot tub perched above the sea. There are no streetlights on Cortes Island, so the only illumination comes from headlamps and the Milky Way.
Steam curls into the cool air. The conversations are unguarded—heartfelt, meandering, true.
“This place is like the womb,” a man from Seattle muses. “Or a cocoon,” offers a guest from Toronto. We nod. The metaphors fit.
In this quiet, supportive place, we’re all becoming a little more ourselves.
Leaving Lighter

When it’s time to leave, I’m not ready—but I’m grateful. My body feels rested, my mind clearer and my spirit recharged. I’ve found a slower rhythm, a deeper breath, and a renewed sense of connection—both with nature and with myself.
I board the ferry with wind in my hair, salt on my skin, and a small jar of garden herbs in my bag.
But what I carry home from Hollyhock is harder to see and impossible to forget: a reminder that healing begins in stillness, and that sometimes, the most profound journeys happen without going far at all.
If You Go
Hollyhock Retreat Center, Cortes Island, British Columbia, Canada
Getting There:
From Vancouver, take a ferry to Vancouver Island (Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo or Tsawwassen to Duke Point), then drive to Campbell River. From there, take two more ferries: Campbell River to Quadra Island, then Quadra to Cortes Island. Travel time is approx. 6–8 hours. Floatplane options are available via charter from Vancouver.
When to Visit:
Hollyhock operates from May to October, with peak programming in July and August. Spring and fall offer a quieter atmosphere for solo retreats.
What to Expect:
- Shared and private lodging options
- Daily yoga and meditation
- Organic meals sourced from on-site gardens
- Spa services and forest/ocean activities
- Workshop programs on wellness, ecology, arts, and more
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Author Bio: Since 1996, while freelancing, Jane Cassie has had thousands of articles published. Her stories have appeared CNN Magazine, Northwest Travel, New York Daily News, Chicken Soup For The Soul, Dreamscapes, Air Canada In-flight, Cottage Life, Epicure and Travel, just to name a few. She has been a regular contributor to Spa Life, INNspire, North American Inns Magazine, Cottage, and is a regular contributor to Inspire Magazines.
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