It’s almost 7 am when I awaken to the sounds of the sea. Opening my eyes, I see the first rays of the sun bringing a new day to the South Pacific.
There’s nothing to block my view since one side of our room is completely open to the sea. So, I lay back on my pillow and watch the sun rise over the clear blue water.
Yup, I’m definitely going to like it here in Tonga.
Where is Tonga?
Before arriving at this island paradise, I didn’t know much about Tonga. The Kingdom of Tonga (yes, they have a king) is a Polynesian nation in the South Pacific about 2,000 miles southwest of Hawaii. Its population of 100,000 is spread over 45 of Tonga’s 171 islands.
To reach the island nation, my husband, Benjamin, and I flew to Fiji, and then on to Vava’u, Tonga, where a boat took us to the small private island of Fetoko.
Private Island Eco-Resort for Just 10 Guests
Three-acre Fetoko Island is home to Mandala Resort, a luxury eco-resort run by TradeWinds, a global company committed to sustainable tourism and luxury sailing experiences. The private island resort offers 7-day all-inclusive stays to just 10 guests per week, and we are lucky to be two of them.
This intimate scale means you’re not just another face in the crowd—you become part of a small community for the week, sharing meals and adventures with the same group of fellow travelers.
From Treehouse-Style Rooms to Waterfront Bungalows
The island has five fales (Tongan for house) – some are treehouse-style rooms on stilts, lifted high into the trees. Others, like the one we’re staying in, are waterfront bungalows.
Mandala doesn’t try to fight against nature or control it—instead, the resort seems to blend seamlessly into the environment, working with the trade winds, the rain patterns and natural materials.
Each building’s design is in harmony with its surrounding nature. (One of my friends here has a tree in her fale.) Even giant clam shells are used as lamp shades to light the paths through the island.
Life here is to be lived in nature. Bedrooms and bathrooms have open-air designs that flow seamlessly into the ocean breeze, eliminating the need for air conditioning.
Our “fale” sits on the edge of the island overlooking the sea. One wall opens completely, so we leave it open all week, falling asleep and waking to the sounds of the ocean. (No mosquito problems here.)
The sea is so clear that one morning, we can see a school of trumpet fish swimming beneath our deck. Another time, we watch a sea turtle gracefully swim past.
Though I can see neighboring islands in the distance, the rest of the world seems very far away – and the stresses of daily life slip away.
Sometimes, when the world seems crazy, nature has her own way of healing.
Tonga’s Sustainable Private Island Getaway
The resort operates entirely off-grid, powered by solar energy and sustained by rainwater collection and a reverse osmosis water system.
It just goes to show that eco-conscious travel doesn’t mean sacrificing comfort or adventure – and with travelers increasingly seeking authentic, sustainable experiences, Mandala Resort is a compelling model.
Our small numbers mean that we quickly get to know the other guests at the resort. The restaurant and beach area are the common gathering areas, and we enjoy our time together at family-style meals and relaxing at the beach.
Neutrino, the island’s happy Black lab, and its two friendly island cats greet us whenever they see us.
Delicious Cuisine Made-from-Scratch
I quickly find that meals at Mandala Resort are a highlight. Tilly, the first mate, is an excellent cook. She whips up delicious dishes made from scratch, including bread, granola, and even pickles, and serves them with such flair that they always look picture-ready.
Mandala Resort grows some of its own produce at its hydroponic farm in Vava’u and works with local farmers on other islands to source fresh ingredients it needs.
Locally caught seafood is a prominent feature, but they also have top-quality meat products sourced from New Zealand.
The staff at Mandala Resort is a pleasure to be around, and getting to know them is another highlight of our stay. Laurie and Benji are from France, while Tilly and Kyle are from England and Scotland, respectively. Local Tongan women are also integral to the team.
One afternoon, two young ladies patiently teach us a Tongan dance. While none of us looks very graceful, it’s a fun way to learn more about Tongan culture.
Exploring the Sea with Water-Filled Adventures
Captain Kyle leads all the island activities. Each morning at breakfast, he shares the day’s activities. The surrounding seas are rich with sea life and healthy coral reefs.
Our days usually include a snorkeling or diving excursion, either on the house reef or somewhere nearby. As a diver, I’m thrilled to experience the sea below, but truth be told, the snorkeling is just as amazing.
One afternoon, we boat over to Swallows Cave, a stunning natural cavern with cathedral ceilings.
First, we snorkel along the reef in front of the cave, a scene so rich in variety of sea life that it’s hard to keep track of what I’ve seen. Then we snorkel into Swallows Cave itself, a unique experience in its own right.
Another evening, when it grows dark, Kyle gives us each underwater torches and we boat out to the house reef. Donning snorkel gear, we jump in. The seas look so different at night, and the light of our flashlights reveals tiny squid and schools of sleeping fish. Some coral even looks incandescent.
Snorkeling at night is such a different way to explore the ocean, and we’re gushing about all we saw when we finally head in for the night.
On the resort beach, we have access to a wide array of water toys from kayaks and standup paddleboards to an underwater sea scooter and a Hobie Cat for sailing.
It even rains in paradise, and on one rainy evening, Kyle hosts a Scottish Ceilidh and teaches us a Scottish dance.
Learning More About Tongan Culture
I’m eager to learn more about Tonga and its culture, and the resort’s approach to cultural exchange feels authentic and welcoming.
What sets Tongan culture apart from other Pacific islands is its deep emphasis on family, respect, and the concept of “Ofa” (love)—values that remain strong despite the influence of modern times.
One afternoon, we take a boat to the local island of Ofu, where a local leader takes us on a tour of her village. We stop by the local school, where schoolchildren share some of their songs.
They even teach us a song, and smiles spread all around as we sing together. Later, we stop by the village weaving hall to meet artisans who weave beautiful grass baskets and artwork.
At a Tongan cultural feast with a local family, we sample dishes prepared in the traditional style—wrapped in banana leaves and baked in an underground ‘umu’ pit oven.
Relaxed and Rejuvenated
By the end of our week, I realize that I have lived a whole different kind of life here in Tonga.
I haven’t looked at a clock, but have listened for the sound of a conch call to know it’s time for meals.
Though I had started the week in flip-flop shoes, I quickly discarded them and have spent most of the week barefoot.
I haven’t needed my travel sound machine once (a small white-noise device to drown out city sounds or loud neighbors) because I have had the constant, soothing song of the sea.
I haven’t needed AC, because the gentle island breeze has kept me cool.
Best of all, the stress of the world has seemed far away. I have spent most of my time laughing with my husband, talking with new and old friends and exploring the sea.
There’s something so grounding about disconnecting from the world while being so intimately connected to the ocean and the people sharing the journey with you.
On the last evening, we gather on the beach around the campfire, listening to the crackle of fire and the sound of the waves. The sky is sprinkled with thousands of stars, and I can see my favorite constellation, the Southern Cross.
Tonga, I realize then, has been good for the soul—a reminder that sometimes the most profound luxury is simply being present in an extraordinary place with wonderful people.
If You Go
When to Visit Tonga
We visited in June, and the weather was warm and pleasant. The ocean breezes kept us cool.
How to Get to Tonga
Fiji Airways flies to Tonga from Fiji. We flew from Denver to Los Angeles, then on to Nadi, Fiji. From there, we took a smaller Fiji Airways jet to Vava’u in Tonga. We took a boat from Vava’u to Mandala Resort.
Mandala Resort by Tradewinds – Tonga
Mandala Resort accommodates just 10 guests per week for 7-day all-inclusive stays. For more info, see Trade-Winds.com
More About TradeWinds
In addition to Mandala Resort by Tradewinds – Tonga, TradeWinds has resorts in the Grenadines and Belize, creating “Aqua-Terra” experiences that blend water and land accommodations.
The company is best known for its all-inclusive sailing vacations at carefully selected destinations around the world, with a focus on remote locations that offer authentic connections to pristine marine environments.
TradeWinds is recognized as a leader in ecotourism, with a strong emphasis on environmental stewardship. Their first electric-powered yacht, Aurora, was launched in 2024.
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