I’m sitting in the increasingly popular Frici Papa restaurant in Budapest on a mild winter’s day. The humble restaurant has become a go-to spot for tourists thanks to its traditional decor and reasonably priced dishes. As I shovel a forkful of marhapörkölt and nokedli into my mouth, something deeply disconcerting catches my eye.
I peer at the plates of a loud group of Spanish tourists to my left. A sense of disappointment washes over me as they dump bowls of French fries over their paprikás csirke. I shake my head and return to my food with a bitter taste in my mouth, masking flavors that would usually flood me with a sense of nostalgia.
As a Hungarian living in Spain, I’m routinely reminded of the superiority of their cuisine, and as I watch the mistakes unfold around me in the hectic restaurant, I begin to understand why.
There’s no doubt that Budapest is more renowned for its thermal baths, ruin bars, and Parliament building than its cuisine, but does it have to be like this? Do I have to put up with the condescending comments from my Spanish friends for the rest of my life? Maybe with some guidance, opinions could be swayed.
For anyone who wanders into a Hungarian restaurant and feels the temptation to order something familiar like breaded chicken breast, French fries, or a hamburger, consider taking a risk and ordering the following meal.
An Order That Does Hungarian Cuisine Justice
The Main: Paprikás Csirke
Although the picture suggests that this isn’t a dish that would turn many heads for presentation, the flavors more than make up for a lack of visual appeal. Paprikás csirke (chicken breast cooked with paprika powder) is a Hungarian classic and a favorite of mine.
It embodies the tradition of Hungarian cooking’s predisposition to using paprika extremely liberally whenever possible, and it’s a must-try dish when visiting the country. Any decent local restaurant will have this dish on the menu, and if they don’t, it might be worth moving on.
The Garnish: Nokedli
The garnish matters. Arguably, as much as the main dish itself. While rice or fries might evoke a temptation to play it safe, this would be a cardinal sin. Nokedli, a sort of Hungarian take on gnocchi, is the perfect garnish for paprikás csirke. The soft white hunks of perfectly soft nokedli complement the strong paprika flavor of the chicken and provide the perfect neutral canvas, allowing the sauce to shine and delivering the traditional, comforting mouthful you’re meant to experience.
The Sides: Uborkasaláta, Csalamádé, and Almapaprika
Sides in Hungary tend to bring a sour, sweet, and spicy edge to the table. The contrast is very much welcome, but often the strange names on the menu discourage tourists.
A good place to start is a serving of Uborkasaláta, which translates simply to cucumber salad. It’s generally served in a small glass dish with thinly sliced sweet and sour cucumber slices. For more variety, consider Csalamádé, which combines shredded cabbage, red pepper, and cucumber with a sweet and sour vinegar-based topping. And finally, an almapaprika, a round pepper infused with considerable spice, is perfect for those looking to add some heat to their meal.
The Dessert: Somloi Galuska
Sponge cake, raisins, walnuts, cream, and chocolate—arguably the perfect dessert. There’s no better way to get a feel for the Hungarian sweet tooth than with a decent helping of Somlói Galuska. So, don’t be tempted by the cheesecake or the ice cream; finish your meal with a proper local calorie bomb.
The Pálinka: Walnut or Peach
The Italians have limoncello, the French have Cognac, and the Hungarians have pálinka. It might not have the same global appeal as its Western counterparts, but the powerful liquor infused with dozens of different flavors is a must. I normally go for walnut or peach, but regardless of the flavor, the spirit will have the same powerful effect.
With the Shot of Pálinka Administered, the Meal Comes to Its Natural Conclusion.
I’ve tried to spend more of my time in the restaurants of Budapest, enjoying my food instead of worrying about what those around me order. Based on the time I’ve spent writing this article, it’s safe to say that in this endeavor, I have failed. However, I hope that I’ve contributed to sharing the keys to enjoying Budapest’s food scene, guiding you past the mistakes of ordering the familiar instead of the traditional.
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Author Bio: Barcelona-based Peter Barker is a freelance writer and editor who has covered stories ranging from solo-travelling in Central Asia to hiking in the Balkans. His travels have taken him to over 40 countries, and his work has appeared in outlets such as Newsweek, Yahoo Finance, and The Daily Mirror.
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Amazing article!! Your writing has convinced me to return to Budapest and eat these incredible foods once again.