“To save the future, we need to rescue the past.”
I found it difficult to imagine that this intimate retreat with its fresh, bright and modern style was originally constructed by the Dutch East India Company in 1777, to house troops who supervised the storage and shipment of timber from the bay until it was purchased by the Anglican Church in 1869.
Today, it is reborn as a boutique hotel; its lovely, thatched Cape Dutch style is designed with plenty of modern class. This National Monument blends heritage and hospitality with effortless grace.
Spirit Of Reinvention
The buildings have been immaculately restored and expanded from a military barracks to a whalers’ home, school, blacksmith’s workshop, chapel and later the rectory for the Anglican Church. Today, it is recreated as a boutique 5-star hotel, the lovely Cape Dutch style mixed with plenty of contemporary features. The building’s architectural heritage, being the oldest building in Plettenberg Bay, is combined with striking South African art, turning the former rectory into a design haven.
The main building interiors have a modern look and feel that elevate the beauty of features such as the original thick stone walls, oak beams, casement windows and yellowwood floors. I felt as if I had stepped back in time and was discovering the rich heritage of The Old Rectory, where history felt alive.
The building still captures the essence of its namesake and, surprisingly, aside from a minor update in 1887, very few structural alterations have been made to this landmark, making it a rare piece of architectural history that remains virtually intact from the days of its construction about 250 years ago.
Location
A place that’s still little known outside South Africa, Plettenberg Bay is a chic resort set on a dreamy arc of golden sand with a backdrop of densely forested mountains.
The small town of Plettenberg has a generous handful of artisan craft shops, boutique galleries and small studios, so it’s a lovely place for sunny window-shopping. I could stroll from the beach into town, as there is a quaint town to explore as well as a variety of excellent restaurants and beachside bars.
And if it’s a little respite that you seek, there’s nowhere you’re more likely to find deliverance than the Old Rectory, a place that’s been devoted to the quiet life for well over a hundred years. The hotel is situated in a peaceful cul-de-sac and just meters away from the beach of the postcard-pretty town of Plettenberg Bay.
It is known for its pristine sun-bleached sandy beaches that stretch as far as the eye can see. The continuous rhythmic pulse of the waves and frothing surf lends itself to sunrise and sunset strolls along the beach. As the property is near several attractions, places to explore are plentiful, and there is a flourishing local wine route to discover around the area, too.
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Vibrant Contemporary Rooms
It was a wonderful surprise to go from the white exterior walls and neatly trimmed thatched roof to the hotel’s eclectic suite interiors. The 18 individually styled suites range across the hotel’s first and second floors, each overlooking the immaculate garden and some of the pool area, too.
With a palette of bright white walls and colourful bursts of blues, lime greens and yellows, they have a fresh, modern feel with lots of natural light. The vibrant artwork and the splashes of colour have been inspired by the foliage and wildflowers found along the Garden Route.
All suites are similar in size and have an open-plan bathroom with a deep ceramic bath, a waterfall shower and double basins. What allured me was the beautiful bottles of luxurious, aromatic bath salts and foam – this prompted me to take the opportunity soon after arriving to pamper myself with a deep bath and a glass of the boutique wine from the local vineyard, Kay and Monty, who welcomed us.
The rooms are also exceptionally comfortable, with king-sized beds, plush pillows and mattresses and underfloor heating. Private outdoor terraces supplied with candles make for relaxing private moments after a bath or after dinner. Inter-leading suites can be arranged for families.
Culinary Delights
With its original thick, golden-coloured stone walls, Restaurant 1777 is rustically elegant, with high beamed ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers and rough cotton upholstery. The attractive restaurant is narrow with only 10 tables, which makes for a very inviting and intimate space.
So beautiful are the ancient stone walls that no artwork was necessary, but well-placed lighting made the space feel like the entire area was a magnificent piece of art. I felt that history and hospitality converged, taking me on an unforgettable journey through time.
The menu is also rooted in the history of the Western Cape, showing influence from African, French, Dutch and British cuisine, reflecting the diverse group that made Plettenberg Bay their home. Fittingly for a restaurant that’s a stone’s throw from the ocean, there’s plenty of line-caught fish and flavoursome seafood dishes. The crispy battered squid heads were artistically served and followed by scrumptious smoky mussels, served in a rich cream sauce, much enjoyed by my husband. I chose tangy lemon salmon and herb fishcakes with scattered crispy greens, and then perfectly cooked rib of lamb with chimichurri and tender vegetables.
All the dishes were exquisitely presented using plenty of crisp mustard greens. Although the menu changes to reflect the seasons and the fresh, organic produce they bring, there are a few favourites that appear regularly.
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A Commitment To The Earth
Beyond preservation, the hotel is dedicated to a circular economy. A supplementary solar power system now provides up to 70% of the hotel’s electricity, significantly reducing its carbon footprint. Sustainability is woven into daily operations: food waste is donated to local farmers, while used cooking oil is collected to be converted into high-quality biodiesel. Even old linens are given a second life, donated to a local children’s home to be repurposed into clothes and blankets.
Old Meets New
Like the restaurant, Nibbles Bar has one foot in the past, showcasing the bar’s yellowwood floors which exude warmth; original beams, exposed stonework and recessed windows – but the copper pipe shelving and exposed bulbs ensure the other is planted firmly in the present.
Take your pick from the stools in front of the bar or sink into the leather chesterfield, which lends a vintage touch to the look. Alongside a selection of craft gins, single malt whiskies and cocktails, there’s also a fine wine list, including bottles from the hotel’s winery in The Crags.
Cosy Corner
The very cosy lounge has a huge hearth and a large roaring wood fire that is lit every evening. This creates a warm, inviting and dramatic atmosphere perfect for cosy gatherings. We settled into this area for pre-dinner drinks and menu choices, enjoying the seductive fire’s flickering flames and the scent of smoke, evoking a sense of comfort and rustic charm.
Wellness Spa
Even the former church barn has found new life as a serene in-house spa, honouring the property’s legacy of care and quiet retreat. The Sanctuary Spa is in a historic, thatch-roofed building which used to be a chapel and then a schoolroom.
The interiors are mostly white and decorated with a smattering of tropical greenery; candles, calming music and soft lighting, and vases of freshly cut flowers set the mood. There’s a hammam and three treatment rooms, some large enough to accommodate couples. The menu includes various massages; skincare treatments including facials, manicures and pedicures; and couple-specific options like the intriguingly named ‘Moonlight Treatment’.
Pool And Facilities
Outside, you’ll find a good-sized pool, loungers and an alfresco dining area on an elevated wooden deck beside the rim-flow pool. The area is shaded by ancient milkwood trees and other indigenous trees in a pretty small garden. The hotel pampers guests with its modern furnishings and detailed touches, such as the provision of sunscreen at their pool deck along with large fluffy pool towels.
During the summer, and as the beach is only a 5-minute stroll away, the staff will happily take down beach towels, umbrellas and deck chairs and set them up for guests, as well as bespoke picnics.
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Worth Getting Out Of Bed For
The expansive beaches, nature reserves and small-town charm make Plettenberg Bay a restorative sort of place – and the hotel is very much in tune with its surroundings. Absorbing the surprising, whimsical decor around every corner, from one-of-a-kind statues to avian wallpaper and vivid artwork.
Having started its operations only in September 2017, the Old Rectory Hotel’s owners worked hard with the historical society to preserve some of these historical elements, which gave the property a British colonial vibe the moment we entered. Clues to the early history of the property can be found in the stone walls at the reception and the chapel that is now converted into the spa room. The designers and architects have achieved seamless transitions from antique to modern and back again.
The Old Rectory is part of the Rare Earth Collection of exceptional, handpicked properties of family-owned retreats, each with its unique charm and character. The exquisite heritage hotel, the Old Rectory, showcases the beauty and diversity of South Africa.
“If you want to understand today, you must search yesterday.”
Stepping into an historic hotel is like entering a time capsule. A feeling of both awe and a gentle ache for the past. The air hums with the echoes of countless lives and evokes a sense of both past richness and the weight of time, creating a sense of being part of something larger and more enduring.
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Author Bio: As an enthusiastic travel writer who is passionate about Africa’s finest lodges, Diane loves to share stories of hidden gems, breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable experiences. Diane has traveled extensively in sub-Saharan Africa and many other interesting places around the world. She currently lives in Kenya.
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