
In the 17th century, King Henry IV of France decreed that a giant ditch be dug across the country connecting the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Soon, barges pulled by horses or people transported raw materials, grain, textiles and, this being France, wine, through the channel.
That waterway was the first of an elaborate network of canals that crisscross the
countryside, passing over aqueducts and through tunnels, and navigating locks which
enabled them to climb up and down hills.
I recently followed one of these routes. But the formerly no-frills working boat, in which I rode, had been transformed into a luxurious floating hotel and gourmet restaurant. It carries 12 passengers and a very attentive crew of six, along one of those historic canals, stopping each day to allow travelers to explore an inviting variety of attractions.
I was sailing with French Country Waterways, an American-owned company that operates four luxurious passenger barges along canals in four regions of that country.
From a Working Barge to a Luxury Passenger Boat

The Nanuphar, on which I traveled, was built in the 1930s to serve as a working boat. Today, it rivals multi-starred hotels in which I’ve stayed. Cherry wood paneling, brass fittings, lovely provincial furnishings and plush carpets set the tone.
Cabins have a private bathroom and individual heat/air conditioning controls. The lounge invites relaxation on comfortable sofas and chairs, and offers a well-stocked complimentary bar.
The food and wine served aboard the barge vied for attention and admiration with the
magnificent scenery through which the boat passed. Think foie gras with brioche and apple. Picture confit duck with braised red cabbage and haricot beans.
In addition, Chef Milly ventured onshore and returned with warm-from-the-oven croissants, fresh fruits and vegetables, and other taste-tempting treats.
Then there’s the French claim that no lunch or dinner is complete without wine. We were offered vintages representing some of the country’s wine-growing districts, many of which were from Grand Gru (great growth) and Premier Cru (first growth) vineyards.
Adding to the appeal are members of the doting bilingual staff, who, I concluded, could not feign the genuine warmth and friendliness with which they interact among the paying passengers.
Passengers Have an Inviting Choice of Activities
As the vessel moves slowly along canals, those on board face a welcome choice of alternatives.
Relax and watch passenger boats, houseboats, working barges and other vessels pass by. Step ashore at one of the locks the boat traverses and walk, or pedal a provided bicycle, to the next lock. Go to the front deck and watch the barge navigate through one of the locks that raise or lower the water level.
Because the canals climb hills and run through valleys, locks handle changes in elevation. These devices allow boats to rise up or drop down to the level of the next stretch of the channel.
Mountain Vistas, Vineyards and Charming Villages

The canals offer views of rolling vineyards, dense forests, lush farmlands and mountain vistas, along with charming villages. These towns immerse visitors in history, cultural gems and architectural treasures.
Typical, yet with unique distinctions, is Montargis. Due to its many canals and bridges, I was told 131 it has overpasses; the village is nicknamed “the Venice of the Gatinais region.” It has been listed as one of the most beautiful places to visit in France. Its Medieval downtown area skirts both a river and a canal, and a multitude of flowers decorates buildings and bridges.
Strolling through the town during a shore excursion, I spotted a house with “1337” above its front door – the year it was built. The Musée du Gâtinais displays objects dating from prehistory and the Gallo-Roman period.
Those with a sweet tooth seek out the local specialty: Montargis pralines, which are delicious caramelized roasted almonds.
Other day trips included an assortment of places that provide introductions to a diverse
sampling of French history, life and culture.
Variety of Day Trips With French Country Waterways

Sancerre is an enchanting ancient hilltop wine village. Outside of the peak summer tourist months, it’s a sleepy place similar to other small towns, where few people are seen walking along its steep, narrow streets. Houses sport ancient doors, wrought iron balconies and steeply pitched roofs.
Those who climb the stone Tour des Fiefs (estate tower) to enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside are in the only remaining vestige of a 14th-century castle.
A sign on a wine shop announced that it has been in business since 1513. A tour guide referred to a place of worship, which was built in the 18th century, as the “new church.”
Fargeau Castle, situated between the Loire and the Yonne rivers in the small historic town of Saint Fargeau, is known in part for its unusual pentagonal shape. It was built between the 10th and 13th centuries as a hunting lodge, as were many other palaces.
History-rich villages, inviting vineyards and world-class food and wines greet visitors to
France with open arms. Taking in these attractions during a canal barge cruise adds a welcome way to enjoy much of what the popular destination has to offer. To me, the boat cruise alone is worth the cost.
Fares for French Country Waterways cruises include all of the onboard gourmet meals, fine wines, a memorable dinner at a starred Michelin Guide restaurant, around-the-clock snacks, an open bar, shore excursions and more.
For more information, log onto fcwl.com or call 800-222-1236.