A Quest for the Best Frango Assado in Portugal’s Algarve

I feel a rush of nostalgia as I cut through the crispy, bronzed skin of freshly grilled chicken into the succulent flesh below and take my first coveted bite.

As the seasoned forkful coats my tongue, I realise that our quest to find the best Churrasqueira in the Algarve has once again been rewarded by the savoury delights of this bustling eatery.

In this southernmost region of Portugal, synonymous with beaches, golf courses and cork production, we were on the hunt for a very different Algarve experience.

We weren’t seeking the 300+ days of sunshine a year. Nor the dramatic rocky cliffs of the western Algarve or even the sandy, dune-backed beaches of the east.

Our mission was to seek out the best Frango Assado, the ubiquitous barbecue chicken found all across this locality.

Eat With the Locals

My first visit to the legendary Churrasqueira Paraíso ‘Luís dos Frangos’, hidden from tourists in the commuter town of São Brás de Alportel, was sometime in the late 1980s. There, even as a small child on a family holiday, I appreciated the uniqueness of the Portuguese Frango Assado experience.

Eyeing the locals queuing and jostling for table space, I was grateful that we had insider knowledge to arrive early. Watching the tables of men on their lunch breaks supping on mini bottles of Super Bock and women on separate tables talking loudly about the events of their mornings, it felt as if time had stood still.

Founded by its namesake, Luis Correia, the restaurant is now run by the next generation of family. With the current restaurant built on a small plot of land, opening its doors in 1980, the weekday lunch rush is unchanged since the restaurant’s inception around the corner in 1977.

Watching a Grill Master at Work

At the front of the building, it’s possible to watch the skilled grill master sweating over hot coals, meticulously turning each chicken to crispy perfection.

Unlike some Churrasqueiras where the chicken is chopped into smaller pieces, one of the more pleasing aspects here is that they serve the chicken whole, piri piri on the table optional (who would ever need it?).

With a bottle of ‘Ucal’ chocolate milk, complete with a stripy straw, in one hand, I fork crunchy, hand-cut chips and delightfully succulent chicken into my mouth. My last experience of this wonderful establishment was six years ago. This time, my husband and I promise each other we won’t wait that long before our next visit.

Hidden Foodie Gems

Our pilgrimage to find the hidden gems of the Portuguese Churrasqueira didn’t, however, start here. Our eight-day trip to the Algarve centred on three areas that enabled us to explore the lesser-trodden paths of this tourist haven. And to experience some of the best barbecue chicken in places other visitors may never take the time to seek out.

At our first location, we eschew the cobbled, tourist-laden streets of pretty Ferragudo after a day of jumping icy waves on Praia dos Caneiros. Instead, we walk in the opposite direction towards an industrial and residential area.

We admire the hordes of White Storks competing for prime nest space on chimney stacks, streetlights and even the Staples store sign. Silhouetted against the setting sun, these huge birds are a common sight. They provide amusement as we search out ‘Churrasqueira Brenda’.

Arriving a bit early, we join the local grandpas in the padaria (bakery) for a beer as we wait for Brenda’s to open. Glad once again to be early, we are welcomed into the cafeteria-like interior.

This unpretentious eatery caters primarily to local workers. It offers primarily two choices, ‘chicken’ or ‘fish’, washed down with delightfully cold Vinho Verde served by the litre.

We finish the meal with sweet, cinnamon-scented cold rice pudding and plan our next location.

Away From The Beaches

Next, we travel inland. High in the hills of Monchique, we marvel at the construction of the boardwalks and suspension bridge crossing the Devil’s Gorge. This scenic mountain hiking trail was built in 2023 and offers a welcome contrast to the Algarve’s better-known beach scene.

The scent of rockrose, eucalyptus and pine envelops us as we sweat our way back to the top of the 500+ steps from the gorge. Our reward: crisp Frango Assado, skin tangy with piri piri, cooked over coals at Palmeirinha dos Chores in Monchique town.

Tucked away from the main tourist hub, this family-run establishment is a hive of community activity. It is famous throughout the Serra de Monchique region for its simple regional food.

This time the chicken was cooked on charcoal on a small terrace by a lady who liberally doused the portions with a paintbrush laden with piri piri. We washed spicy mouthfuls of succulent chicken down with icy bottles of Sagres beer.

Returning to our newly refurbished hotel, ‘Aqua Vista Monchique’, we sat by the rooftop pool. With mountain views all the way down to the sea, we reflected on the tastes of the day.

And Then There Were Sardines

Our third and final stay was in the charming fishing town of Fuseta. Renowned for its rich history of seasonal fishermen, often found in their distinctive brown wooden huts close to the quay. Each morning, we watched them sipping espressos whilst mending their pots and nets.

With days spent shell hunting on Praia da Fuseta or taking the ferry from Olhão to the idyllic Ilha da Armona, we couldn’t wait to seek out where the locals ate.

On a nondescript backstreet, away from the restaurants with their chalkboards advertising ‘menu do dia’, we found what we were looking for, Ponte Grande – O Barretão.

Expecting our final experience of the ubiquitous Frango Assado, our excitement was suddenly quashed when we were told ‘Não há mais frango’ (no more chicken.)

As lovers of all things BBQ, we were very happy with the recommendation of freshly grilled sardines. The stainless-steel platter arrived generously covered with no less than 20 gleaming silver beauties, coated in garlic, vinegar, olive oil, salt and lemon juice. Their tender pale flesh was cooked to perfection.

Packed with locals, this bustling hive of activity was incredible value for money in comparison to the mainstream restaurants a few streets away. All it took to find it was a little research and our pilgrimage to these hidden Churrasqueiras was complete. At least until next time.

The Origins Of A Legend

The history of Frango Assado is long disputed. Some say that the ‘retornados’, people who had settled in overseas Portuguese colonies, brought with them the piri piri chili and traditions of BBQ from exotic locations such as Mozambique and Angola when they returned to the motherland in the 1970s.

Others believe its spicy origins start much earlier, with spices brought to the Algarve via Africa from the Americas in the 15th century.

No matter its true origins, one thing is certain: when you visit the Algarve, you will never be far from this neighborhood staple.

To find the very best, both in taste and value, walk in the opposite direction from the tourists heading for the main praças and beachfront restaurants. Head inland, head to industrial estates, look for the slightly worn canopies and the darkened interiors and you will be rewarded. And when you take a bite of that first crisp morsel, you will find yourself in food heaven.

If You Go

We found that Booking.com had a good selection of good-value boutique accommodation in Ferragudo, Monchique and Fuseta. Try and look for those with between 4 and 15 rooms; we always like those with a pool.

When hunting out the best local restaurants, we found that Google Maps provides the best local information, as most of the small Churrasqueiras do not have websites. Look for restaurants pinned, then click to see photos of the establishments.

Bear in mind that in most places you may not even find a menu in English. Use Google Translate or quite simply ask for ‘Frango Assado.’

Hire a car. You will need one to get around, especially to visit places like Monchique and the Devil’s Gorge (Passadiços do Barranco do Demo). There are also many other incredible hiking trails in the Serra de Monchique.

Need a hand planning your trip? Here are the sites and services we rely on most, from booking tools to travel products we love.

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Author Bio: Hayley Clark is an avid traveller who has had the privilege of visiting 58 countries, including 13 unforgettable countries in Africa. She works in the UK charity sector and spends her spare time writing fiction, woodcarving, and painting. Hayley has a passion for wildlife, travel with friends and family, and authentic experiences away from the tourist trail.

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