Where to Hang Your Hat
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Where to Hang
Your Hat
Cheap Stays in Italy in Unconventional “Inns”
By Patricia Gilbert
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The author with her
daughter, Laurien,
in the convent gardens. |
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With the Euro strong
against the dollar, finding a clean, safe place to stay that doesn't require you
to take out a second mortgage is getting more challenging, especially if you
want to stay in the center of a major city. Fortunately, travelers have
thousands of such rooms to choose from if they look beyond traditional hotels and consider staying in a convent or monastery.
Convents and monasteries
abound in Italy. In modern times, the budgets required to maintain such large
establishments are inversely proportionate to the number of men and women
choosing to enter holy orders. Enterprising monks and nuns have turned this
problem into a solution that benefits both the religious community and the
budget-minded tourist. Many convents and monasteries are opening their doors to
paying guests - and the price is right.
Dozens of convents and
monasteries throughout Italy are listed in
Bed and Blessings: Italy, a paperback written by the mother and
daughter team of June and Anne Walsh, published by Paulist Press (US$ 16.95). The properties
are listed by region to ease planning your next vacation in Italy.
Each property is briefly
described, and the contact information and times of operation are listed. Many operate
only during part of the year, generally Easter through the late fall. Some have
curfews. Only rarely do they accept credit cards. English is not always spoken
(although Latin probably is).
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A colorful
bougainvillea in the convent garden
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But what bargains they
offer in exchange for these minor inconveniences! I stayed at the Villa Maria
Elizabeth on Lake Garda, a playground for the rich and famous.
Expansive grounds in a
park-like setting were lavishly planted with flowers. The room was simple, but
clean, and the bed was comfortable. A blissful calm pervaded the entire site.
The price included a
hearty breakfast and dinner in the dining room where I was served by smiling
nuns. What was the price for this slice of heaven on earth? A mere 40 Euros
each night - and this is one of the more expensive properties featured in
Bed and Blessings, due to its prime
resort location.
Booking ahead is strongly
recommended, but easier said than done. I wrote to four convents and monasteries
using the Italian phrases in the back of the book. Only one responded
--
in Italian, of course. I did find a minor error in the book, too. The street
number of the convent was muddled.
When I arrived at the
listed address, there was no sign of life. I repeatedly pressed the buzzer at
the gate. When it finally crackled to life, the "nun" at the other end snarled,
"What the h--- do you want?" This was my first clue that I wasn't at the
convent after all. Well, at least she spoke English.
When I got to the real
Villa Maria Elizabeth, check in was efficiently processed by a nun behind a
counter with all the same amenities as any hotel. The Villa's other guests were
either German tourists or retired Italians who live there year round. I wanted
to retire on the spot so I could just stay until the end of my days.
Other than a blessing said
before meals and the prevalence of crucifixes and other religious symbols, there
was no overt religious aspect to staying at the Villa. The hospitality of these
houses is open to Catholics and non-Catholics equally. Please contact the
property you’re interested in to confirm
whether children and special needs can be accommodated.
The financial value of staying at the Villa was surpassed only by the peace and
beauty it offered. Staying anywhere else would be a sin.
If You Go
Italian Tourism
