Although I’ve always appreciated a good hike, I’m not particularly fond of dangling off sheer mountain cliffs on a rickety ladder fit for a mountain goat.
“Don’t look down, Mom. You’ve got this,” my daughter Emily coaxes calmly, trying to guide me along what feels like a man-made obstacle course. But from her nervous glance, I can tell she’s second-guessing this route—and possibly my ability to navigate it.
Photo by Emily Dicken
“Just grab the metal rung with your left hand, reach for the cable with your right, and inch your feet forward.”
Is she kidding me?! Despite the fact that these steel loops and cables are bolted into the granite wall with apparent permanence, I feel like a tightrope walker well past her prime.
I shift the weight of my 20-pound backpack, take a deep breath, whisper a quick prayer, and do exactly as I’m told—palms sweaty and heart racing.
Into the Wild—Together
There’s nothing quite like mother-daughter bonding time, especially when it means escaping work, schedules and family demands for some alpine solitude.
Our overnight plan: a stay at Whistler’s Kees and Claire Hut, a backcountry sanctuary perched near Russet Lake in Garibaldi Provincial Park.
This four-season hut, a tribute to two mountaineers who lost their lives in 2007, is more than just a shelter—it’s a monument to the spirit of adventure.
Their photos, along with others who’ve passed in the pursuit of alpine glory, adorn the walls of this welcoming space. I just hope mine doesn’t end up there for choosing today’s alternate route.
Last year, we had taken the Singing Pass trail from Whistler Village—14 kilometers of scenic, steady ascent through the Fitzsimmons Creek valley.
The reward was worth every step: panoramic alpine vistas between Blackcomb and Whistler peaks, followed by a cozy night at the hut. There had been some rugged sections, a few creek crossings and the occasional bridge, but nothing like what we’re tackling this time.
Tours and Tickets to Experience Garibaldi Provincial Park
A Shortcut With a Twist
This year, we decided to “cheat” a little. A series of lifts had whisked us high into the alpine with minimal effort: first the gondola from Whistler Village, then the record-breaking Peak 2 Peak ride over Fitzsimmons Creek, and finally the Peak Express chairlift to Whistler Summit. In less than an hour, we had gained more than 2,000 meters—and barely scuffed our boots.
“Easy-peasy, eh Mom?” Emily had grinned as we stepped off the lift and crossed the Cloudraker Skybridge, a 130-meter suspension span that dangles high above Whistler Bowl.
Soon after venturing off on the hiking trail, she was eating her words.
“So sorry, Mom,” she says sheepishly, shortly after I survive my harrowing ladder ordeal. We were supposed to bypass the more technical Half Note trail and stick to the easier High Note route. But at least the weather’s holding…”
That is until it didn’t.
Mountain Weather, Mother Wisdom
Thirty minutes later, after capturing a postcard-perfect photo of glacier-fed Cheakamus Lake framed by the iconic Black Tusk, the weather flips.
The once-bright skies give way to a fast-moving curtain of fog and drizzle. Birds silence. Marmots vanish. Trails turn slick under our boots. But we’ve come prepared.
On goes our raingear, out come our hiking poles and forward move our hiking boots. We’re determined to get to this overnight destination and a little precipitation isn’t going to dampen our spirits.
“This is the deciding point, Mom,” Emily declares. “We have to make a game plan. Do we hike back to the gondola and head down the way we came or do we continue onward for another three hours? There’s a lot of uphill and it may keep raining.”
With all of my daughter’s mountaineering experience, I know she has wise hiking sense and, first and foremost, I know she has my back. But I also know that ‘the apple doesn’t fall too far from the tree’ and we’re both very determined women.
The vote is unanimous. Onward we trek.
Rhythm and Reflection
The only thing that separates us from our heavenly hut is a few steep switchbacks and the two musical bumps, Flute and Oboe. We’ve already conquered Piccolo. How hard can it be to hoof over two more hills that are named after delightful instruments?
Pellet-size rain droplets bounce off the hood of my jacket, and I breathe in the fresh, earthy scent that oozes from the surrounding damp soil, decaying leaves, and local vegetation.
In spite of the downpour and steep ascent, we fall into an easy rhythm and chat endlessly along the way; work challenges, kid issues, future dreams, even philosophical topics like life values, finances and health.
I realize that in all of life’s recent busyness, we haven’t had time for many deep discussions and I’m so grateful to have this time now to bond with my girl. I’m also so proud that she has grown into such a loving and caring woman, parent, wife and businessperson.
And oddly, even though we are surrounded by immense space and total wilderness, I feel closer and more connected to her than I have in a long time.
Our ongoing gabbing continues and when we eventually crest Cowboy Ridge, the Kees and Claire Hut comes into view—our alpine refuge.
Tea, Tired Legs and a Toast
Inside, mugs of hot tea warm our hands and the alpenglow from the setting sun casts a coral hue over the neighboring Fissile and Whirlwind Peaks. It’s truly a magical setting and sharing this with my daughter is the best gift of all.
“You really rock, Mom,” Emily says with a grin, raising her mug in a toast. “Same time next year?”
I smile and lift my cup in return. “Maybe we should try a different mode of transport next year? A heli tour will whisk us up here in a jiffy and we can leave our hiking boots behind!”
How to Hike (or Fly) to the Kees and Claire Hut
Location:
Garibaldi Provincial Park, near Whistler, British Columbia, Canada.
Perched above Russet Lake at 2,000 meters, the Kees and Claire Hut is part of the Spearhead Huts project and operated by the Alpine Club of Canada.
Getting There: Choose Your Adventure
Option 1: Traditional Hike via Singing Pass
- Distance: 14 km (one way)
- Elevation Gain: 1,280 meters
- Trailhead: Behind the Day Lodge in Whistler Village
- Time: 5–7 hours
- Experience Level: Moderate to advanced
- Highlights: Fitzsimmons Creek Valley, alpine wildflowers, ridge-top views
Option 2: Lift-Access + Alpine Traverse
- Start: Gondola to the Roundhouse, then Peak 2 Peak to Blackcomb
- Final Lift: Peak Express Chair to the summit
- Trail Options:
- High Note Trail (easier): scenic and less exposed
- Half Note Trail (shorter, more technical): includes cables and steeper sections
- Time: ~4–5 hours to the hut
- Note: Check lift schedules and weather before departure
Option 3: Heli Drop-Off
- Available from Whistler-based heli-tour operators
- Perks: No sweat, all views. Perfect for those with limited time or mobility.
- Note: Still requires short hikes to and from the landing area. Booking in advance is essential.
Stay Info & Booking:
Kees and Claire Hut: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca
Operated by: Alpine Club of Canada
Reservation required year-round
Capacity: Sleeps up to 40 guests
Facilities: Kitchen, solar power, composting toilets, breathtaking views
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Author Bio: Since 1996, while freelancing, Jane Cassie has had thousands of articles published. Her stories have appeared CNN Magazine, Northwest Travel, New York Daily News, Chicken Soup For The Soul, Dreamscapes, Air Canada In-flight, Cottage Life, Epicure and Travel, just to name a few. She has been a regular contributor to Spa Life, INNspire, North American Inns Magazine, Cottage, and Inspire Magazines.
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