I hadn’t heard of Oulu until I was invited to attend the remarkable celebratory inauguration of its official designation as one of the two 2026 European Capitals of Culture. Oulu, along with 39 municipalities surrounding it, is Finland’s fifth-largest city, with some 217,000 residents. This enchanting, quirky, beyond beautiful city and surrounding area in northern Finland is now one of my go-tos.
Oulu (pronounced OH-loo) is about an hour-long flight north of Helsinki. It is considered a gateway to the Arctic region known as Lapland, home to the indigenous Sami people. Situated in the midst of the incredibly lush, dense forests of the boreal north, Oulu is the ideal location for highlighting the changing climate and ecosystem of the polar north. Scientists report that the region is undergoing climate change four times faster than the rest of the planet.
Midnight Sun And Winter
Lapland summers are delightfully sunlit all day and night. Known as the “Land of the Midnight Sun,” many Finns use blackout curtains to sleep. However, I decided to leave my hotel windows uncovered so that I could witness the “daylight” at all hours if I awoke. It was incredible to look out at 3 a.m. and see “daylight.”
In wintertime, naturally, the opposite occurs (no sun at all!), which, admittedly, sounds a bit dismal. Yet Finns assured me that with the ever-present snow on the ground, the reflecting light allows children to walk to school and folks are out and about. The wintertime reward is the fabulous, almost-nightly display of the Aurora Borealis, the surreal “Northern Lights.”
Happiest, Or Most Content?
Often overlooked by tourists headed to Sweden and Norway, Finland remains an anomaly in the world. It is delightfully devoid of crowds, traffic, and seemingly, unhappiness. I found that many Finns would clarify the often-stated statistic that Finland is the “happiest country” in the world, changing that term to the “most content country in the world.”
I certainly felt untroubled and relaxed during my visit—yet strangely fascinated by so much that I had not seen, heard, tasted, or experienced before. (I’m still thinking about the omnipresent and delectable blueberry juice! Not so much about the almost raw reindeer steak I sampled, just to be polite.)
Delightfully Different
Finland is not only a land of geographical contrasts, but even more so, of cultural ones. While it appeared to me that no Finn would dream of jaywalking or crossing an intersection without the little flashing man symbol, counter-culture heavy metal bands abound, more than anywhere else in the world. (Side note: As a rebellious American, I did cross streets when there was no car in sight, while the Finns around me waited patiently.)
Finns drink more milk than anywhere else on Earth, and also drink the most coffee! No wonder, since coffee with milk goes so mukava (nicely) with the delectable cardamom-spiced “korvapuusti” (cinnamon rolls) served everywhere.
A City Built on Tar
In the 19th century, the tar produced in Finland and then shipped out of Oulu to the rest of the world was used to waterproof ships by sealing their wood parts. Oulu became a bustling maritime center. Edible tar, which comes from sap extracted from burning pine trees, is often used as a flavoring for candies, gum, alcoholic spirits, meat marinades, and even ice cream.
Walkable, Peaceful, and Welcoming
Today, Oulu’s city center is peaceful, quiet, uncrowded, and blissfully walkable. The public transport buses are electric—thus no fumes or loud engines—and the routes are simple to navigate, with information in English (osl.fi/en). There are several quality museums, a bustling indoor mall with a hefty array of shops, including a supermarket and a shop selling products of Marimekko, the renowned Finnish designer of housewares and clothing.
Parks and Pikisaari Island
During my recent visit, I found parks rivaling Central Park in their beauty and creative planning, replete with rushing streams, wildflowers, and towering trees. I never heard a police siren in my week there, nor did I see any down-and-out folks begging or sleeping on the streets. I walked over a pedestrian bridge to the historic Pikisaari Island Old Town and strolled, unafraid, at 11 p.m.
I returned during the daytime hours to visit the worthwhile Sailor’s Home Museum, with exhibits showing the lifestyle of yesteryear in Oulu.
Folks in Oulu are seemingly private, as it was uncommon to establish eye contact with them. Yet, when I asked directions from strangers, they opened up and were extremely helpful and friendly. Almost everyone speaks English very well.
The Historic Market Plaza
The waterfront historic market plaza is a gem, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Wares include Finnish food items, coffees, antiques, and other items, such as souvenirs. It is clean and easy to move through in less than an hour. But stay and enjoy a hot cup of coffee and people-watch, as the locals do. The area around the market is replete with well-maintained historic buildings. From this spot, it is an easy walk over the bridge to Pikisaari Island.
Oulu 2026 Highlights
Oulu’s line-up of 2026 events for its “European Capital of Culture” designation includes fascinating indigenous Sámi art exhibitions, an environment-focused public art installation trail called Climate Clock, an Arctic Food Lab highlighting Nordic produce, and special events such as August’s long-table Summer Night’s Dinner, and many musical presentations. The flagship Climate Clock project is a permanent installation of six creations made by Finnish and international artists, spread across the Oulu region. Its focus is to engage viewers to think of the environmental “clock” and how it is ticking away at a frantic and frightening pace, in contrast to our generic idea of time.
Quirky Oulu Oddities
Oulu is the birthplace and home of the internationally known “Screaming Men’s Choir,” a choir like no other, because this “choir” does not sing. Rather, the group of 30 or so men shout, scream, and bellow out “songs” in perfect unison and harmony. This Finnish “rapping” was not my personal cup of tea, but the group has been invited to perform around the world as ambassadors of Finnish art.
A remarkable musical Oulu fact is not really about music per se; rather, it is about a fantasy musical instrument. The Air Guitar World Championships is an international performing arts competition founded in 1996, held each August in Oulu. The event, which draws competitors from all over the globe, showcases their rather dubious skill in playing “invisible guitars,” with the motto of “Make Air, Not War,” promoting world peace through the ideology that “wars will end, and all bad things will vanish when all the people in the world play the air guitar.” Ah, if only! The world champion receives a custom-made electric guitar, known as the “Flying Finn.”
Tech Innovation In Oulu
Oulu is actually quite renowned for its booming tech scene, and is compared to Silicon Valley. 6G technology was born in Oulu. Nokia, based in Finland and with an enormous hub in Oulu, was the first handset manufacturer to make phones that could write and send text messages (beginning in 1994).
Sauna Culture
Saunas originated in Finland, some 10,000 years ago. Rather astonishingly, nowadays almost every residence includes a sauna, while multiple-unit buildings have common area saunas, some with specified hours to reduce crowding. Long a cultural tradition, sauna bathing is gaining attention for its potential to ease pain, help with mood, and improve heart health.
Sauna culture in Finland is such an integral part of Finnish life that in 2020, UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added it to its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity listing. Notably, in a population of 5.5 million people, there are reportedly 3.3 million saunas.
In Oulu, floating saunas are beloved, and a visit to one is a must. From the shoreline, a flower-bedecked wooden raft took me a short distance onto the Oulujoki River to the Kolvuranna Saunalautta. After visiting the changing room, I entered the large sauna and sat on a soft mat over wooden benches with a quiet group of locals. After about 20 minutes, I emerged to the fresh air and watched as others jumped into the river to cool off. Back home, I regret that I didn’t join them!
There are several other floating saunas, such as the Mallassauna, on the Pikisaari arts district. At that site, created by the Hailuodon Brewery, bathers enjoy the soft sand outside the hand-made saunas.
Read More: Finland’s Happy and Healthy Sauna Obsession
If You Go
When to go: Oulu has very distinct seasons. In summer, it becomes the “land of the midnight sun,” and temperatures are temperate, with highs in the 70s F and lows in the 50s F. Winter brings cold, snow, and darkness as well as almost-nightly Northern Lights sky shows and infinite cozy cafes to enjoy those cinnamon rolls and coffee.
How to get there: Oulu is about 160 kilometers (100 miles) south of the Arctic Circle and about an hour flight from Helsinki. Finnair flies direct to Helsinki from the following U.S. cities: New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Dallas, Seattle, and Miami.
Where to Stay: Lapland Hotels is perfectly situated next to the delightful Hupisaarten city park and adjacent to the 200+-year-old Ylikiiminki Church. City Hall, the market, and city center are all just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. If you stay, a sumptuous Finnish breakfast buffet is included—don’t miss the unique offerings, such as tiny reindeer sausage pies, cloudberries, and the most delicious, creamy oatmeal I’ve ever had.
What to bring: Layers, rain gear, swimsuits, and sandals for the sauna! Mosquito repellent, sunscreen, and sunglasses for the summer. Snow boots and winter gear for the winter. Cycling is extremely common and popular in Oulu (#1 in the country), so if you plan to rent a bike, bring whatever accessories you need for that. To simplify, consider one-bag travel for these shifting Nordic seasons.
Tourist Office and Oulu Shop: Market Hall, Market Square | Oulu Tourism Website
What not to miss: The sauna culture. Cinnamon rolls with strong coffee. Saying Hei (hello), Moi Moi (goodbye), and/or Kiitos (thank you) to a Finn! Sure, they pretty much all speak English, but they dearly appreciate the effort.
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Author Bio: Irene Middleman Thomas lives in Denver. Her passion is traveling the world and meeting new people and places. After visiting 48 countries and all but six U.S. states, she is proud to be unjaded and enthusiastic. There is no place unworthy of exploration in her opinion!. www.irenethomas.com.
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