Frankfurt… When you hear that word, you think of that splendid, vibrant German city, Frankfurt am Main.
There is, however, another Frankfurt, Frankfurt an der Oder. It is a small, unusual border city, visited by few Germans and even fewer foreign tourists. If you seek a unique day trip from Berlin, consider a visit to this other Frankfurt.
Location and History
Frankfurt an der Oder, also called Frankfurt (Oder), is 50 miles (80 kilometers) east of Berlin. It can be reached via a ninety-minute drive or a one-hour train ride. The city sits on the west bank of the Oder River, a narrow, shallow river separating Germany from Poland.
First described in the 13th Century as a Slavic settlement, Frankfurt an der Oder later became part of Poland, then Brandenburg, Bohemia, Prussia, Germany, Poland again after World War II, then the German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1949.
Its population of 80,000 fell significantly after German reunification, and is currently at about 58,000. This was largely due to factory closures.
Architecture and Culture
Heavily damaged in World War II, the city was rebuilt in the stark, Communist East German style. While the architecture is plain, it is interesting as a vestige of life in the GDR before reunification.
Also, because Frankfurt an der Oder is so deep within the former GDR, English is not widely spoken. This gives one a chance to practice speaking German.
Points of Interest
Points of interest include monuments to Nicolaus Copernicus, to the poet Heinrich von Kleist, and to the Red Army.
The city offers two small but attractive parks: the Lienau Park and the Lennepark. However, the most interesting site is the Marienkirche. It is located near the town hall, and a few cafes and restaurants are nearby.
The Marienkirche is one of the most beautiful and unique churches in Germany. Completed in 1253 and expanded in 1522, it is still under reconstruction. Measuring 77 meters in length by 25 meters in width, it is one of the largest Gothic churches in the country.
What makes it unique, however, is its three panels of stained glass windows, dating from 1370. These depict Old Testament scenes, scenes from the life of Christ, and scenes from the life of the Antichrist. These are the only known stained glass depictions of the Antichrist.
The Stained Glass Panels
Interestingly, these stained glass panels were removed from the church for protection in 1941 and were stored in Potsdam. Seized by the Red Army in 1946, they were transferred and stored in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, and only returned to Germany for reinstallation in 2002.
Excursion to Slubice, Poland
After checking out the points of interest in Frankfurt, cross the short bridge over the Oder into its sister city of Slubice, Poland. The open borders policy allows unrestricted entry by car or on foot.
Exploring Slubice
Slubice is smaller than Frankfurt an der Oder, with 17,000 inhabitants. The two cities share cultural and economic ties, including a water treatment plant and the jointly administered Viadrina European University.
The two cities contrast with each other, truly the junction of east and west Europe, and, as former Viadrina president Gesine Schwan describes it, “Where Europe begins”.
One can walk through Slubice in a few minutes. There are only a few items of interest, these being a small but attractive nature preserve and a tiny monument to Wikipedia.
The main attraction of Slubice is its shopping. Many Germans cross the bridge to buy discounted products of all kinds, especially cigarettes, but also food items, cosmetics and chocolate.
The town also features numerous restaurants and kebab stands. Crossing into Slubice allows one to experience a small bit of Poland and maybe get some good buys.
Journey to Osno Lubuskie
If one has more time and wishes to see more of western Poland, drive 29 kilometers east to the town of Osno Lubuskie. This drive through the beautiful Polish forest brings you to this town of 3,900 people, which dates back to the 10th Century.
Park in front of the small but ornate town hall, and walk along the defensive city wall built in 1477. Next to the town hall is the stately Church of St. Jacob, built in the 14th Century. It has not been heavily renovated and has an ancient appearance and feel.
If your German travels provide enough time, and if you want to experience something different, consider a visit to the “other Frankfurt” and its Polish neighbors.
If You Go
Getting There
Frankfurt an der Oder sits about 50 miles east of Berlin, an easy ninety minute drive or a direct one hour train ride from Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof.
Where to Stay
Most visitors treat this as a Berlin day trip, but a couple of solid options exist for anyone who wants to linger:
- Hotel Polonia – Frankfurt-Oder, a straightforward three-star hotel a short walk from the train station, popular with travelers passing through on road trips.
- B&B HOTEL Frankfurt-Oder, a reliable budget chain option near Der Anger park.
Crossing into Poland
The open border between Frankfurt and Slubice means no checkpoint, but bring a passport for identification. Poland uses the zloty, not the euro, so plan to exchange currency or use a card with no foreign transaction fees before crossing.
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Author Bio: Dr. Richard Wilson is a Florida physician whose passions are writing and travel. He has written two books, many scientific publications, and numerous magazine articles in different genres. He loves to travel to lesser-known destinations that are infrequently visited by tourists.
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