I’m peacefully snorkeling at Poipu Beach, exploring the calm, shallow bay teeming with lively, colorful marine life.
A bold black-and-yellow striped Moorish idol searches for tiny bites of food. A vibrantly colored green, orange and blue fish (I later learn is a Christmas wrasse) flits past me. A large school of translucent white fish dance by in unison. Underwater treasures everywhere.
As I continue drifting and exploring, I suddenly stop. A large Hawaiian sea turtle is about three feet in front of me, bobbing gracefully, heading out to sea. I keep my distance, not wanting to disturb his journey. I carefully take a few underwater pictures and watch, mesmerized, as he slowly swims away.
My sea turtle encounter was one of the many amazing experiences I had with my husband, Bob, during our eleven-day stay in Kauai, Hawaii’s fourth-largest island. Also known as the “Garden Isle,” Kauai is Hawaii’s oldest island and features a wide variety of travel and adventure experiences, including amazing beaches, relaxing resorts, boat tours, ziplining, kayaking, stunning hiking trails, dramatic landscapes, cultural activities and more.
We left frigid Madison, Wisconsin (the temperature in the car on the way to the Milwaukee airport read minus one degree Fahrenheit) for a winter escape. We were blessed with beautiful weather, amazing offshore snorkeling, once-in-a-lifetime hiking, and gorgeous scenery.
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Stay on the East Side
We hadn’t been to Kauai for over thirty years. The right opportunity arrived when Southwest had a winter flight sale. We combined points and dollars to nab a bargain from Milwaukee to Lihue, Kauai (9,000 points and $281.60 for two people). After careful research, we found that the east side of the island offered the best hotel rates.
We found a good deal and booked a four-night stay at the Hilton Garden Inn Kauai Wailua Bay, about ten minutes from Lihue Airport. We skipped a rental car for those days to save money.
The hotel was within walking distance to restaurants and steps from Lydgate Park, which features a protected, lava-rock enclosed saltwater pool, perfect for calm offshore snorkeling.
We slipped on our snorkel gear, waded out into the water, and saw a surprising amount of reef fish, including yellow tang, parrotfish and schools of large silvery, white-bellied fish called bigeye scad. The next four days were sublime. Lay by the hotel pool and thaw out our winter bodies, snorkel, eat good food, repeat.
Less than a mile from the hotel were several restaurants, including Passion Bakery Café, a great place for breakfast and lunch frequented by locals. We also discovered our hotel’s happy hour, with reasonably priced drinks and so much food we easily had another meal’s worth of leftovers.
During our stay, we signed up for a complimentary ukulele lesson, taught by a popular local resident, Kalani Joe. He was very entertaining and an excellent teacher who had our group playing simple chords and tunes within minutes. Kalani Joe’s gentle and humble manner embodied the aloha spirit of Kauai—a warm, caring extension of affection and interconnectedness.
Napali Coast Hiking
After four days of relaxation and snorkeling near our hotel, we were ready to pick up our rental car for the remainder of our trip. We took the Kauai Bus, the local island-wide transportation option, to the airport to pick up our rental car for the next seven days. The bus was inexpensive, easy to use, clean, and comfortable.
For the next three nights, we tried something unique to lower our average lodging cost by camping at Kumu Camp, a private campsite on Anahola Bay. We stayed in a Tentalow, a 100-square-foot canvas tent with a queen mattress and private balcony. We packed a top sheet and lightweight sleeping bag and that was all we needed to stay warm.
The campground was clean and had hot showers, direct beach access, and free coffee each morning. We were able to mingle with fellow campers and hang out in a unique, rustic place steps from the beach.
We signed up to go on a four-mile round-trip hike on the Kalalau Trail, a strenuous, breathtaking hike through steep, narrow cliffs and lush landscapes that hug the famous Napali Coast.
In order to hike, you need to make a reservation one month in advance for parking and for the entrance fee to Ha’ena State Park, where the trail is located. We fortunately secured both. You can also access the park by shuttle service, which also requires advance reservations.
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Crossing Hanakapiai Stream
It rained the night before (thankfully, the Tentalow stayed dry), so we were worried the trail might be closed. However, we were told by park staff that the trail was open, though the rocks and trail would be slippery.
Undaunted, we layered up, laced up our waterproof hiking boots and prepared for the hike. Perhaps the best thing we did all day was pick up thick wooden hiking poles left in a pile near the entrance of the hike. They provided extra stability both up and downhill.
The hike was incredible. The famous Kalalau Trail is the only land access on the Napali Coast. The trail crosses steep, muddy terrain, narrow valleys and dramatic sea cliffs. Within five minutes of hiking, we descended upon precipitous, narrow, rocky pathways interspersed with muddy trail paths. As we climbed, we were immersed in dramatic coastal scenery—jagged mountain ridges, emerald cliffs, lush vegetation, extraordinary sea views.
Hanakapiai Beach
At the end of the two-mile hike, we reached a rock-filled creek flowing into the Pacific. I needed persuasion and hand-holding (literally) from Bob to cross, but he assured me it would be worth it. While it took some maneuvering through slippery rocks, we made it to the other side to the beautiful Hanakapiai Beach. We blissfully ate our lunch on large rocks overlooking the beach, enamored by the surrounding beauty.
We safely made our way back to the start of the trail, which was a tricky descent at times, bid aloha to our coveted walking sticks and were ready for a big lunch.
Exploring the North Shore
We headed to Hanalei, a charming, small town on the North Shore not too far from Ha’ena State Park. We treated ourselves to fish and chips at the Terrace Restaurant, which is centrally located in the quaint downtown area, overlooking picturesque lush green mountains. Hanalei is a great place to explore, as there are many restaurants, food trucks, shops and nearby beaches.
Waimea Canyon Views
The next day, we visited Waimea Canyon State Park, an incredibly scenic area which features Waimea Canyon, appropriately nicknamed The Grand Canyon of the Pacific. We drove up the winding road early in the morning to reach the main canyon lookout.
Waimea Canyon stretches over 14 miles long, one mile wide and over 3,600 feet deep. The panoramic views from the main lookout were spectacular—dramatic brown- and red-hued cliffs, deep valley gorges, lush green vegetation, crested buttes, and waterfalls cascading from the rocks. There are many scenic lookouts, trails, and hikes of varying degrees of difficulty. At one of the lookouts, we spotted feral goats on a steep cliff.
We then drove to the adjacent Koke’e State Park, which features multiple lookouts of stunning views of the Napali Coast. For lunch, we stopped at the Koke’e Lodge, a cozy, cabin-style restaurant that is part of the park system. The food was carefully prepared with local farm-to-table cuisine and the service was excellent.
We headed west to drive as far as we could to the end of the Kuhio Highway, the main highway that connects the island. The ocean scenery adjacent to the highway was gorgeous. On our way back, we stopped at JoJo’s Shave Ice for some Hawaiian-style shave ice, a fluffy, smooth, creamy ice-based dessert popular on the island. I had tropical sweet syrup mixed into mine, and it was delicious.
Relaxation in Kapa’a
We spent our final three nights at the Kauai Coast Resort at the Beach Boy. The resort is in a prime east-side location in Kapa’a, steps from the ocean and adjacent to the Coconut Marketplace, an open-air shopping village with many restaurants, a mini-market and eclectic shops.
Our room included a microwave, fridge, toaster, a set of dishes and a small patio with ocean views. The resort also featured immaculate and lush gardens, a large swimming pool with a swim-up bar, hot tub and an on-site restaurant.
If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii, check out our Hawaii Travel Guide, where you’ll find a curated selection of articles to inspire you and help plan your trip.
Poipu Beach Snorkeling
We spent a wonderful day at Poipu Beach, a premier spot for offshore snorkeling in the winter. Separate areas on the beach are sectioned off where sea turtles and monk seals bask in the sun. I experienced my amazing underwater sea turtle encounter as well as another surprising close-up sighting of a monk seal making his way to shore. Each time we set out to snorkel, the calm, shallow cove, created by a tombolo (natural sandbar), was teeming with tropical fish of all shapes and sizes.
Our final days were spent exploring beaches around the island, grilling out at our resort, eating at nearby restaurants, and lounging by the pool. The warmth, beauty and aloha spirit surrounded us. We will not wait another thirty years to return.
If You Go
Getting There:
Getting Around: A rental car is worth it for the second half of the trip, when reaching the North Shore and Waimea Canyon requires covering serious ground. Book a rental car through Discover Cars to compare rates across the island’s agencies before landing. For the first few days based near Lihue, the Kauai Bus is a cheap, easy way to get around without a car.
Where to Stay:
- The Hilton Garden Inn Kauai Wailua Bay sits ten minutes from Lihue Airport and steps from Lydgate Park’s protected snorkeling lagoon, making it an easy, walkable base for the first stretch of the trip.
- For something different, Kumu Camp on Anahola Bay offers glamping-style Tentalows with private balconies, hot showers, and direct beach access, a good way to lower the average nightly cost without sacrificing comfort.
- The Kauai Coast Resort at the Beach Boy in Kapa’a rounds out the trip with a prime east side location next to the Coconut Marketplace, plus a full kitchen setup that makes grilling out and eating in easy.
Hiking the Napali Coast: The Kalalau Trail requires a reservation made at least one month ahead for both parking and entry to Ha’ena State Park, where the trailhead is located. A shuttle option is also available and requires its own advance booking. Reserve parking or shuttle access through Ha’ena State Park before locking in travel dates.
Tourist Information:
Travel Tips: The best time to visit Kauai is generally April, May, September, and October, when rainfall is lower, crowds thin out, and prices drop. That said, late January can still be a smart window if it’s booked strategically: shopping during Cyber Monday week (the Monday following Thanksgiving) often turns up discounts on flights, accommodations, and rental cars alike.
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Author Bio: Karla Freimuth is a retired third-grade teacher and freelance writer who lives in the Madison, Wisconsin area. She enjoys hiking, biking, Wisconsin sports teams, volunteering, writing, spending time with family and friends and traveling as much as possible.
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