The Fourth Holiest City in the Islamic World
If I were to ask, “What is the fourth holiest city in the Islamic World, behind Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem?”, few respondents would know the answer. Until I traveled throughout the 99% Muslim, North African country of Tunisia, I had no clue either. Two hours south of Tunis, we crossed into Kairouan, the ancient capital of Tunisia before Tunis.
Considered one of the most important places to visit in the entire Maghreb—encompassing Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mauritania, and the disputed Western Sahara Desert—Kairouan unfolded as a ‘must-see’ on any Tunisian itinerary.
The Sacred Significance of Kairouan
Ranking as the most sacred city in Tunisia, Kairouan has the distinction of being the fourth holiest city in the Islamic World. Settled in 670 A.D. as an Arab garrison, only fifty years after the death of the Prophet Mohammed, the Arabs established the first mosque in North Africa, and with it one of the oldest Muslim communities here, along with claims of the world’s oldest minaret. How could a place so special have evaded my radar and knowledge? I had never even heard of it before, but the magic of travel never stops expanding one’s universe.
Although we had the benefit of pre-arranged travel with a small group, louages, eight-passenger vans that leave from transportation hubs in every Tunisian city, provide cheap, reliable service. Buy a ticket with Tunisian dinars, find the correct van going to Kairouan, hop in, wait for the eight seats to fill up, and off you go.
The time to fill a van that goes to this popular destination usually takes less than ten minutes. From the louage depot in Kairouan, a 15-minute walk gets the traveler to Old Town and the main reason for coming: The Great Mosque.
The Great Mosque of Kairouan
Although partially rebuilt, the Great Mosque remains the oldest Muslim place of worship in Africa, and the large dome, held up by 414 pillars scavenged from the Roman and Byzantine structures at Carthage, exemplifies pre-Islamic influence. The huge inner courtyard, bordering the prayer chamber, requires reverent behavior, conservative dress, and headscarves for women.
As non-Muslims, we could not enter the interior space dedicated to prayer, but the open, arched entrances allowed onlookers to grasp the magnificence of the mosque’s sanctum and an unending display of beautifully handcrafted carpets covering the hall’s floor. I found the complete lack of any statues or paintings, reference to God or to the Prophet Mohammed a conspicuous omission when compared to Western religions’ places of worship, filled with spiritual icons.
An Alternative Pilgrimage
For Muslims who do not have the resources to make the required hajj to Mecca, Kairouan, considered one of the seven cities of Islam, offers an alternative for the faithful. Seven visits to the Great Mosque in Kairouan equate to one pilgrimage to Mecca.
If you’d like to explore Kairouan and other nearby highlights with a knowledgeable local guide, consider booking the Kairouan, El Jem, and Monastir Private Day Trip — an easy way to experience Tunisia’s historic and cultural gems in a single day.
The Abou-Zamaa al-Balawi Mausoleum
At another of the most venerated sites, we explored the main spiritual center and major complex of Holy Islamic learning. The Abou-Zamaa al-Balawi Mausoleum, dedicated to the resting place of the companion of the Prophet Mohammed, killed in the Battle of the Berbers, remains a sacred place for studying the Koran.
Arched doorways and walls lined with impressive mosaic tiles decorate the entire building, giving it a revered ambiance.
Read More: Tunisia: The Vibrant Mediterranean Canvas Beyond Morocco’s Shadow
The Vibrant Medina of Kairouan
Compared to Tunis’s population of two million, Kairouan numbers under 120,000 residents. Its UNESCO World Heritage Medina, vibrant and colorful, offers a far less hectic environment than the chaos of the Tunis market. I felt excitement building for an authentic, uncrowded meander through its winding alleyways, and familiar, white-washed buildings with indigo blue, Arab-style doors that are synonymous with Tunisian architecture.
Ubiquitous cats, never a dog, skulked through the passages of the Medina. Furry moms with their litter of kittens trailing behind to old scraggly toms, either fat from rat kills, or emaciated, popped out from every crevasse. They huddled in doorways to catch warmth from the raw December chill, hid in dark alleys, or silently wandered through the medina stalls, acting like sentinels for the marketplace.
Without mouthing a meow, they waited patiently for drippings from the seafood stands or, with padded paws, gingerly manipulated the piled-high fruit without causing the stir of even one orange. Residents take on the faithful chore of feeding these homeless, rapidly reproducing creatures, without accepting ownership. I found the feline presence quietly comforting.
The Culture and Crafts of Kairouan
The slow pace allowed for deeper exploration into this captivating culture. The aroma of freshly baked dough led us to a small bakery, where the owner proudly welcomed us inside to watch the workers bake mounds of delectable Tunisian bread, which I devoured at every meal.
Exquisite handmade carpets of wool and silk, hung from every wall, from wires above, draped over every vacant spot, spoke of Kairouan being the carpet-making capital of Tunisia. Knotted or woven carpets, patterns depicting Arabic designs and Muslim influences, reflected a long history, culture, and tradition.
We talked to vendors, who lamented that their once flourishing businesses that provided income to so many Kairouans now face the challenge of increased higher material costs, and the stiff competition from cheap Chinese imports. Although the primary carpet color bursts in rich reds, I favored the alousha throws, undyed wool in neutral shades, coming from the Tunisian word, al aloush, meaning sheep.
Observations at the Coffee Shops
Everywhere, in the medina, in the square, fronting major or side roads, Tunisian coffee shops abound with tables occupied with Muslim men, sipping their thick, black brew; never a woman did I see, except for me. My husband and I frequented a coffee house within minutes from our once opulent, now dated, Kasbah Hotel.
This blonde, American woman, sitting amongst the throngs of men caused curiosity, it seems, and the owner came over to chat and practice his English. I had watched the women, tirelessly working, caring for children, selling bread they made along the road from 55-gallon drums filled with coals, and hoeing meager vegetable plants in their tiny gardens. I asked this inquisitive gentleman, “What do these men do all day, who sit and sip and smoke in these coffee shops?”
He looked at me with a playful gleam in his eyes and said, “Ah, the men… they are doing the thinking!” And so it goes in Kairouan, the spiritual and carpet-making center, and the same scene plays on throughout this incredibly fascinating country, Tunisia.
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Author Bio: After a life-long profession of treating the mentally ill at a PA psychiatric hospital for 33 years, Carol retired to Lake Chapala, Mexico in 2006 with her husband, to pursue more positive passions. Her family thought that she too had ‘gone mad.’ Carol has taught English to Mexican adults and disadvantaged local children for the past 18 years. She writes for local, international, on-line and print publications. Using her adventures to over 120 countries, she has captured a niche in travel writing, and her stories have been featured in Go World Travel Magazine. A frequent contributor to El Ojo del Lago, the largest distribution English magazine in Mexico, she’s won several literary awards from that publication. Her psychiatric field work netted a contribution to the anthology, Tales from the Couch. Recently she has also been featured in two more anthologies, Insider’s Guide to the Best of Mexican Holidays, and Bravados, Life, Love and Living in Lake Chapala, Mexico, all available on amazon.com.
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