Nestled between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe, California, El Dorado County is often overlooked in favor of its flashier neighbours. But a weekend exploring this rolling stretch of the Sierra Foothills delivers a peaceful road-trip adventure with just a smidgen of Wild West.
This is a region where history runs deep—especially in Coloma, California, where you can literally stand where gold was first discovered in 1848 at the Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park. When James W. Marshall found gold in the waterwheel channel of the sawmill he was building for a pioneer named John Sutter, the course of history for California went through a drastic and long-lasting change. The population in the region exploded, San Francisco became a major city and California achieved statehood.
The 20 historic buildings at the park are easily worth a wander through for several hours, with exhibits showcasing the mining, schooling, blacksmithing and trade traditions of the time. Have lunch while you’re there.
History and Haunting in Placerville
A lively tour called Echoes of the Past brings Gold Rush lore to life in Placerville, California, originally named Hangtown due to the relative lawlessness of the early mining years. Led by Jack Devan of Moonlight Tours, it takes in much of Placerville’s Main Street, including stops for chilling tales at Placerville Public House, the Bell Tower and Historic Cary House Hotel. What looks like a rather unassuming small town is really a Wild West saga of fortune-hunters, pioneers, outlaws and ghosts, all illustrating the darker side of Gold Rush history. Jack even carries an electromagnetic field detector in his bag, which measures fluctuations in electromagnetic energy, a.k.a. a ghost meter.
Apple Hill Wineries
Far from stuck in the past, El Dorado is also home to Apple Hill. Once known mostly for fall’s apple pies, the region is seeing a new generation of winemakers emerging, blending family legacy with modern hospitality flair. More than 50 farms are spread across winding country roads. One of the original Apple Hill growers is Edio Vineyards at Delfino Farms, a family farm founded in 1964, where the third generation now focuses on a “farm-to-glass spirit” with unfussy, bold reds and unusual Mediterranean grapes. Time your visit and tasting to coincide with lunch so you can sit on the deck and enjoy the vineyard view.
Other fine examples of the Apple Hill wine scene include Gold Hill Vineyard, renowned for small-production wine within a rustic setting, and Myka Estates. We managed not only a great tasting experience at Myka, eavesdropping on all the wine-club members hanging out at lunchtime, but also by digging into a giant plate of duck nachos. Highly recommended.
Quirky Places To Stay
Extraordinary Camino Hotel is a step back in time, an eclectic historic gem built in 1888 in the heart of the Apple Hill region. Owner Raven Starr is simply someone you’d want to hang out with, delivering a small but comfortable retro-chic boutique-hotel experience. Richly decorated rooms are small but fascinating, each one like a unique work of art. Great for family or group buy-outs, the hotel has an enormous common room kitted out with a pool table and fireplace, complete with vintage memorabilia.
The romantic Eden Vale Inn is an upscale bed and breakfast built specifically with couples in mind, run by owners Karen and David Browning. Patios look out onto lovely grounds sporting winding paths, great views over pastureland, a peaceful little pond and many lush plants and trees. The breakfast is outstanding.
Getting There
El Dorado County is about 90 minutes west of the Sacramento International Airport on Highway 50. It’s super-easy to rent a car and drive over for a night or two, mapping out your road trip in advance, of course. Keep in mind that mountain routes are scenic but also slow, due more to the winding roads than to Sunday driving.
Best Time To Visit
Though the tourist board’s party line is “It’s here all year,” late September through October is the sweet spot for a visit to El Dorado County. The weather is warm, the vineyards are in the throes of harvest so Apple Hill is at its liveliest, and the summer crowds have gone. That said, the wildflowers are in bloom in April and May, also a good time for hiking and rafting. Visit during the week if you can in order to avoid weekend tailbacks on the highway.
Prime Eateries
Placerville Public House in Placerville is loaded with history, the former site of Main Street’s executions, carried out by vigilantes trying to keep the peace during a relatively lawless Gold Rush time.
Lotus Pub on Lotus Road in Lotus is perfect for craft beer, local wine and comfort food—much like a community living room—after a day of exploring historic mining country.
Hand-made pizza and pales of terrific wine await at Marco’s Café, a busy stop for take-out pizza and live music. Go ahead and let your hair down.
Helpful Insider Tips
Keep in mind that the temperatures in El Dorado County can change by as much as 35º F in a single day. Afternoon thundershowers can also develop quickly. Try to get your hiking done earlier in the day.
The best wineries are often the small ones, so don’t feel intimidated or like you’re interloping when you pull into a working farm for a tasting. The wineries in these parts close earlier than you might expect, often by 4 or 5 p.m.
Download offline maps before driving around any of the mountains, as mobile service can vanish without much warning.
Be sure to carry some cash for the roadside market stalls and the smaller orchards and wineries.
Watch for deer on Highway 50, particularly in the early morning and at dusk.
More El Dorado County info awaits at Visit-ElDorado.com. Get help with maps, itineraries, lodging and local attractions. Happy Gold Rush trails!
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Author Bio: Doug Wallace is a travel journalist, author, photographer and copywriter, principal of Wallace Media and editor-publisher of TravelRight.Today. A member of the Society of American Travel Writers, he can be found beside buffet tables, on massage tables and table-hopping around the world.
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