I’ll admit, I didn’t know much about Belize before arriving in this tiny nation. Central America? Caribbean? Both?
Turns out, it’s complicated—and that’s exactly what makes it interesting.
Belize sits on the eastern edge of Central America, squeezed between Mexico and Guatemala, but everything about it feels Caribbean.
The people speak English (the only Central American country where that’s true), the food tastes like island fare, and the laid-back vibe is pure beach culture.
I spent four days in Belize traveling with a few friends from jungle ruins to turquoise waters, and we discovered a country that weaves together Maya heritage, Caribbean culture, and Central American geography into something uniquely its own.
First Stop: Belize City
When you travel to Belize, your first stop is Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport, which is easily accessible with flights from many American cities. (See the If You Go section below for more details.) I flew United from Houston, a two-hour flight that felt shorter than many domestic trips.
From the airport, it was just a 15-minute drive to Grand Resort & Residences, a lovely new property that balances modern comfort with a convenient location. Situated right next to Haulover Bridge on the Philip Goldson Highway, it’s ideal for that first or last night in Belize when you want something reliable and comfortable without venturing too far from your flight.
The 75-room resort feels upscale without being stuffy. My room was spacious and spotless, with all the amenities you’d expect from a quality hotel—good air conditioning (essential in Belize’s heat), a comfortable bed, and an excellent on-site restaurant where I enjoyed dinner and breakfast.
Tuk Tuk Tour of Belize City
Many travelers skip Belize City, but my friends and I got a chance to explore it on a sunset tuk-tuk tour with Tuk Tuk Belize, one of those open-air three-wheeled vehicles that navigate the streets with ease.
We got a nice look at the city, and then stopped at the Museum of Belize, a small but excellent museum which provides a thoughtful overview of Belize’s history.
Dinner at Midpoint Bar & Grill introduced me to some of the country’s excellent seafood. One of my friends had a perfectly seasoned whole fried fish, which the restaurant is known for, and he seemed to enjoy every bite.
Maya Site: A Visit to Xunantunich
The next morning started early—6:30 breakfast to-go—because we had a two-hour drive west to the Cayo District, Belize’s largest region and home to some of the most impressive Maya archaeological sites in Central America.
The journey took us through small villages and increasingly dense tropical forest, past roadside fruit stands and Mennonite farms, until we reached the Mopan River.
Xunantunich is an ancient Maya city that sits atop a ridge above the Mopan River, about 70 miles west of Belize City. Getting there involves a hand-cranked ferry across the river, which moves about as fast as you’d expect a hand-cranked ferry to move
Climbing El Castillo
Walking through the jungle forest, you see El Castillo, the site’s main pyramid—the second-tallest structure in Belize at 130 feet—rising above the jungle canopy.
Our guide explained that the name Xunantunich means “Maiden of the Rock” in the Maya language.
The “Stone Woman,” he said, “refers to a legend about the ghost of a woman, claimed by several people to inhabit the site since 1892. She is dressed in white and stands before El Castillo.”
We all looked for the Stone Woman, but she didn’t make an appearance, so we decided to climb El Castillo. The climb up is steep. Like, truly steep. But standing on top, you can see the endless green forest, the Maya Mountains in the distance, and Guatemala just visible to the west.
I could imagine then just how massive this civilization was. Xunantunich served as a Maya civic ceremonial center from roughly 600-900 AD, when thousands lived in the Belize Valley. From that vantage point, it was easy to imagine the thriving culture that once filled this valley.
Lunch at a Local Favorite: Benny’s Kitchen
Lunch at Benny’s Kitchen in San Ignacio featured more Belizean classics. It wasn’t flashy or expensive, but it was a truly delicious meal. I tried stewed chicken, a national favorite. It was falling off the bone, served with rice, beans, and fried plantains.
Tiger Cave Zipline and Cave Tubing with Dark Knight tours
That afternoon, it was time for some adventure. We went cave tubing and zip-lining with Dark Knight Tours. The ancient caves on this unique private property hold special significance in Maya culture; some still contain ceremonial artifacts.
The zip-line course came first. I’ve ziplined many times before, but never quite like this. We started on several long lines through the thick jungle canopy. Then, on our last zipline, we ziplined straight into a deep cave. It was a thrilling experience.
Cave Tubing
Then came the cave tubing itself. After a quick hike, we each got an inner tube, a headlamp for our helmets, and a life jacket, and then slowly floated along the underground river.
Inside the caves, the only sounds were water dripping and our tubes bumping against limestone formations carved over millennia. The headlamps lit our way, sometimes catching bats in the light. At one point, we all turned out our lights and just floated.
It felt surreal to be floating past thousand-year-old history on an inner tube, but that contrast between ancient and modern, sacred and playful, somehow captured the Belizean spirit perfectly.
Traditional Creole Cooking
Day three brought an intimate glimpse into Belizean Creole culture with a traditional Creole lunch at a local home in Flowers Bank Village. Our lovely host, Mrs. Dorla, had her fire hearth set up in her backyard, a raised concrete platform with a wood fire underneath and a heavy iron pot on top.
Simmered over an open flame, she made traditional rice and beans. The dish combines red kidney beans, coconut milk, and rice into something smoky and deeply satisfying.
The process takes over an hour. She added the rice, the beans she’d soaked overnight, thyme, garlic, and black pepper. Every fifteen minutes, she’d stir it, checking the consistency. The traditional Creole dish smelled so good that I couldn’t wait to try it.
Creole people make up about 30 percent of Belize’s population, descendants of early British settlers and enslaved Africans who came to the region in the 1800s. Their culinary traditions are a cornerstone of Belizean identity, and I was grateful to experience this traditional dish, passed down through generations.
Mrs. Dorla served rice and beans with a delicious potato salad, so good I had to ask for the recipe. I’ve had rice and beans in probably twenty countries. This was the best I’ve ever had.
Island Getaway on Caye Caulker
A 10-minute flight in a prop plane took us from Belize City to Caye Caulker, and I’ve never experienced such an immediate change in energy. Caye Caulker is a small island—really, a narrow strip of land about five miles long and less than a mile wide—located off the northern coast of Belize.
The island has no cars, just golf carts, bikes, and sandy streets. The airport is a tiny building with one gate. We rode by golf cart to Weezie’s Ocean Front Hotel, which sits right on the Caribbean with three pools, a dock palapa, and an open-air restaurant.
My room looked out straight over the beach, and had its own kitchen, sitting area and even lawn chairs out front.
The island’s motto is painted on signs everywhere: “Go Slow.” People take it seriously.
Snorkeling at Mexico Rocks
That afternoon, we went snorkeling at Mexico Rocks with Anda De Wata Tours. The boat ride from Caye Caulker took maybe five minutes. Mexico Rocks only became a marine reserve in 2015, so it remains refreshingly uncrowded compared to more established sites.
The reef sits in about 12 feet of water, shallow enough to clearly see purple sea fans, bright yellow brain coral, schools of blue tangs, and parrotfish. Later, we snorkel at Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley, where we get to snorkel with nurse sharks, an experience to remember.
The Belize Barrier Reef—the second-largest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef—stretches 190 miles along the coast and supports over 500 species of fish and marine life.
Snorkeling in Belize, I understood why divers and snorkelers make pilgrimages here. I wish I had had time to dive at the Blue Hole, a giant marine sinkhole located off the coast of Belize, part of the Lighthouse Reef Atoll. It’s one of the world’s most famous diving sites. Maybe next time.
My last morning on the island, I sat on Weezie’s dock with coffee and watched the water change color as the sun came up—deep blue to turquoise to almost green in the shallows. A couple of pelicans were fishing nearby, diving straight down and coming up with breakfast.
Four days had given me a good taste of Belize, from jungle walks to ancient Maya sites to aquamarine seas. I would definitely be coming back.
If You Go: Essential Belize Travel Information
Where is Belize?
Belize lies on the eastern coast of Central America, bordered by Mexico to the north, Guatemala to the west and south, and the Caribbean Sea to the east. Despite its Central American location, Belize is culturally Caribbean—evident in everything from the music to the food to the pace of life. With just under 400,000 residents in the entire country, it’s one of the most sparsely populated nations in Central America, which contributes to its intimate, welcoming atmosphere.
When to Visit Belize
Belize has two distinct seasons. The dry season (November through April) offers ideal weather for diving, snorkeling, and exploring ruins, with average winter temperatures around 75°F and minimal rainfall. This is peak tourist season, so expect higher prices and more crowds at popular sites.
The wet season (May through October) brings more rain, particularly in the southern regions where annual rainfall can reach 170 inches. However, you’ll find better rates, fewer tourists, and the jungles are at their most lush and vibrant. Hurricane season officially runs June through November, with September and October carrying the highest risk, though Belize is often spared the worst storms due to its location.
I visited in September and only encountered one brief rain shower. The trade-off of slightly higher weather risk for better rates and smaller crowds felt worth it.
Getting to Belize (Plus Getting Around in Belize)
Belize is surprisingly accessible from the United States, with multiple airlines offering nonstop service to Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) from major hubs across the country. Flight times are manageable—typically two to four hours, depending on your departure city.
Nonstop flights are available from Atlanta (Delta), Dallas (American), Houston (United), Miami (American), Los Angeles, Denver (United), Charlotte (American), Chicago (United), Minneapolis (Sun Country), Newark (United), New York (JetBlue), Seattle (Alaska Air), Ft. Lauderdale (Spirit), San Francisco (seasonally with United) and Baltimore (Southwest).
The variety of departure cities and carriers means you can often find competitive pricing, especially if you’re flexible with dates.
Once in Belize, domestic airlines Maya Island Air and Tropic Air offer frequent flights connecting the mainland to islands and other destinations. These small propeller planes (often seating 8-14) offer spectacular aerial views and quick connections. My flight from Belize City to Caye Caulker took ten minutes. The same trip by water taxi takes 45 minutes and costs around $25-35.
For mainland exploration, rental cars work well, particularly for the Cayo District. The four major highways—Philip Goldson Highway, George Price Highway, Hummingbird Highway, and Southern Highway—are generally well-maintained, though GPS can be unreliable in remote areas.
Entry Requirements for Belize
U.S., Canadian, U.K., and EU citizens need only a passport valid for at least three months beyond your arrival date, a return ticket, and sufficient funds for your stay. No visa is required for stays under 30 days, which can be extended through the Immigration Department if needed.
What is the Currency in Belize?
The Belize dollar (BZD) is fixed at $2 BZD = $1 USD, making currency calculations refreshingly simple. U.S. dollars are accepted virtually everywhere, and ATMs are readily available in towns and tourist areas. I used credit cards at hotels and established restaurants but carried cash for smaller eateries, tour tips, and local shops.
Expect 12.5% sales tax on goods and services and 9% room tax on accommodations. The $39.25 USD international departure tax is now typically included in airline tickets, but confirm when booking. Tipping follows U.S. standards: 10-15% at restaurants, $20-30 per person per day for tour guides.
What to Pack for Belize
Bring reef-safe sunscreen (required by law to protect the marine ecosystem), insect repellent, a reusable water bottle, a wide-brimmed hat, and light long-sleeved shirts and pants for jungle exploration. Swimwear, water shoes for cave tubing and snorkeling, and hiking shoes are essential. Dress in Belize is casual. It was hot, so I was glad I had packed shorts.
What Do They Speak in Belize?
English is the official language. You’ll also hear Spanish (spoken by the Mestizo population), Kriol (Belizean Creole), Garifuna, and various Maya languages throughout the country, particularly in rural areas and villages. Belizeans embody genuine Caribbean warmth and friendliness.
Making the Most of Your Visit
Belize is small enough that you can experience both its mainland and island destinations. I’d recommend at least five days; spend two to three days exploring Maya ruins and jungle adventures, then shift to the islands for two to three days of snorkeling, diving, and beach relaxation. This allows time to adjust to each environment without feeling rushed.
Book tours through licensed, reputable operators. Belizean guides are knowledgeable, professional, and passionate about sharing their country. Their local insight really adds to the experience.
Plan Your Trip to Belize
For more information or help planning your trip, go to TravelBelize.org
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