From Meteorite Lakes to Wood-Fired Crispbread: Autumn in Dalarna, Sweden

Dalarna has long been called “Sweden in miniature.”

The region earned this nickname as the birthplace of Sweden’s most cherished cultural icons: the festive Midsummer traditions, the unmistakable Falu Rödfärg red paint on timber cottages, and the world-famous Dala Horse.

Driven by curiosity about this traditional heartland, my friends and I set out to explore the central Swedish province.

But this was no miniature.

With its mountainous north, lake-filled centre, and gentle, forested south, Dalarna isn’t a smaller version of Sweden; it is the entire essence of Swedish national identity, packed with incredible stories.

Traditional Crispbread Revival

The rich scent of toasted rye and smoke envelops the reborn bakery of Skedvi Bröd in Stora Skedvi, a historic village in Dalarna.

This vital piece of Swedish heritage almost vanished in 2013 when the factory shut down and its original wood-fired ovens were torn out, devastating the local community.

“I met a man who drove 3 hours to buy about 100 kilos of remaining bread he had calculated would last until his life was over,” recounts entrepreneur Anders Åkerberg.

Determined to prevent this loss, Anders and his partner launched a massive crowdfunding effort to restore the ovens and rehire the master bakers.

The project gained an unexpected ally: Benny Andersson of ABBA, a lifelong crispbread devotee.

His crispbread now hangs on the Wall of Fame beside those of visiting Swedish royalty.

Skedvi Bröd is one of the last places in Sweden where the PGI-status (Protected Geographical Indication) crispbread is baked entirely by hand in wood ovens.

“The iconic bread needs just five ingredients: rye, salt, water, yeast, and love,” says Anders, as we watch a veteran baker slide a thin sheet of dough into the blazing flames.

Together with a restaurant, dairy, and greenhouse, the bakery is now an important part of a thriving culinary destination.

Ostrich Farming in Dalarna

The transition from traditional crispbread to an ostrich farm was jarring, but perfectly Dalarna.

Just 6 km from central Borlänge stands Sahlins Struts, where the Sahlin family has maintained a flock of about 140 ostriches since 1994.

Due to stiffer EU competition, they switched from dairy to ostrich farming, committing to a waste-not philosophy that uses every part of the bird.

Their commitment has brought fame: the farm is the site where an ostrich laid the Guinness World Record heaviest egg, weighing 2.589 kg.

While tasting the creamy, unique ice cream made from an ostrich egg, the size of twenty chicken eggs, co-owner Kerstin noted that ostriches “are not very smart, but they have a great instinct and a good memory.”

She added that the birds manage the Swedish winter well, though ice poses a major threat.

It was an unexpected taste of the African savanna, now nurtured in the Swedish woodlands.

Lake Siljan Village Life

The heart of Dalarna’s landscape is undoubtedly Lake Siljan, the sixth-largest lake in Sweden surrounded by small picturesque villages, Tällberg being among the most beloved.

This is where we started our day: on the main street of a village of only 400 inhabitants and characteristic wooden cottages.

Directly on the pavement, a delightful surprise awaited us: our guide Andreas was brewing coffee over an open fire.

“It’s around fika time,” he greeted us with a smile as he handed us a steaming cup.

This beloved Swedish cultural concept is much more than just a coffee break; fika is a social occasion to pause and connect in good company.

Only then did we set out to explore the village that transformed into a summer retreat for Sweden’s cultural elite around 1907.

Meteorite Legacy and Midsummer

Climbing higher with the sparkling Lake Siljan omnipresent, Andreas explained its origin: a colossal meteorite impact 377 million years ago created the lake and the entire Siljan Ring region.

The region encompasses towns like Leksand, Rättvik, home to Scandinavia’s longest wooden pier, and Mora.

“Had it struck today, it would wipe out every single tree in Europe,” he explained, as we snacked on pan-fried local peas and digested the incredible fact that we stood on the edge of a crater.

Walking through the forests, one can easily believe local stories of creatures like Mörksugga (“Dark Soul”)—who steals wandering children—with locals ready to convince any non-believers of the area’s magic.

Though Midsummer is traditionally celebrated in June to welcome the summer, Andreas and his team from Nordic Connect Travel can recreate this Swedish tradition, complete with strawberry cake, flower wreaths, and dancing around the pole, even in the middle of autumn.

Crafting the Dala Horse

Leaving the sparkling backdrop of Lake Siljan, we travel to Nusnäs, the home of the famous Dala Horse factory, where the Dalahäst—a toy that originated as a simple carving in Sweden’s remote logging camps—is made.

Loggers carved the horses by the fire for their children, inspired by the animal’s essential role as a family friend and coworker who pulled timber and worked the fields.

Though carvings date back to the 16th century, the horse became a vital income source during the economic hardship of the mid-19th century.

Families in Dalarna began painting them with signature bright colors, inspired by local furniture, to earn extra money.

“In 1928, the craft was taken up in Nusnäs by the brothers Nils and Jannes Olsson, who were only 15 and 13 years old when they started their workshop,” says local guide Liselotte.

The Dala Horse became internationally famous when a 2.8-meter-tall version stood at the 1939 New York World’s Fair.

Today, the Nusnäs factory continues the tradition.

We can watch artisans painting each horse by hand with astonishing speed and precision, applying the intricate kurbits pattern to preserve this vibrant Swedish heritage.

Anders Zorn’s Artistic Legacy

From Nusnäs we travel to Mora, home of one of Sweden’s best-known artists, Anders Zorn.

His captivating love story with Emma Lamm, the cosmopolitan daughter of a wealthy merchant family, began in Stockholm in 1881 when Zorn was commissioned to paint Emma’s nephew.

Emma was immediately drawn to the ambitious artist, but their engagement was kept secret until Zorn could match her economic standing.

Specializing in vibrant, impressionistic oils—from sensual nudes to portraits of high society and three U.S. presidents—Zorn earned a fortune that ensured their triumphant return home.

Settling in their hometown of Mora in 1896, the Zorns created Zorngården, a residence that uniquely married traditional timberwork with striking modernity.

Serving as a technological marvel, complete with central heating, a refrigerator, and Mora’s first home telephone, the cozy yet luxurious house, run by Emma, frequently hosted famous guests.

The Zorn legacy is preserved today in Mora at the world-class Zorn Museum, home to the world’s largest collection of his work, and Zorngården itself.

Craft Beer and Cheese Makers

Beyond its rich traditions and art, the Dalarna region pulses with a renewed entrepreneurial spirit, clearly evident in the picturesque village of Stjernsund.

Here, founders Per and Peter transformed a dilapidated 1916 culturally protected transformer station into Stjernsunds Brygghus, a modern, high-tech sanctuary for organic brewing.

Their handcrafted beer uses Swedish hops grown mainly by Tyler, an American expat who fell in love with his now Swedish wife, Sweden, and hops—in this very order.

Tyler explains that their beer is seasonal and hyper-local: “The 10-Mile beer is made of one of the best fresh Swedish hops I grow on a piece of land just a stone’s throw from the brewery.”

This microbrewery is now successfully weaving together local agriculture and a strong community.

Just a short, scenic drive away, near Borlänge, lies Murboannas, a pastoral dairy and farm shop.

It began with Anna Reyier’s singular passion: crafting exceptional cheese from the milk of her family’s land in Murbo, realizing a childhood dream.

Anna’s dedication to local, high-quality ingredients quickly earned national recognition for her creations, from creamy grillost to rich, village-named hard cheeses.

Tragically, Anna passed away at 45, but her husband, former milk producer Mats Reyier, resolved to continue her work.

Aided by new French cheesemaker Francis Bigot, Mats keeps Anna’s philosophy alive, a success proven by the silver and bronze medals two Murboannas cheeses won at the World Cheese Awards 2023.

Unique Autumn Stays

Traveling through Dalarna during the crisp autumn days is an adventure in itself, but here even the lodging transforms into a special experience.

Begin in the south with Garpenbergs Slott, a magnificent, French-style château, where every room whispers of former royalty.

It is steeped in over four centuries of Swedish history, tracing its origins back to the mid-16th century when King Gustav Vasa founded a royal farm here.

Moving to Tällberg, the charming Hotel Villa Långbers provides a historic hilltop retreat.

Originally a private 1930s villa and beloved gathering place for artists, including Astrid Lindgren, the hotel with panoramic Lake Siljan views has since grown, but its soul remains the same.

Don’t miss the stunning spa at Dalecarlia Hotel & Spa nearby, where you can soak in the outdoor hot springs or sauna, gazing out at the misty lake at sunset.

Further north in Orsa, the unique, family-run Kungshaga Hotel overlooks Lake Orsa and preserves the warm history of a 1918 parish home.

It also offers a spectacular, private floating hotel room on the lake in summer.

Read More: Skip the Crowds: 10 European Destinations That Are Actually Better in Fall

Plan Your Visit

Dalarna General Info

Tällberg Guided Tours/Experiences

Train Tickets (SJ)

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Author Bio: Zuzana Zimmermannova is a globally experienced freelance journalist with a passion for storytelling who shares her perspective through articles in magazines, newspapers, and online publications. With a portfolio built across 50+ countries, she delivers compelling travel stories, in-depth interviews, and insightful reports. Her work has appeared in Forbes, GEO, Go World Travel Magazine and other leading publications. She loves uncovering authentic local stories through food, culture, and adventure.

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