Bell Tower Boot Camp
I’m not a fan of tight, enclosed spaces—especially when they involve steep, ladder-like stairs that challenge my aging quads and elevate my heart rate to rock-concert levels. But the reward waiting at the top of Split’s 1,700-year-old bell tower is said to be worth the climb: a sweeping view of the Adriatic and a skyline punctuated by red-tiled roofs and Roman relics.
Also, it’ll help burn off the Eggs Benny and buttery croissant I devoured this morning on the cruise ship’s Lido Deck.
Split is one of nine ports on our twelve-day Mediterranean cruise. Though Croatia’s second-largest city—with a population of about 200,000—it hums with a small-town soul. Its beating heart is the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built as the retirement digs for Roman Emperor Diocletian in the 4th century. Today, it’s a buzzing labyrinth of ancient stone and vibrant modern life.
And at the center of this maze stands the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, where our morning “step class” begins.
After ascending to the top and catching my breath, I take in the view. A tumble of red-roofed homes terraces down to a sea-hugging promenade where cafés and shops spill into the sun. Superyachts, tour boats, and our own floating hotel—the cruise ship—bob in the marina. It’s a living postcard.
Strolling Through the Centuries
From the bell tower, we descend into Peristil Square, where Roman columns frame modern life—musicians play, tourists sip espresso, and the occasional costumed gladiator poses for photos. We join the flow of explorers weaving through the narrow marble alleys of Diocletian’s Palace.
Along the way, we pass cultural gems like the Emanuel Vidović Gallery, home to the works of one of Croatia’s celebrated artists, and the Split City Museum, which spans three floors of artifacts and local history. Nearby is the Temple of Jupiter, once dedicated to the king of Roman gods and still boasting its original vaulted ceiling.
At the north gate of Old Town stands the imposing Statue of Gregory of Nin. “Rub his toe and make a wish,” my husband Brent says, gesturing toward the statue’s shiny, well-worn foot.
I oblige—though I follow up with a baby wipe. Ancient magic might grant wishes, but it’s no match for modern germs.
Café Culture and Croatian Flavors
As we meander the alleys, the scent of grilled seafood and garlic draws us into a hidden courtyard. Tucked away from the bustle, Korta Café is a culinary gem serving up traditional Dalmatian dishes. Black risotto, lamb with peas, and grilled fish all beckon—but I choose brodet, a hearty Croatian stew brimming with shrimp, mussels, and pillowy gnocchi in a rich tomato-garlic broth.
Though the cruise ship has spoiled us with endless meals, I clean the bowl with satisfaction. There’s something special about dining in a centuries-old courtyard, surrounded by stone walls and sun-dappled vines.
Re-energized, we head toward the Riva Promenade, Split’s social spine. Palm-lined and pulsing with life, it’s a place where locals sip espresso, tourists wander with cones of gelato, and the sea breeze cuts through the Adriatic sun. The water glistens, a constant invitation to stay a little longer.
Read More: Top 10 Things to Do in Split, Croatia
Beaches or Bougainvillea?
“Want to try Bačvice Beach?” I ask Brent, eyeing the nearby stretch of golden sand, rare for a region known more for pebbly shores. “Or we could check out Kašuni or Obojena, down by Marjan Hill?”
He grins. “Let’s get a little more exercise. How about we hike to the summit?”
More stairs? My thighs launch a silent protest, but I know resistance is futile. Besides, after that brodet, a walk might be just what I need.
The Climb Up Marjan Hill
We begin the climb up Marjan Hill, Split’s beloved green escape. Often called “the lungs of the city,” Marjan is draped in pine forests alive with cicadas and vibrant with bougainvillea. The old stone steps lead us up and up, the scent of the sea blending with sun-warmed pine.
Partway up, we pass Café Bar Vidilica, where smart travelers sip cold beers while soaking in panoramic views. We press on—each turn revealing glimpses of the sea, each step a small triumph.
At around the 300-step mark, we reach Prva Vidilica, a lookout terrace offering a bar for the thirsty and a million-dollar view for everyone else. Below, Split unfurls like a painting—ancient rooftops, the bustling harbor, and islands dotting the horizon.
Tucked nearby in the woods is a Jewish cemetery, a solemn site honoring those who perished in the Holocaust and fought with Tito’s Partisans. A few steps further brings us to the Church of St. Nicholas, a Romanesque beauty dating to the 13th century.
We pause for a photo on the terrace and soak in the scene. It’s possible to drive here too, I remind myself. But where’s the satisfaction in that?
Split’s Old Town and Marjan Hill: A Self-Guided Audio Tour
To the Top: Telegrin Summit
While most visitors call it a day at the terrace, Brent has other ideas. “Let’s go all the way to Telegrin—the summit. It’s only another hundred steps or so.”
Is he a glutton for punishment or simply high on Croatian scenery?
I follow, legs aching but spirit light. Oddly, as we near the summit, we pass a small zoo tucked into the hillside—how the animals got up here is anyone’s guess. We’re also joined by a curious number of feral cats, lounging in patches of sunlight and generally ignoring us.
Finally, we reach the 175-meter peak of Marjan Hill, and the effort is worth every drop of sweat. From here, the Adriatic stretches to the horizon, Split sparkles below, and our cruise ship waits in the harbor—our floating buffet and soon-to-be refuge for another dessert.
A City That Moves You
As the breeze rushes through the hilltop pines and the sea glints like sapphire below, I understand why travelers fall hard for Split. It’s a place where history and modern life are forever entwined, where stone-paved lanes whisper ancient stories, and where every view seems to outdo the last.
Yes, my thighs will ache tomorrow—but for now, I feel weightless.
Learn More on Split’s Official Website
Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:
Author Bio: Since 1996, while freelancing, Jane Cassie has had thousands of articles published. Her stories have appeared CNN Magazine, Northwest Travel, New York Daily News, Chicken Soup For The Soul, Dreamscapes, Air Canada In-flight, Cottage Life, Epicure and Travel, just to name a few. She has been a regular contributor to Spa Life, INNspire, North American Inns Magazine, Cottage, and is a regular contributor to Inspire Magazines.
Want to discover more hidden gems and helpful travel tips? Join our free newsletter for the latest travel secrets and travel articles.
We are reader-supported and may earn a commission on purchases made through links in this article.
- Escaping the 9-5: A Month Living Off-Grid in Costa Rica - January 22, 2026
- Motorcycling New Jersey’s Pine Barrens: Fire Roads and Fellowship - January 22, 2026
- The 15 Best Places to Visit in Italy for History, Art and Endless Beauty - January 22, 2026