Brno may not have the global renown of Prague, but the city pulses with a life and charm all its own. The second-largest city in the Czech Republic, Brno is a dynamic university town rich with history, buzzing with creativity and brimming with attractions.
Traveling with my wife, Nataliya, and teenage son, Alex, we set out by bus for a few days’ break from Prague to meet up with some local friends and discover all Brno had to offer.
A Stroll Through Brno
We arrived by bus and crossed the street to meet Hana at the train station. She welcomed us with a warm smile and big hugs.
“This way,” she said, leading us to our nearby apartment, where we checked in, freshened up and followed her into the heart of old town for an impromptu walking tour.
The streets of Brno buzzed with life. At Cabbage Market Square, vendors displayed colorful rows of produce, flowers and fresh pastries.
“This market has been here for centuries.” Hana gestured to the surrounding buildings, their facades a charming mix of pastel hues and Baroque details. Indeed, the square has been a marketplace since the late 12th century, making it one of the oldest continuously operating markets in Central Europe.
The nearby Main Square was equally vibrant. A crowd collected around Brno’s modern astronomical clock. Its sleek, black, bullet-shaped design stood in stark contrast to the historic architecture around it.
“Every day at 11 a.m., it dispenses a marble,” Hana said. “It’s a tradition to try and catch it.”
Photo by Eric D. Goodman
As we walked through the square, Hana pointed out cafés, shops, and hidden courtyards. Our destination was Masaryk University – named after the first president of a united Czechoslovakia.
Upon arriving at the Faculty of Social Sciences, its stately grandeur transported us immediately back to the early 20th century.
Hana led us up a few flights of stairs and into a lively reception. Professors and researchers stood in clusters, sipping Moravian wine and Czech beer and nibbling on hors d’oeuvres.
The space was filled with the hum of conversation, punctuated by bursts of laughter. We spotted Jan across the room, engaged in a discussion with two colleagues. He didn’t see us at first, so we lifted a few glasses of the red wine and formed our own small cluster.
“This feels like crashing a wedding,” Nataliya whispered, grinning.
Alex reached for a tray of small sandwiches. “I’m just here for the snacks,” he said.
When Jan finally caught sight of us, his face lit up. It was all we could do to keep from laughing out loud. He finished his conversation, then excused himself and crossed the room, arms outstretched.
“You made it!” he said, pulling us into a round of hugs. “And I see you already found the local wine.”
“When in Rome,” I said, and he reminded me that it was nearly six years earlier that we met up in Rome.
We stayed just long enough to enjoy a few more bites and catch up before leaving the university and heading to dinner.
Špilberk Castle Has Stories to Tell
The next morning, we began at Špilberk Castle, perched atop a hill that overlooks Brno. Its name, derived from the German “Spielberg”, translates to “Play Mountain”—a fitting title for a place with centuries of history etched into its stones.
We explored the battlements, where sweeping views of the city unfolded before us. The vibrant greenery of the surrounding parks contrasted with the red-tiled rooftops below, and the distant spires of churches pierced the sky.
Inside, we wandered through exhibits showcasing the castle’s evolution from a royal residence to a military fortress and a grim prison. In the underground tunnels, dimly lit corridors led to cold, damp cells where political prisoners were once held.
“It’s like a medieval dungeon,” Alex said, his voice echoing off the stone walls.
Architectural Quirks and Legends
Back down in Brno, we wandered through the city center, pausing in the main square and detouring into the Cabbage Market before visiting Brno’s Old Town Hall. A crooked Gothic spire greeted us, its twisted pinnacle noticeably unique.
According to lore, the sculptor, Anton Pilgram, disgruntled over a payment dispute with the city council, intentionally crafted the central pinnacle of the portal askew as a subtle act of defiance.
Passing beneath the archway, we entered a dim corridor where two of Brno’s most enduring symbols awaited.
Suspended from the ceiling was the so-called “Brno Dragon” — in reality, a taxidermy crocodile. Legend tells of a beast that once terrorized the city until a clever butcher tricked it into consuming a lime-filled carcass, causing its demise.
Adjacent to the dragon hung a massive wooden wheel. Once, a craftsman from nearby Lednice bet he could fell a tree, fashion a wheel and roll it to Brno within a single day. The wheel here now is proof that he won the wager.
Beyond the passage, the town hall’s courtyard unfolded, a serene enclave framed by Renaissance arcades. The blend of architectural elegance and storied artifacts encapsulated Brno’s unique charm.
The city’s mix of medieval and modern styles creates a dynamic aesthetic, with hidden courtyards and colorful facades waiting to be discovered.
Bones Beneath the Chapel
Our next destination was St. James’ Square, dominated by the imposing Church of St. James, its Gothic spires reaching towards the sky. We stepped inside, marveling at the intricate stained-glass windows and the soaring vaulted ceiling.
Descending a narrow staircase from the church, we entered the Brno Ossuary, a place that evoked a sense of solemn fascination. The human remains, meticulously arranged in intricate patterns, formed a unique and somewhat macabre art exhibit.
Alex was mesmerized by the intricate arrangement of bones, decorative patterns made from human remains.
“It’s a melancholy art gallery,” he said, walking slowly past the displays.
A similar meditation on mortality can be found at Brno’s Capuchin Crypt. Located beneath the Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross, the crypt houses the naturally mummified bodies of Capuchin friars and other citizens.
The unique conditions within the crypt have preserved these remains over centuries.
Secrets Beneath the Cabbage Market
Brno’s deep, dark secrets don’t stop with crypts and ossuaries. There’s a whole layer of secrets, like another world, beneath Cabbage Market Square.
We descended into the Underground Museum, a labyrinth of medieval cellars and storerooms. The air grew cooler as we moved deeper into the tunnels, our footsteps echoing on stone floors. A tour guide took us through the underground displays.
Some rooms were damp, with droplets of water sliding down the walls, remnants of the ancient water system that once supplied the city. Others were eerily dry, their stillness amplifying the sense of history.
Our guide explained the intricate network of cellars, how they were used for storage, brewing, and even as secret hideouts during times of conflict. Chambers here covered everything from storehouses to alchemist labs, torture chambers to dining halls.
As we emerged from the depths, sunlight blinded us until we adjusted to the sights and sounds of the square again.
Brno’s Brewing Heritage
No visit to Brno would be complete without exploring its beer culture. The Starobrno Brewery has origins tracing back to a 14th-century monastery. Today, the Starobrno blends a reverence for centuries-old traditions with the complexity of modern brewing techniques.
We explored the historic cellars and exhibits, learning how monks once brewed here and how brewmasters carry on the tradition today. The highlight was, of course, the tasting room, where visitors can sample fresh pilsners with crisp, malty flavors.
“This isn’t just beer,” Jan said, raising his glass. “It’s a liquid history lecture you can drink.” “Cheers to that,” I said, clinking my glass mug with his.
Science and Spirituality
Next to the brewery, we visited the Mendel Museum, located in St. Thomas’s Abbey, where we learned about Gregor Mendel’s groundbreaking pea plant experiments that laid the foundation for modern genetics.
Interactive displays and historical artifacts brought his work to life, inspiring both curiosity and admiration.
Equally moving was our visit to St. Peter and Paul Church, its twin spires rising like sentinels over the city. Inside, the chapel’s ornate carvings and stained glass filtered sunlight into brilliant patterns, creating a sense of peace.
A Pause in the Park
Late in the afternoon, we found our way to the open, leafy sprawl of Lužánky Park. It felt like a community’s living room — couples reading on blankets, students playing hacky sack, children wobbling on bikes.
Lužánky is the oldest municipal park in what was once the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and it still carries the grace of that era with wide walking paths, classical sculptures and a neo-Renaissance pavilion at its center.
We strolled beneath chestnut trees and past a small garden of herbs and roses. An elderly man fed pigeons with the patience of a monk. A group of children appeared to be on an after-school outing, a few parents or teachers keeping them in sight as they played.
The park provided a welcome break from busy market squares and underground passages. But before long, we were ready to return to the city.
Theatrics in Brno
That evening, we attended a ballet performance at the Reduta Theater, just off Cabbage Market Square, which happens to be the oldest theater building in Central Europe. In this theater, Mozart performed as a child in 1767.
The venue itself was breathtaking, with gilded balconies and a grand chandelier casting a warm glow over the audience. The modern dance production was riveting, blending contemporary choreography with modern and classical music.
During intermission, Jan, Hana, Nataliya, Alex, and I enjoyed a glass of Moravian wine. “Na Zdravi,” Hana said, offering the native toast to your health.
We all lifted our glasses and attempted the traditional Czech toast. The sentiment was there even if the pronunciation was lacking.
Read More: A True Bohemian Rhapsody: Celebrating Classical Music in Czechia
If You Go
Photo by Eric D. Goodman
Brno is a city of contrasts—historic yet youthful, quirky yet profound.
To reach Brno, Flixbus offers a comfortable and economical ride from Prague. The train or a car rental is another option.
For accommodations, consider renting a flat near the city center for easy access to its many attractions.
Must-sees include Špilberk Castle, St. Jacob’s Ossuary, and the Starobrno Brewery, and the Mendel Museum.
With its blend of history, culture, and charm, Brno promises an unforgettable experience.
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Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman is author of seven books. His most recent, Faraway Tables, was an Amazon Bestseller (#1 in Poetry ebooks, May 2025). The poems are focused on travel and a longing for other places. Learn more about Eric and his writing at www.EricDGoodman.com
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