As I stood at the trailhead in Theth, gazing up at the jagged peaks of the Albanian Alps, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of anticipation. Or maybe it was my stomach still reeling from the rugged ride from Shkodër on the narrow mountain pass roads.
Regardless, these mountains, also known as the Accursed Mountains or Prokletije, have remained one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, protecting ancient ways of life within their dramatic valleys.
Nestled in southeastern Europe, Albania borders Montenegro and its more tourist-trodden neighbor, Greece, with a stunning coastline along the Adriatic and Ionian seas. This strategic location has shaped its rich and complex history, making it a crossroads of civilizations for millennia.
Albania stands out for its unique cultural heritage, being one of the few places where you can find influences from ancient Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and the intriguing period of Communist isolation under Enver Hoxha.
The country’s isolation during the Communist era (1944-1992) has paradoxically helped preserve many of its traditions and kept it off the mainstream tourist radar.
The Albanian language is one of the oldest in Europe, forming its unique branch of the Indo-European family tree. It’s not closely related to any other modern language, making it a linguistic enigma that reflects the country’s distinctive cultural identity.
A Taste of Tradition
Before embarking on my 17km (10.5 miles) hike from Theth to Valbonë, my dear friend at Dream Tours Albania suggested I needed a hearty meal before this hike and join his grandparents for an authentic Albanian meal.
He insisted I join them for their afternoon meal preparation. It was a true honor to be a part of this culinary experience coupled with cultural and historic insight, putting many formal culinary schools to shame.
We started the day with homemade Raki, as one does. What makes Albanian raki special from many other types is that no spices are added, stressing the pure flavor of the fruit without being masked.
Under the watchful eye of his grandmother, I learned to make petulla (traditional fried bread) and fergese (a dish of peppers and cheese) using ingredients sourced entirely from their small farm, including the chicken. I’ll spare the details on that process.
Cooking tools used were the Vorba, an ancient earthenware cooking vessel made from varieties of minerals developed in the village of Gojan used for stewing beans, and the saç, essentially a metal lid topped with charcoal and ashes and used as a heat source from above to cook things like burek, lakror, and flija.
Rich in flavor and colors, Albanian cuisine has been influenced by surrounding culinary cultures, and it has often been considered a melting pot of Mediterranean, Balkan, and Ottoman cuisines.
After 8 hours of prep and cooking, we all sat down to enjoy the fruits of our labor, savoring every morsel and appreciating the traditions passed down after generations.
First Steps into the Unknown
The morning September air was crisp as I shouldered my backpack with too many snacks (can you have too many snacks?) and followed my newly formed friend and fellow solo female traveler along a centuries-old shepherd’s path to Valbonë.
The trail, worn smooth by generations of footsteps, wound through dense beech forests before emerging onto alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers and lush greenery.
Unlike the well-trodden paths of the Swiss Alps or Pyrenees, here there were no crowds, no gift shops – just the raw authenticity of the mountains. Just one spot to fill your water and use the toilet.
Read More: 25 Amazing Things Not to Miss When You Tour the Balkans
Living History in the Highlands
What struck me most wasn’t just the pristine landscape but the living connection to the past.
We passed shepherds tending their flocks using methods unchanged for centuries and traditional stone houses, called “kullas,” stood as a testament to the resilience of mountain communities who have called these valleys home for generations.
After about 9 hours of hiking, we graced Valbonë with our filthy, mountain-trodden presence. Something was humbling about the area. Limited restaurants and grocery shops, and zero commercialization. Just a perfect way to enjoy nature and soak in your hiking experience.
While the next couple of days were too rainy for nearby hikes, it allowed me to reflect on my experience and chat with the guest house host over an “Albanian breakfast” consisting of a cigarette and espresso, and I learned about his family business.
Moments of interacting with locals are truly the most memorable and a reminder of why responsible travel is so critical.
He grew up in the Alps and knew unmarked trails like the back of his hand, even leading prominent nature and hiking figures through the Albanian Alps.
These majestic mountains may seduce you, but they’re not for inexperienced hikers or those without a guide, as there are very few to no trail markings. So always inform your guest house or trusted contacts of your location and expected arrival time.
As I watched the mist rolling in the valley on my final morning in Valbonë, with the flowers and grass dew-kissed, I reflected on how rare it is to find places that still feel genuinely undiscovered.
The Albanian Alps are more than just a hiking destination; they’re a window into a way of life that has largely disappeared from Europe, preserved here in these remote valleys.
The experience left me with a profound appreciation not just for the region’s natural beauty but for the people who have been its stewards for countless generations. In an age of overtourism and Instagram hotspots, the Albanian Alps offer something increasingly precious: raw beauty.
Responsible Tourism in Practice
What makes this region special is not just its unspoiled beauty, but the thoughtful way tourism is being developed. Local families run small guesthouses, guides are from the community, and there’s a growing effort to preserve both the natural environment and cultural heritage.
If You Go
- Best time to visit: June to September, when mountain passes are clear of snow
- I recommend Safetywing for Travel and Health Insurance
- Base yourself in Theth or Valbonë for the best hiking access. Buses are available from Tirana and Shkodër
- Hire local guides – they know the trails intimately and can facilitate meaningful cultural interactions
- Stay in family-run guesthouses to support the local economy, as many provide family-style meals included in the nightly rate
- Leave no trace: bring reusable water bottles, cutlery, or compact travel containers
- Be prepared for basic facilities as this is part of the region’s charm
- If you need help planning your trip, you can reach out to me
Getting to Albania
The main gateway to Albania is Tirana International Airport (TIA), which has increasing connections to major European cities. Budget airlines like Wizz Air and Ryanair have recently expanded their routes, making travel more accessible.
Alternatively, you can reach Albania by bus from neighboring countries or by ferry from Italy to the coastal cities of Durrës or Vlorë.
From Tirana, regular buses connect to major cities, including Shkodër, the gateway to the Albanian Alps. There typically aren’t visible signs, mainly bus drivers shouting where they’re heading. Some accommodations in Shkodër will also connect you with a shuttle bus.
While public transportation exists, it’s worth noting that schedules can be flexible and infrastructure is still developing, which is part of the authentic charm that makes Albania such an adventure.
Author Bio: Erica Hanger is a travel writer, content marketer, and responsible travel advisor with a passion for sustainable travel and cultural preservation. With years of experience exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations, she specializes in crafting authentic travel experiences that benefit local communities while minimizing environmental impact.
Her work focuses on promoting responsible tourism practices, highlighting lesser-known destinations, and creating meaningful connections between travelers and local cultures. Through her writing and consulting services, she helps travelers plan immersive journeys that go beyond traditional tourist routes.
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