Most itineraries for Morocco begin the same way. A few days exploring Marrakech, perhaps a visit to the Atlas Mountains, and if time allows, a journey to the Sahara.
Agafay is often mentioned as an alternative to the Sahara because it is less than an hour from Marrakech. While that comparison is convenient, I think it does the destination a disservice.
What Is Agafay?

Unlike the Sahara, Agafay is not a sea of towering golden sand dunes. It is a rocky desert made up of rolling hills, dry riverbeds, scattered shrubs and wide-open landscapes that seem to change colour throughout the day.
It offers a completely different experience. Instead of travelling deep into southern Morocco, visitors can escape the pace of Marrakech in under an hour while still experiencing the beauty and stillness of the desert.
Agafay is not trying to be the Sahara.
After spending time in both Marrakech and Agafay, I came to appreciate that they are not competitors. They complement one another, and together they offer a more complete picture of Morocco.
Marrakech’s Energy

Marrakech is a city that captures your attention from the moment you arrive. The medina is alive with movement.
Motorbikes weave through narrow streets. Spices perfume the air, shopkeepers welcome visitors into their stores and every corner seems to reveal another courtyard, rooftop café, or hidden riad. It is energetic, colourful, and unforgettable.
It is also wonderfully intense.
After several days exploring the city, I realised I wasn’t looking for another attraction. I was looking for somewhere to slow down.
That is exactly what Agafay offered.
The Journey To Agafay
The drive from Marrakech takes around 40 minutes, yet it feels much farther away. The traffic begins to disappear, the roads become quieter and the landscape gradually changes into rolling hills of stone and earth with the Atlas Mountains on the horizon.
Staying at Kasbah d’If

We stayed at Kasbah d’If, a boutique hotel that opened in 2025 and feels as though it belongs in the landscape rather than sitting on top of it.
Built using natural colours and materials that mirror its surroundings, the property feels understated rather than extravagant. It encourages guests to appreciate the landscape instead of competing with it.
One detail I appreciated was what the rooms did not include. There are no televisions. At first, that felt unusual. By the second day, it made complete sense. Without another screen competing for attention, evenings naturally became about conversation, reading, watching the changing light outside, or simply doing nothing at all.
From the moment we arrived, the pace changed.
There was nowhere we needed to rush to. No crowded itinerary waiting for us. The landscape became the main attraction.
Food, Spa and Pool

Breakfast quickly became one of my favourite parts of the day. We found ourselves looking forward to the pancakes, French toast, fresh fruit parfaits, Moroccan breads, and excellent coffee each morning.
It was the kind of breakfast that encouraged you to linger over another cup instead of checking the time.
The service throughout our stay was consistently warm and attentive. Every member of staff made us feel genuinely welcome, but Muhammad, who worked at the outdoor bar, deserves a special mention.
He always greeted us with a smile, remembered our favourite drinks, and quietly made sure we had everything we needed without ever being intrusive. Those small acts of kindness often become the moments that stay with you long after a trip has ended.
The property also includes restaurants, a clubhouse, a spa, and a beautiful pool overlooking the desert.
We booked a couples massage at the Lumpatchi Spa, which turned out to be one of the highlights of our stay. Afterward, we spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool with no real plan except to enjoy where we were.
Life In The Desert

One of the biggest surprises was how alive the desert felt. Before arriving, I imagined complete silence. Instead, swallows swooped gracefully over the pool throughout the day. Frogs could be heard in the evenings, crickets filled the night air, and birds welcomed each morning.
It was a reminder that even landscapes that appear harsh at first glance are full of life if you take the time to notice.
What surprised me most was how peaceful the hotel felt. Even though there were other guests, there were long stretches where it genuinely felt as though we had the place to ourselves.
There were no lines, no competition for a sun lounger, and no pressure to move on to the next activity. Slowing down became less of an intention and more of something that happened naturally.
As the afternoon faded into evening, everyone naturally drifted toward the terraces and pool to watch the sunset. The colours changed almost by the minute as the hills softened into shades of gold and amber. It was simple, unhurried, and one of the most memorable parts of the trip.
Weather And Comfort

We visited in July, expecting the desert heat to be overwhelming. Instead, the mornings were surprisingly fresh, with cool breezes moving across the open landscape.
The dry climate also made the temperatures feel more comfortable than we expected. Ironically, we often felt hotter navigating the narrow lanes of Marrakech’s medina than we did relaxing in Agafay, where the open landscape allowed the air to circulate freely.
Finding Balance

Looking back, I think Agafay offered something that Marrakech could not. It offered balance.
Marrakech is exciting because there is always another street to explore, another palace to visit, another market to wander through.
Agafay asks very little of you. It invites you to linger over breakfast, spend an afternoon by the pool, read the book you’ve been meaning to finish, or simply sit quietly and watch the landscape change as the day unfolds.
Travel often encourages us to do more. Visit another museum. Book another excursion. Find another restaurant. Agafay quietly suggests something different. Sometimes doing less is exactly what makes a trip memorable.
Five Reasons To Stay Two Nights

Photo by Natasha Soares
Many visitors book Agafay as a day excursion from Marrakech. After spending two nights there, I think staying overnight is where the destination truly shines.
Firstly, you experience the desert at its best. The landscape looks completely different at sunrise and sunset. Soft morning light gives way to warm golden evenings, and those quieter hours became some of my favourite memories.
You also have time to enjoy your surroundings. Boutique hotels like Kasbah d’If are destinations in themselves. Spending only a few hours means missing the pool, the spa, the slower breakfasts and the simple pleasure of having nowhere else to be.
There’s no need to watch the clock. One of the greatest luxuries of staying overnight is not thinking about the drive back to Marrakech. The day unfolds naturally instead of following a schedule.
You experience genuine Moroccan hospitality in Agafay. The longer you stay, the more personal the experience becomes. Staff begin to recognise you, conversations continue from the day before, and the hotel starts to feel less like accommodation and more like a place you’ve settled into.
Finally, it balances your Moroccan itinerary. Marrakech introduces you to Morocco‘s energy, history, architecture and culture. Agafay provides a chance to slow down and appreciate it all before returning home.
Know Before You Go
Distance from Marrakech: Around 40 minutes by car.
Recommended stay: Two nights.
Best for: Couples, photographers, wellness travellers, and anyone looking to balance the energy of Marrakech with a slower pace.
What to pack: Comfortable clothing, sunglasses, a hat, sunscreen, swimwear, and a light layer for the cooler mornings and evenings.
What to expect: Agafay is a rocky desert, not a sea of sand dunes. If you arrive expecting the Sahara, you may be surprised. If you arrive looking for beautiful scenery, thoughtful hospitality, and a chance to slow down, you may find it becomes one of the highlights of your Moroccan journey.
If you are planning a trip to Marrakech, I would not recommend choosing between the city and Agafay. I would recommend experiencing both.
One introduces you to Morocco’s colour, culture, and energy. The other reminds you that sometimes the best part of travelling is finally having nowhere else to be.
Need a hand planning your trip? Here are the sites and services we rely on most, from booking tools to travel products we love.
Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:
- Waking Up With the Pharaohs: A Mother-Daughter Journey Through Luxor and Beyond
- Adventures in Agadir: Exploring Morocco’s Enchanting Coastal City
Author Bio: Natasha Soares is a Canadian writer and poet, now based in Lisbon with her husband and twosmall children. A published poet (Beyond The Heart’s Veil –The Anthology of a Soul’s Ascension), her work explores love, loss, healing, and inner growth. She finds the joy in the little things – a cappuccino sipped slowly, a well-timed Seinfeld punchline, the crisp scratch of a sharp pen on fresh paper, and nights spent decoding the universe through psychospiritual YouTube rabbit holes.
Want to discover more hidden gems and helpful travel tips? Join our free newsletter for the latest travel secrets and travel articles.
We are reader-supported and may earn a commission on purchases made through links in this article.
- Oslo in Summer: Chasing the Long Light in One of the World’s Happiest Cities - August 25, 2026
- Agafay, Morocco: Why an Overnight Stay Beats a Day Trip From Marrakech - August 25, 2026
- Armenia Rewards the Curious Traveler - August 24, 2026

