The British Museum of Natural History, an ornate, towering, terracotta Romanesque cathedral, one of London’s most iconic landmarks, was bathed in blue – one of the primary colors of La Famiglia’s interior.
La Famiglia, the groundbreaking, historic yet vibrant restaurant founded by the late Alvaro Maccioni, the man who originally brought authentic Tuscan cuisine to London, had to get creative when it came time to celebrate its 50th anniversary.
After all, how could the landmark yet intimate trattoria, which had been expanded some time ago to seat 210 people, accommodate its “regular guests?”
This includes generations of families; Chelsea neighborhood locals, who found themselves at tables beside notables such as Princesses Margaret, Grace and Diana (with her boys). As well as performers such as Peter Sellers, Liz Taylor, Tony Bennett, Eric Clapton, and Michael Caine, to name a few?
La Famiglia even hoped to squeeze me in, an American travel writer who has, for decades, indulged in a long-distance romance with the restaurant.
I have experienced some of my most beloved moments dipping grissini into their famed olive tapenade, or a spoon into Alvaro’s traditional pasta e fagioli. Or swaddling a fork full of a broad ribbon of fresh egg flat pasta coated in Maccioni’s wild boar sauce: pappardelle al cinghiale.
Quite seriously, I would, and have, flown to London expressly to dine at La Famiglia. My infatuation is such that I already know what I will order next time: Agnolotti del Plin ai tre arrosti: the chef’s special pasta made with small pieces of flattened pasta dough folded over a filling of braised beef seasoned with sage and butter.
See it for yourself at LaFamiglia.co.uk
How To Invite Such a Large Following/Famiglia?
Two years before the October 2025 La Famiglia “Centi Anni” gala, after a dolce dessert
of torta della nonna, I sat sipping a limoncello in the trattoria’s bright, homey terrace dining room.
Marrietta Maccioni, Alvaro’s daughter, who is now proprietor of La Famiglia, and her partner in all things, Fabio Cozari (who, in his ever-present ascot, keeps La Famiglia operating in fine fashion), are in demand by diners at every table. I was delighted they spent some time with me.
Over the din, Marietta told me of her plan to stage an event to celebrate La Famiglia’s 50 years.
“We are going to hold the party in the central atrium of the British Museum of Natural History in South Kensington. It is not too far from our location here in Chelsea, and we will be able to invite up to 500 people in addition to staff members and their families…present and past.”
I would never presume to be among the invited, so I asked Marietta if there was anything I could do to help, including doing the dishes or cleaning up after.
“Hmm…actually, not that…but there is something,” she said, looking at me through the bottom of her round spectacles. “I am expected to give a talk or a toast. Would you sort of emcee the event and introduce me?”
It took me the entire two years until the actual party night to stop being speechless at Marietta’s request. What an unspeakable honor, pardon the pun!
During the two years, I expected every day to hear from Marietta with news that she had changed her mind or someone else, perhaps a Londoner or an Italian family member, was preferred or was a more appropriate choice to take the microphone and do the honors.
The cancellation call never came – but the big day did! October 7, 2025.
History in a Historic Setting
Photo by Michael Patrick Shiels
The stately British Museum of Natural History opened its doors in 1881. The ornate, towering terracotta Romanesque cathedral is one of London’s most iconic landmarks.
Its entire edifice, on the night of the gala, was bathed in blue – one of the primary colors of La Famiglia’s interior.
The gala itself was staged in Hinze Hall, the four-story central space inside the museum with a 25-metre blue whale skeleton hanging from the ceiling over the mosaic-tiled floor.
La Famiglia restaurant, itself, was very much an invited guest to the gala. The creative, moving way in which Maccioni and her production team “transplanted” vital aesthetic elements of La Famiglia was touching.
Entering guests passed a large wall, white tile with blue trim, covered with black and white family photos, just like the environs they dine in at the intimate La Famiglia.
It was heartwarming to see generations of Maccioni “famiglia” standing together in front of that wall, with Chef Alvaro’s widow, Letizia. She was front and center with her sons, Alfonso and Alessandro, her daughter Marietta with her partner Fabio, and their extended family members, including Marietta’s children Sidney and Amy, for a photograph.
“Alex” and his wife Lucila traveled from Brazil, while Alfonso and his wife Wendy flew from Australia, to honor the occasion.
The sides of the large food stations were also decorated to resemble La Famiglia’s white tile walls in a very creative way to bring the restaurant to the gala space. Large lemon trees shaded huge wheels of Reggiano Parmigiano and piles of poured Prosecco to wash down the passed gourmet hors d’oeuvres and culinary crudites.
A large, wide staircase rising at the back of the room would serve as the stage for Marietta to make her speech. Projected on the walls above and beside the staircase was La Famiglia’s “50 Anni” logo celebrating its 50th anniversary, and candles in glass cylinders lined each side of the steps.
The dramatic uplighting turned the museum into an elegant nightclub. Italian music, such as Ornella Vanoni’s classic song L’Appuntamento, filled the air and hearts of guests during the “mingling and mangia,” which went on all night.
Recreating the Restaurant with Food, Photos and People
Photo by Michael Patrick Shiels
La Famiglia has thrived for 50 years due, in large part, to its unwavering and continued dedication to nothing less than authentic, quality cuisine.
That devotion was noticeable even in the strolling menu for the large-scale gala. Seven types of formaggi Italiano were served: Grana Padano, Pecorino, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Stracciatella, Taleggio, and Mozzarella.
The Sott’olio was Carciofini (baby artichokes), and Pomodori Secchi (sun-dried tomatoes).For the Insalata, it was Italian bitter leaf salad with orange and pistachio, and Rocket salad with shaved radishes and Parmesan.
The bread selection included Grissini, Lingue, Taralli, Pane Guttiau, Focaccia, and Ciabatta. It was all served with Balsamic, Pesto, Truffle Honey, Red Onion Chutney, Fig Marmalade, Mostarda Chutney, Truffle Oil, Chilli Oil, and, of course, Olive Oil.
I was too nervous to eat. Therefore, I was preoccupied with the Prosecco to steel myself for my speech. And I was feasting on the fascinating conversations with La Famiglia’s vibrant gala guests.
Michael Davies, there with his wife Madeline, was an attorney. They were getting ready to spend part of the year in Spain, but for the moment were accompanied at the gala by their adult daughter, who was also a lawyer and a mother.
Mrs. Jane Rennocks told me she was leaving the next morning for Portugal to participate in a padel ball event in the Algarve. Later in the month, she and her husband, John, planned to journey to the Maldives for an extended stay.
Their group included two young, fun couples, including his son Charlie and his wife Lettice, and Harry Coe, son of British Olympic athlete Lord Sebastian Coe, and his girlfriend.
La Famiglia’s long-serving, spirited staffers, for this night, got to be served themselves and enjoy the hospitality they typically provide as smiling ambassadors of La Famiglia.
I laughed and chatted with the handsome Fabio, Kevin, Arapoa and Felipe. Mario wore a very stylish hat and was eager to share his enthusiasm.
I also met some of the back-of-the-house business managers for the first time, and I hope not the last.
Bravo and grazie mille to all of them!
My Time Has Come
Fortunately for me, the museum and gala were a very short distance from my hotel, Red Carnation’s cozy Egerton House, where I put on my all-white suit and Union Jack bow tie and practiced my lines one last time.
Marietta dazzled, wearing a gold lumiere pant suit, which I saw first when a team of production people took her and me through a brief rehearsal shortly before the doors opened.
Ninety minutes, and who knows how many glasses of Prosecco later, it was time for me to take the staircase stage and, with a wireless microphone, attain the attention of 500 most intriguing Londoners.
From under the dinosaur, and above the gathered, I began:
“Buena serra, tutti…
Rispetto
Salute!
Mi chiamo Michele Patrick Shiels. Io sono Americano. Piacere di conoscerti.
La pace sia con tutti voi. (That drew laughs.)
Tutti i passi che ho fatto nella mia vita mi hanno portato qui ora.
It’s not ‘tea time’ here in England, thanks to La Famiglia, it’s ‘Chianti time!’
Jolly Old London Town, in its history, had times when it needed the ‘stiff upper lip.’
Londoners presently live in a time where we are not always sure of what we can depend on. But in that world, for 50 years, we have had La Famiglia. The dependable comfort
and warmth of La Famiglia has saved each of us many times.
La Famiglia is always a ‘broad, sunlit upland.’ That’s because, as a young woman, Marietta Maccioni ‘braced herself for her duty’…so that ‘if we dine for 1,000 years, we will say La Famiglia has given us our finest hours.’
In Chelsea, the term ‘royal succession’…means Marietta Maccioni. And though she reigns, Marietta is too modest and too young to be considered a matriarch. So, through La Famiglia, she salutes her father: God Save the King; and Long Live the King’s legacy: Alvaro Maccioni, Princess Marietta, along with her Prince Charming Fabio Cozari, bestow generations with ‘La Dolce Vita’ in Chelsea…and, acoglienti, make us all feel like their ‘Famiglia.’ Tutti gentili, benvenuta, Marietta Maccioni:”
The Queen’s Speech
Marietta took the microphone and, on the staircase stage, in the spotlight, turned on her heart-light:
“It fills my heart to see all of you here tonight. Fifty years is a hell of a long time. I was only 11 when we started La Famiglia. Most of you here, over the years, have shared your most important moments with us: birthdays, engagements, weddings, anniversaries…divorces. For me, it’s always been an honor to have your parties at La Famiglia. I love it when you call me and say you want to have a gathering. I am there for you. And all the staff members here tonight are there for you, too.
This journey began when I was a young girl. I didn’t just grow up in this restaurant: I was shaped by it. Watching every detail, and most of all seeing what true hard work and dedication can create.
Back in 1975, the area of the restaurant, Chelsea, was very different. When the landlord handed the keys to my dad, he looked at him and said, ‘Good luck.’ On match days, the neighborhood literally felt like the ‘world’s end,’ with the shops boarded up because the fans were going to be walking down the street past the restaurant.
But it wasn’t luck that built La Famiglia…it was my dad’s relentless passion. His presence, seven days a week…with my brothers and my mom by his side every weekend. We didn’t have smartphones, so we sat there…looking at everybody. That is what we did.
From a little trattoria, he created the vibrant La Famiglia that we know today. I’m so proud of what he achieved, and I miss him deeply, and all my family does.
Photo by Michael Patrick Shiels
I must say, I don’t think I was my dad’s first choice when it came to running the restaurant. With two brothers, we all thought it was going to be them. But it fell to me.
(“You were the best choice,” one of her brothers interrupted, and the crowd, hearing him shout that, swooned.)
I do believe this is where I am meant to be. Twenty-one years ago, I came to work side-by-side with Dad. For the past 12, I carried on without him. Those early days were hard. I lost him, but my mom is here today: ‘Ciao, Mama!’ My mom was my Dad’s queen; everything was for her.
But I got on with it. I looked after her and the restaurant, with the support of my brothers, and all the staff who are in here.
I also want to thank my brothers and my sisters in law, Wendy and Lucila, we call them Brazilians and Aussies, but it’s okay because if I have something on my mind, it doesn’t matter what time, they are there for me. That is good enough for me. Thank you, boys!… I really hope that I have done justice to La Famiglia since Dad’s passing.
I want to thank my children, Amy and Sidney, who I love very much. Thank you for helping me and supporting me with the party. I have to say, though, both of them decided to get married within months of each other while I was planning this party, too. But I would not have changed anything.
To my staff, past and present, I still keep in contact with Gigi, who was my first manager at La Famiglia. Do you remember Gigi with the fuzzy hair? He’s now a grandfather and lives in Spain and wishes you all the best.
One last person I need to thank, he needs to come up here, Fabio. In front of everyone, I want to thank him because he is my absolute rock. I could not have done any of this without him, moaning behind me, collecting the money I am spending!
Here’s to 50 years of La Famiglia…and many, many more. See you all soon!”
Parting Gifts
Photo by Michael Patrick Shiels
The Maccioni family’s generosity didn’t stop until departing guests were presented with a gift bag of special La Famiglia collectors’ items: postcards of the most favored menu items;
Maccioni-labeled olive oil; a pretty La Famiglia kitchen towel; stickers commemorating the “Centi Anni” and the restaurant’s script logo; and a La Famiglia-logoed blue baseball cap.
Dressed in my white suit and Union Jack bow tie, I fell into a traditional black London cab for the short ride back to Egerton House Hotel. The cabbie observed my situation and saw all the laughing and smiling people toting gift bags and emerging, full of fun, down the walkway and out the gates of the still blue-lit museum.
“What was going on in there tonight?” he asked me.
I smiled and answered, “The same thing that’s been going on every night for 50
years…at La Famiglia.”
Read more of Michael Patrick’s work at The Travel Tattler and contact him at
MShiels@aol.com Order his book Travel Tattler – Less Than Torrid Tales at
https://amzn.to/3Qm9FjN
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