Slow Travel, Stunning Views: Exploring New Zealand by Rail

From Marlborough wine country to the Kaikōura coast, Great Journeys New Zealand offers a slower, richer way to experience the country by rail.

Traveling along the Pacific Coast on the South Island with Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand
Traveling along the Pacific Coast on the South Island with Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand

The train hugs the coastline so closely you half-expect the Pacific to reach up and tap the window. To the east, the ocean stretches to the horizon. To the west, the Kaikōura Ranges rise sharply, their peaks disappearing into a low grey sky.

My husband, Benjamin, and I are riding the Coastal Pacific in the Scenic Plus class, somewhere between Picton and Kaikōura, and I finally understand why so many people recommend exploring New Zealand by train.

A woman traveling on the Captivating Coast Signature Tour by Great Journeys New Zealand
Traveling along the coast by train with Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo by Great Journeys New Zealand

Our journey is part of a six-day guided trip with Great Journeys New Zealand. Their Signature Captivating Coast tour travels from Wellington to Christchurch by ferry and scenic train, with stops along the way that take you well off the tourist track.

It’s the kind of trip that reminds you why slow travel matters. When you don’t have to rush between airports or navigate unfamiliar roads, you can take time to really experience the country.

The Signature tours are fully guided and include transport, handpicked hotels, select meals, and experiences at every stop, with a tour director who stays with the group for the entire journey. Which means the only decision you need to make is when to go.

Starting in Wellington

Cable Car in Wellington, New Zealand
The iconic cable car in Wellington, New Zealand. Photo by iStock/Robert CHG

Our tour began in Wellington, New Zealand’s compact capital at the southern tip of the North Island. It’s a city that rewards a day of wandering. We rode the historic cable car up to the Wellington Botanic Garden, where native pōhutukawa trees and sweeping views over the harbor gave us our first real sense of the country. The waterfront, lined with galleries and cafes, is reason enough to arrive a day early.

Our Great Journeys New Zealand tour director, Emily, served as guide, narrator, and local expert for the full journey. She welcomed the group at the InterContinental Wellington for a briefing and welcome dinner that evening.

Across the Cook Strait

The Interisland ferry in New Zealand runs between the North and South Islands. Photo by Janna Graber
The Interisland ferry in New Zealand runs between the North and South Islands. Photo by Janna Graber

The next morning, we boarded the Interislander ferry for the crossing from Wellington on the North Island to Picton on the South Island. Cook Strait can be rough, but on a calm day, the 3.5-hour ride into the Marlborough Sounds is a journey in itself. Thankfully, our journey was very smooth.

Green hills drop straight into the water, the channels narrow, and by the time you reach Picton, you already feel like you’re somewhere different. We had a nice breakfast on board and barely noticed the time pass.

Marlborough Wine Country

Allan Scott Family Winemakers. Photo courtesy Allan Scott Winemakers
Allan Scott Family Winemakers. Photo courtesy Allan Scott Winemakers

From Picton, the afternoon turned into a full celebration of Marlborough wine country. New Zealand is known for its excellent wines, and Marlborough is a sun-drenched region in the northeastern corner of the South Island and the country’s largest wine-growing area, especially famous for its Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine tasting at Spa Valley Wines. Photo courtesy Spy Valley Wines
Wine tasting at Spa Valley Wines. Photo courtesy Spy Valley Wines

We stopped at Spy Valley Wines, one of New Zealand’s premier family-owned wineries, for a tasting before sitting down to a proper lunch at Allan Scott Family Winemakers, a family estate producing wines here since 1990. We ate slowly, with a glass in hand, surrounded by vines. It was a good afternoon.

A Hidden Gem in the Marlborough Sounds

Mike and Antonia Radon of Aarapawa Blue Pearls at their beautiful home on the remote island of Arapaoa in the Marlborough Sounds
Mike and Antonia Radon of Aarapawa Blue Pearls at their beautiful home on the remote island of Arapaoa in the Marlborough Sounds. Photo by Janna Graber

From Picton, we took a water taxi deep into the Marlborough Sounds to Arapaoa Island, where Mike and Antonia Radon of Arapawa Blue Pearls have built a unique life.

Mike, an American, met Antonia, a New Zealander, through a shared passion for diving and for pāua, the native abalone prized across New Zealand. They found this remote corner of the sounds and never left.

Twenty-eight years later, they’ve raised their family here, farming pāua and sharing one of the jewelry world’s best-kept secrets.

Pāua produce blue pearls with iridescent rainbow overtones, some of the rarest gems on the planet. Over Antonia’s homemade sweet treats, the family told their story.

Their son Jacob walked us through how the pāua are grown and cared for. It was a warm, personal visit, the kind you don’t stumble into when you’re moving too fast.

We ended the day with a very comfortable overnight stay at the Scenic Hotel Marlborough in Blenheim.

Aboard the Coastal Pacific

Train Travel in New Zealand with Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo by Benjamin Rader
Exploring New Zealand by Rail with Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo by Benjamin Rader

The following morning, we boarded the Coastal Pacific for the train journey south. The Coastal Pacific runs between Picton and Christchurch, and the stretch hugging the Kaikōura coast is the one that stops conversations.

The Scenic Plus class offers wide, reclining seats and panoramic windows designed for the views outside. Train travel in New Zealand means scenic views are often just around the bend. There’s an open-air viewing carriage (bring a jacket) where you can lean into the wind and watch the ocean rush past.

Train travel in New Zealand. Open-air viewing car aboard Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo by Benjamin Rader
Open-air viewing car aboard Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo by Benjamin Rader

The onboard café serves New Zealand wines, beer, and food, but the Scenic Plus class is elevated. On the first leg of our rail journey, we were served freshly baked cinnamon rolls and fruit, followed by a hot breakfast of toasted focaccia with Manuka-smoked salmon, soft-poached eggs and hollandaise.

Lunch was Canterbury lamb with citrus, a watercress salad with tangy vinaigrette, and a salted toffee pudding to finish, all paired with local wines. All of it was served on white linen tablecloths with attentive service.

Customers enjoying the view while dining aboard Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand
Travelers enjoying the view while dining aboard Great Journeys New Zealand. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand

We arrived in Kaikōura, a small coastal town caught between mountains and sea, best known for its marine wildlife. We had heard wonderful things, so we were excited to explore it the next day.

Sudima Kaikōura Hotel
The view from Sudima Kaikōura Hotel on a clear day. Photo courtesy Sudima Kaikōura Hotel

The Sudima Kaikōura Hotel sits right on the esplanade, and it’s said that waking up to that view, ocean on one side and the Seaward Kaikōura Range on the other, is something worth traveling a long way for.

Dolphins at Dawn, and a Reminder That Nature Runs the Show

Kaikoura on a clear day. Photo by iStock/travellinglight
Kaikoura on a clear day. Photo by iStock/travellinglight

The next morning was supposed to open with Kaikōura’s famous Dolphin Encounter, where dusky dolphins gather in the bay, and the boats get close enough to hear them breathe. Guests can watch from the deck or upgrade to swim with them.

On a clear morning, it’s one of those experiences people come back from New Zealand talking about. Unfortunately for us, a storm rolled in overnight, and the sea was too rough for boats to go out.

Though we were sad to miss the dolphins, it was a reminder of what makes Kaikōura worth visiting: a beautiful place run by nature. The dolphins were out there somewhere, doing what they always do. The Kaikōura Ranges stood in the mist. The cafes on the esplanade were warm and full of other travelers swapping stories. It was still a great day to be in New Zealand.

Heading to Christchurch

The tram on New Regent Street in Christchurch, New Zealand. Photo by iStock/travellinglight
The tram on New Regent Street in Christchurch, New Zealand. Photo by iStock/travellinglight

From Kaikōura, the journey continues by rail south into Christchurch, arriving at the Fable Christchurch, a beautifully restored heritage hotel on Gloucester Street. Christchurch has literally risen from the rubble since the 2011 earthquakes, and what’s emerged is a city worth exploring.

We spent the day on the hop-on hop-off tram, which winds through the rebuilt city center and makes it easy to stop wherever something catches your eye.

Christchurch is filled with incredible street art, making the city an open-air gallery. Photo by Benjamin Rader
Christchurch is filled with incredible street art, making the city an open-air gallery. Photo by Benjamin Rader

The city is an outdoor gallery. Large-scale wall art by some of New Zealand’s top artists covers buildings throughout the center, and the tram is a great way to find it.

We also found excellent bookshops, good restaurants, and stopped at Waffle Haus on New Regent Street for real fruit ice cream, New Zealand-style.

New Zealand-style ice cream (real fruit ice cream) on New Regent Street in Christchurch. Photo by Benjamin Rader
New Zealand-style ice cream (real fruit ice cream) on New Regent Street in Christchurch. Photo by Benjamin Rader

We came home with merino wool sweaters too — the kind of soft, warm, only-in-New-Zealand purchase you don’t regret. The Captivating Coast tour ends here on day six with a farewell breakfast, though it’s worth staying an extra day.

What Sets the Signature Tours Apart

Great Journeys New Zealand Signature Tours include special experiences, such as our delicious lunch at Allan Scott Family Winery. Photo by Benjamin Rader
Great Journeys New Zealand Signature Tours include special experiences, such as our delicious lunch at Allan Scott Family Winery. Photo by Benjamin Rader

What makes Great Journeys New Zealand a good bet? Their Signature Tours do all the planning for you, so all you have to do is enjoy the trip. Excellent hotels are chosen for location and quality: the InterContinental in Wellington, the Scenic Hotel Marlborough in Blenheim, the Sudima in Kaikōura, and the Fable in Christchurch.

All transfers between hotels, stations, and piers are included. Meals are a mix of special group dinners and lunches, with free evenings where Emily pointed us toward the best local options. Dietary requirements are handled with advance notice.

Having Emily with us for the full six days, someone who knew the history, the landscape, and the best place to eat in every town, made the whole trip feel different from anything you’d put together on your own.

Other Signature Tours

Great Journeys New Zealand near Springfield. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand
Great Journeys New Zealand near Springfield. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand

For travelers who want more of New Zealand, Great Journeys New Zealand offers a range of small-group guided tours that connect the country’s iconic train routes, with stops across both islands.

Spectacular South

The Spectacular South (11 days, Wellington to Queenstown) picks up where the Captivating Coast leaves off, adding the legendary TranzAlpine crossing through the Southern Alps to Greymouth, a greenstone experience in Hokitika, a visit to the West Coast Wildlife Center to see kiwi, and a Milford Sound cruise. It’s a fuller look at the South Island.

Inspirational Alps

The Inspirational Alps (7 days, Christchurch to Queenstown) is a good choice for travelers who want to focus on the South Island’s dramatic interior. Starting in Christchurch, the tour crosses the Southern Alps on the TranzAlpine to Greymouth, then heads down the West Coast with a custom greenstone experience, and a Milford Sound cruise before ending in Queenstown.

Inspiring North Island

The Northern Explorer in front of Ruapehu. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand
The Northern Explorer in front of Ruapehu. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand

The Inspiring North Island (8 days, Auckland to Wellington) covers the volcanic landscapes, Māori culture, and coastal scenery of the North Island, with stops at the Waitomo Glowworm Caves, a tea ceremony at Zealong Estate, and a sunset dinner cruise on Raglan Harbor.

Cities and Seas (12 Days)

Auckland's gleaming skyline overlooks the harbor that earned New Zealand's largest city its nickname: the City of Sails. Photo from Canva
Auckland’s gleaming skyline overlooks the harbor that earned New Zealand’s largest city its nickname: the City of Sails. Photo from Canva

Cities and Seas (12 days, Auckland to Christchurch) combines the best of both islands, traveling from Auckland through the North Island’s volcanic landscapes and glowworm caves before crossing Cook Strait and following the Coastal Pacific south through Marlborough wine country and the Kaikōura coast to Christchurch.

New Zealand Up Close (17 Days)

tranzalpine-crossing-the-waimakariri-river
The TransAlpine crosses the Waimakariri River. Photo courtesy Great Journeys New Zealand

The most ambitious option is New Zealand Up Close (17 days, Auckland to Queenstown), which takes in all three of the country’s iconic train routes: the Northern Explorer, the Coastal Pacific, and the TranzAlpine, in one journey from top to bottom.

The journey ends in Queenstown with a day trip to Milford Sound and a cruise. Some departures travel via Rotorua, adding a Redwoods treetop walk and a private cultural evening with Te Pa Tū. If you have the time, it’s the most complete way to see New Zealand.

If You Go

The Signature Captivating Coast tour that I took runs from Wellington to Christchurch over six days, with five nights at hotels included. Departures run from September through April.

Book at greatjourneysnz.com or reach the Travel Center at travelcentre@greatjourneysnz.com.

October/November and March/April are good times to go, with solid weather and fewer crowds. December through February is peak season and fills fast, so book ahead.

Pack layers. New Zealand weather moves quickly, and the open-air carriage is worth using even when it’s brisk.

Personal headphones are handy for the at-seat audio commentary. Each traveler can bring one 23kg checked bag and one 7kg carry-on; luggage is stored separately on the trains and handled by the crew. Travel insurance is strongly recommended.

Solo travelers are well accommodated. The tour pairs guests under a Guaranteed Share option, or a single supplement is available for a private room.

Janna Graber
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