Phnom Penh in 48 Hours: Royal Palace, Mekong Sunsets and Khmer Cuisine

When I decided to visit Cambodia this January, the main attraction for me was seeing the famous Angkor Wat temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site and arguably one of the world’s most important historical sites.

However, beyond Angkor Wat, I also wanted to experience more of local Cambodian daily life, and learn about its modern history too. That’s why instead of heading straight for Siem Reap, I flew into the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh for 48 hours of temples, night markets and culture.

First Impressions of Phnom Penh

Situated along the scenic Mekong River, Phnom Penh is a bustling and modern metropolis with a population of roughly 1.5 million people who speak Khmer as the main language.

Even in January, the weather is hot and rarely dips below 25 degrees, giving it a tropical vibe that reminds me of Bangkok. The local Cambodian people I met were very friendly, and I never felt unsafe, despite traveling as a solo woman.

Phnom Penh is a city of contrasts: ultramodern luxury skyscrapers, department stores and hotels can be found next to stunning gold Buddhist temples and ancient palaces.

On the roads, you’ll see tuk-tuks weaving between sleek, expensive cars. In the evenings, locals gather along the riverside embankment in the cooling dusk to socialise and peruse stalls selling everything from grilled squid to rubber slippers.

Understanding Modern Cambodia

While Siem Reap and Angkor Wat are the best places to learn about Cambodia’s ancient history, Phnom Penh is the best place to understand the country’s complicated, diverse present and see how it rebuilt itself after the destruction caused by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s.

It’s also easy to get a 5-hour bus up to Siem Reap afterwards, so doing both places in Cambodia is possible even if you’re short on time. While you could spend weeks in Phnom Penh exploring its many secrets, I think 48 hours is enough to see the main highlights.

Here’s an itinerary that will help you make the most of your time there.

Day 1: Cafes, Palaces, Sunset

Start Your Day Experiencing Phnom Penh’s Cafe Culture.

Start your morning with coffee and breakfast at a local cafe. I absolutely love the cafes in Cambodia (and Asia in general). They have so much variety compared to Europe and are often beautiful, light and airy on the inside.

I highly recommend Brown Roastery, a chain cafe you’ll find all over the city that serves amazing herby eggs and a coconut latte to die for.

There’s also Backyard Cafe, which is a gorgeous vegan- and veggie-friendly cafe with amazing breakfast options and chill-out spots.

Explore the Royal Palace and Buddhist Temples

Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace is conveniently located near the Riverside area, and takes around an hour to look around.

You can only go inside one of the large Buddhist temples, however the architecture of all the palace buildings from the outside is stunning and reminiscent of Bangkok’s Royal Palace.

I’m a big fan of the intricate gold-gilded patterns and elegant curved roof eaves that make Cambodian palace architecture unique.

Take a Sunset Cruise Along the Mekong River

After a day of walking around, relax on a boat cruise of the Mekong River with a cold glass of beer and enjoy watching the sunset over the city skyline.

While you can book your boat tour beforehand on sites such as Get Your Guide, it’s also very easy just to turn up to one of the many boat piers along the riverside promenade at 4:45 p.m. and buy a ticket on the spot.

Most of the sunset cruises leave at 5 p.m., so get there at least 15 minutes before if you plan to do this. Boat cruises range in price from $5 to $15, depending on the type of boat and how long the cruise is.

Visit Chaktomuk Walking Street

On the weekends, the riverside promenade turns into a vibrant walking street.

Like other night markets in Asia, it’s a bustling, crowded pedestrianised street lined with stalls selling everything from Cambodian street food to beautiful jewellery, designer clothes, cheap flip-flops and everything in between.

For a real taste of Cambodia, this is where the magic happens. You can get some good bargains on Cambodian handcrafted souvenirs. Snack on Khmer palm cakes. Witness some Cambodian traditional dance, or try some meat charcoal-grilled in front of you.

It’s a joyful occasion for friends, couples and families. The atmosphere of the night market is full of life. Think loud music, neon lights, huge crowds and the delicious aroma of grilled meat in the air.

Relax With a Massage

One of my favourite things to do in Asia is get a massage. They’re cheap, very professional, and I always come out feeling amazing afterwards.

I found an absolutely gorgeous luxury spa called Bodia Spa Riverside on a side street just off the main riverside promenade. It’s a chain spa, so you can find it all over the city too.

They offer a range of massages, and the spa itself was so beautiful and relaxing. I also got free tea before and after my delightful aromatherapy foot massage. 1,000% recommend.

Day 2: History and Views

Learn About the Khmer Rouge and Cambodia’s Dark History

Cambodia is a beautiful country filled with things to admire. However, I believe that to truly understand a place, it’s also important to understand the darker parts of its history that shaped it.

For Cambodia, that is the legacy of the Khmer Rouge’s brutal authoritarian regime during the 1970s.

The Khmer Rouge was the communist party that ruled Cambodia between 1975–79, and killed around 2 million people. That’s 25% of Cambodia’s population at the time.

You can now visit the killing fields where the Khmer Rouge killed many of its victims and buried them in mass graves, as well as an old prison-turned-museum where they kept and tortured many of their political prisoners.

It’s easy to visit both of these places in the same day and you can do it alone by hailing tuktuks yourself.

It’s easy to visit both of these places in the same day, and you can do it alone by hailing tuk-tuks yourself. However, I highly recommend doing this as part of an organised tour. They’re affordable, and you’ll get a guide who can explain far more about the history than you’d get on your own.

A few options depending on your travel style: the group shuttle tour on Klook runs around $15 with hotel pickup and multilingual audio guides at both sites; the GetYourGuide half-day tour features guide Siphat, whose own family history from the Khmer Rouge era adds a rare personal dimension; and Viator’s most-reviewed option is a well-organized group tour with 2,300+ reviews. All three cover both Choeung Ek and S-21 in around four to five hours.

Bear in mind that this is a very dark period of history and seeing these sites in person is an emotional, visceral experience. Some of the areas and photos on display are quite graphic (real photos of dead bodies, bone and teeth fragments of victims on display, etc.), so consider whether that’s something you’re mentally prepared for.

Visit Wat Phnom, a Temple on a Hill

After the heaviness of the tour, you can spend some time in nature by visiting Wat Phnom. This is a Buddhist temple built on a hill and a religious pagoda from the 14th century. The whole area is beautiful, serene and a nice break from bustling city life.

There’s a short walk up some stairs to reach it, and the entrance fee is $1. You can get some great views of the city from there, and there’s also a nice craft centre selling locally produced souvenirs that you can visit too.

Try Local Khmer Delicacies for Dinner

By now you’ve probably worked up an appetite, so it’s time for dinner. Visit a Khmer restaurant and try one of the local favourites like fish amok, a fragrant Cambodian fish curry with a unique mousse-like texture.

There’s also beef lok lak, a popular Cambodian stir-fried beef dish featuring pieces of beef marinated in soy sauce, oyster sauce and sugar, then seared in a pan.

You’ll find decent Khmer restaurants on every street, but my personal favourite was Le Prestige Cafe right next to the riverside.

Finish the Night With a Cocktail and a View

For a fun night out, a lot of tourists like to visit Bassac Lane, which is basically the party centre of Phnom Penh.

However, if, like me, you prefer a more chill experience with great views and great drinks, I recommend going for a rooftop bar instead. This is one of my favourite things to do in big Asian cities, which I think have some of the best sky bars in the world.

There are so many amazing sky bars in this city that you’ll have plenty of choice.

But here are a few I’d recommend: HighGround Sky Bar, Rooftop Skybox 4Rivers Hotel, Eclipse Sky Bar.

So, there’s my quick weekend itinerary if you only have 48 hours to spend in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. I hope it’s been helpful for your trip planning and that you enjoy your visit to this stunning country!

If you’re planning a trip to Cambodia, check out our Cambodia Travel Guide, where you’ll find a curated selection of articles to inspire you and help plan your trip.

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Author Bio: Annmarie Robin is a British writer currently living a semi-nomadic life with a home base in Bergen, Norway. She loves hiking misty mountaintops, exploring arctic landscapes and romanticising far-flung places. She writes about life in Norway and Nordic travel on her blog.

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